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Spit 6 - What frame to use?

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trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
Daniel, Lots of things you will see before you get through will be completely different than what you thought when it's finished.
Let me upgrade this, I like the better after market part, not that a direction isn't important, it's just human nature to change course on a building idea.
Your whole frame issue should be decided by which rear system you are going to use. You want the rotoflex, well, the GT6 hanging brackets are in the right place, the radiator mounts and engine towers are good to go.

The rear Spitfire will require all the front to be changed, most bolt on, except radiator mounts and overflow bottle bracket. The transfer of the GT6 engine towers along with that suspension and sway bar plus break lines, they come in from the front, Spitfire back of the tower.

Need to cut the Spitfire body at the tunnel for the starter to clear on the GT6 engine.

Think about that for a while, if you go rotoflex you will want to go CV joints later, well maybe not, what is the budget, not something you want to try on a shoe string wallet.
Another thing, how much of the parts you have will do as is, rebuilding a engine if not cheap even if you do all the labor.
I've done one of each and very time consuming and if you have body work, like mine did, Just want you to know what you are in for, but what a great car when finished. Triumph could have made a fortune if they had worked on this platform, would have give Datsun a run for the money.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

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Herald948 Avatar
Herald948 Andrew Mace
East Nassau, upstate NY, USA   USA
In reply to # 1594767 by spitfire50
In reply to # 1594685 by tmpass Pretty sure the only difference between those two FRAMES are the front bonnet hinge mounts, so the bonnets will not interchange between the two. Other than that, all the other components will fit just fine..

Tim,
There is more than that. As has been pointed out the radiator mount is different. The rear suspension for the GT6 is Rotoflex, so there are wishbone mounts on that frame that aren't on the Spitfire. frame. And along with the rear suspension the hand brake brackets aren't frame mounted on the Rotoflex cars, so they need to be moved from the GT6 shell to the Spitfire body.
As far as bonnets go square tail and round tail bodies and bonnets have been mismatched before. It looks odd to our eyes, but it works.
All the best,
Paul
All correct, but I think you missed my point, which I may not have stated all that well (not wishing to go into excruciating detail about other changes; they've been covered so many times before -- "search" is everybody's friend winking smiley ). I was just noting that a chassis can be converted to accept either bonnet (and related items such as bumper, valences, etc.) by changing that front crossmember, or at least the bonnet pivots on same.

smileys with beer



http://www.fairpoint.net/~herald948/database/

jagwar72 Avatar
jagwar72 Silver Member John Hanlin
Weaverville, NC, USA   USA
Why can't you just buy a GT6 and replace the body shell with one from a Spitfire of the same year? That would avoid all the mods for engine, transmission, brakes, axles, hood, etc., etc., etc.

John

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trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
John, If it was a '73 with the swing axle the it would work fine. The rotoflex brings into play the hand brake bracket, shock mounts (not on the inter fender on a Spitfire), brake lines and a couple of other small things, gas tank comes to mind if you didn't get the whole car.
Now your big problem, finding a '73, not that many around that someone is will to give up for this project.
Oh, which harness are you going to use, the Spitfire will work just a little short in the Alternator, Temperature Sensor and Distributor wires. The Spitfire would be better if you are transferring the dash and all the wiring under the dash, that way just the front harness you could throw over the windshield when you bring the body over.
Not rocket science but little bits and pieces that need to be sorted out.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-02-08 02:15 PM by trrdster.

spitlist Avatar
spitlist Joe Curry
Sahuarita, Sahuarita, AZ, USA   USA
In reply to # 1594821 by spitfire50
In reply to # 1594786 by spitlist
The important part is making sure that the distance from the hinge point to some magic place on the frame is maintained. Otherwise, it is going to be very difficult to get the latches and door spacing to line up. Probably the best place to measure that is to the front of the forward outrigger. Measure the original frame you remove that front piece from before you cut and then measure again carefully before welding it to the new frame.

Hi,
Diagonal measurements are just as important as ones along the two sides. They help make sure the work is centered and square. Don't neglect the vertical dimensions.
All the best,
Paul

Indeed, but it is much easier to get that measurement correct since you have the cut marks to match up with the frame.

jagwar72 Avatar
jagwar72 Silver Member John Hanlin
Weaverville, NC, USA   USA
Wayne - Would the same issues hold true for an earlier Spit and GT6.......let's say 1968 models?

