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Front suspension camber

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Charlie Bravo Avatar
Charlie Bravo Carlos Mesa
Canton, CT, USA   USA
Hello everyone,

I recently finished bushings, trunion, and ball joints. now the wheels seem to have positive camber. the a arms only had one shim before rebuild. bushings were badly worn. i have brand new tires. the old tires wore on outer edge. Is there something i'm missing?

Thanks

CB

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Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, BC, Canada   CAN
Push the car back and forth a few times to settle the suspension.

Charlie Bravo Avatar
Charlie Bravo Carlos Mesa
Canton, CT, USA   USA
Thanks,

I drove the car down the street and came back. looks the same. Should I have torqued after wheels were on the ground? I do have shims i could add.

Thanks

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carChips Avatar
carChips Victor Harnish
Kelowna, BC, Canada   CAN
1933 MG Magnette
1973 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Chip"
1989 GMC Sierra 1500 "Bush Truck"
Let the tension off the A-arm bolts and bounce on it a little bit and then retighten bolts. If it doesn't settle down when you bounce it, you can drive it a bit before you tighten the bolts, they won't fly off.



'S all for now
Vic

Yellowhawk Valley Avatar
walla walla, WA, USA   USA
1969 Triumph Spitfire "Walla Walla"
1969 Triumph Spitfire "Portland"
1972 Triumph Spitfire MkIV "Spokane"
1975 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Dayton"    & more
How much positive? The stock setting is with some positive camber. (2 degrees positive with two up condition)
da



Dan Aycock
Walla Walla, Wa.
Yellowhawk Valley Spitfires
69, 69, 72, 75, 78, 79 Spitfires

Smithisretired Avatar
Smithisretired Michael Smith
Wells, ME, USA   USA
If you tightened the suspension bushings with the car off the ground, then you preloaded the bushings. As recommended above, loosen the fittings, set the car on the grond and then tighten them.

balloonfoot Avatar
balloonfoot Gold Member Lloyd Faust
Southlake, TX, USA   USA
All this talk about bushing preload is not going to solve the problem. Caster, camber, toe is all adjustable on your car. Go get a proper alignment done. You can't eyeball this. Bring a bunch of shims.

tapkaJohnD Avatar
tapkaJohnD John Davies
Lancaster, Lancashire, UK   GBR
Carlos,
you said, " the a arms only had one shim before rebuild." Are there any in now?
More shims>>more NEGATIVE camber.


You need more shims. A lot more. 2 degrees positive was for cross-ply tyres. I run my race Vitesse at 2.5 degrees negative, which might be excessive for a road car. Try neutral, Zero camber, and see how it goes.
John

Manana Avatar
Manana Steve Wten
Thornhill, ON, Canada   CAN
Carlos welcome to the forum.

Sounds like your car has been running positive camber for some time.

I agree that settling the car out first is a good idea, then a home alignment starting with camber. Do a search in this forum and on-line and you’ll see a number of ways to do it. Invariably someone here will chime in and write “take it to a shop” but if you’ve done the work you say you’d have no problems doing a very accurate job yourself (in over 20 years, including typical front end maintenance I’ve never taken mine in).

Sounds like you’ll be using some of those extra shims you have.

I’d target about 1 degree negative camber and about 1 degree toe in, but you should read about that as well..

Good luck with it.



Steve
http://stevew10.wix.com/spit16

clshore Carter Shore
Beverly Hills, FL, USA   USA
I use a free app called iHandyLevel on my iPhone.
It uses the sensors in the phone to give readings to tenth of a degree.
A straight piece of wood held against the top & bottom wheel rim edges, and camber measurements are a snap.
Toe in is easy using a steel tape measure, and a pair of push-pins stuck into tread blocks.
With pins sitting behind the wheel centerlines, measure under the car from pin to pin.
Roll forward, and measure again.
The difference is the toe setting.
(Do NOT forget to remove the pushpins!!)

About 1/16" toe-in (front measurement less than rear measurement) is reasonable, good steering feel, stable in corners and braking, good tire wear.

Smithisretired Avatar
Smithisretired Michael Smith
Wells, ME, USA   USA
In reply to # 1595829 by balloonfoot All this talk about bushing preload is not going to solve the problem. Caster, camber, toe is all adjustable on your car. Go get a proper alignment done. You can't eyeball this. Bring a bunch of shims.

You need to have the suspension properly assembled before you can start thinking about alignment.

JohnW63 John Williamson
Apple Valley, CA, USA   USA
Are the shims still available at the usual Triumph part suppliers ?



Home of the 1969 GT6+ MK II resurrection project
and a sorry looking 1968 GT6+ parts car trying to stay whole.

Manana Avatar
Manana Steve Wten
Thornhill, ON, Canada   CAN
In reply to # 1595906 by Smithisretired
In reply to # 1595829 by balloonfoot All this talk about bushing preload is not going to solve the problem. Caster, camber, toe is all adjustable on your car. Go get a proper alignment done. You can't eyeball this. Bring a bunch of shims.

You need to have the suspension properly assembled before you can start thinking about alignment.

Ummmmm ???? Seems to me he’s done that???? Maybe I missed something???



Steve
http://stevew10.wix.com/spit16

Smithisretired Avatar
Smithisretired Michael Smith
Wells, ME, USA   USA
In reply to # 1595907 by JohnW63 Are the shims still available at the usual Triumph part suppliers ?

Yes
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-122022

Charlie Bravo Avatar
Charlie Bravo Carlos Mesa
Canton, CT, USA   USA
Thanks for all the replies. Very Helpful.

Update: I took care of the camber by adding two additional shims. I borrowed my buddies tire rig. it does camber caster and toe. All seems good. I will take it to a shop that does alfas and brit cars. its about 30 min from my house. I will have them check it again.

CB

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