I'm in Weaverville, NC. Guess I need to cruise over and see you sometime after I get my GT6 back on the road.

trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
John, why wait, come on and we can cuss and discuss what is wrong with us. LOL
We can look at mine and the other one with the rotoflex.
The '73 GT6 frame would only require the transfer of the body, your hood and rear suspension is all in place. The hardest part, pulling the wiring harness out of the GT6 or extending the the wires for a couple of things from the Spitfire one. Much easier.
The very early GT6 could work, but how many of those in a pair are you going to find.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

spitlist Avatar
spitlist Joe Curry
Sahuarita, Sahuarita, AZ, USA   USA
In reply to # 1595229 by jagwar72 Wayne - Would the same issues hold true for an earlier Spit and GT6.......let's say 1968 models?

I'm in Weaverville, NC. Guess I need to cruise over and see you sometime after I get my GT6 back on the road.

My black Spit (Tiny Tim) consists of a Mk1 body mated to a 73 GT6 rotoflex chassis. Initially it was not a problem since the car was originally built as an autocrosser and the fiberglass bonnet was a "lift-off" affair. So I didn't take the time to do any proper measurements to fit the bonnet hinges where they should be.

Later on, when I decided to convert it back to street trim and mount the bonnet in its original hinging configuration, I discovered that I needed to cut the front piece off again and reposition it so that the thing hinged properly and achieved a proper alignment.

The only thing that I had to consider in using the MK3 GT6 frame was the location of the hinges since everything on the rest of the frame (except the specific rotoflex bits) is the same as the Mk1 Spit frame.

Joe


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Mgro1959 Rob M
Surrey, BC, Canada   CAN
Later spit frame is different and more suceptable to rust with the frame extensions. Use Gt6 frame. Motor mounts are set up for the gt6 engine and body which is same as spit.It is pretty much bolt on body to frame. You will need the GT6 hood to allow for engine clearance or mod your spit hood. Goodluck. Thanks Rob.

savgun Daniel Schwartz
PEARL RIVER, LA, USA   USA
I have both frames but wanted to use the Spitfire frame to avoid having to replace the cossmember an hinge points. I have a Spitfire bonnet and a power bulge from a 72 GT6 and I also have a GT6 bonnet.

Just trying to do as little work as possible! If going with the GT6 will prevent having to cut up parts and reweld on the Spitfire frame then so be it. But I still will need to cut up the body foe the hand brake.

Mgro1959 Rob M
Surrey, BC, Canada   CAN
Hand brake should be same is it not. My friend did a few of these conversions. The GT6 +bonnet is nicer because of the louvering on it. Would use same mounting as 69 spit hood I believe.

spitfire50 Avatar
spitfire50 Paul Mugford
Rochester, N.H., USA   USA
In reply to # 1595381 by Mgro1959 Hand brake should be same is it not. My friend did a few of these conversions. The GT6 +bonnet is nicer because of the louvering on it. Would use same mounting as 69 spit hood I believe.

Rob,
Rotoflex GT6 hand brake has the cable guides welded to the body. All Spitfires and other GT6s have them on the frame. If you use Rotoflex suspension you need the body mounted cable guides. The different geometry of the suspension forces the cable run change.
All the best,
Paul

trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
I was lucky to have two rusted out GT6's, but one was bad and almost went with a encased pulley like on the weight lifting machines. Rather than cut up a good body.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

savgun Daniel Schwartz
PEARL RIVER, LA, USA   USA
Another reason why I wanted to use the Spitfire frame! I knew that it was not going to be easy, but I just wanted to do it right. I have the parts and the resources to get the job done but my time is another story. When I get started I don't want to backtrack because I did something that doesn't work.

In reply to # 1595414 by spitfire50
In reply to # 1595381 by Mgro1959 Hand brake should be same is it not. My friend did a few of these conversions. The GT6 +bonnet is nicer because of the louvering on it. Would use same mounting as 69 spit hood I believe.

Rob,
Rotoflex GT6 hand brake has the cable guides welded to the body. All Spitfires and other GT6s have them on the frame. If you use Rotoflex suspension you need the body mounted cable guides. The different geometry of the suspension forces the cable run change.
All the best,
Paul

Mgro1959 Rob M
Surrey, BC, Canada   CAN
You should try to save complete roof clip on rusted GT6. Make a coupe hardtop.

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