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Engine block paint

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SpiTazz72 Avatar
SpiTazz72 Bryan H
Magnolia, TX, USA   USA
I finally have all my parts on hand so I'm ready to start assembling my engine. The head and block have been cleaned of paint and oil by the machine shop and are ready to paint. I'm considering the POR15 engine enamel kit, a little pricey but all reviews seem to be good. Has anyone used the kit? I can degrease the machine oil off it with spray alcohol but the kit includes several cleaners and prep paints.

Any recommendations? I'm staying with gloss black for the color.

Thanks.

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Smithisretired Avatar
Smithisretired Michael Smith
Wells, ME, USA   USA
I've used regular old Rustoleum in the rattle can with reasonably okay results. I've primed it before spraying a couple or three coats of semi-gloss.

TriumphFan Avatar
TriumphFan Silver Member Jim S
Cumming, GA, USA   USA
1967 Triumph GT6 MkI "Cantankerous"
On the other engines I've done I've used rattle can engine paint. It does OK for a while but does not stand up to chemicals and tends to discolor with some cleaners. On my TR6 block I am using POR15 as well. My advice to you as someone who has used their products before is to follow the instructions to the letter. Check out You Tube for videos of people applying it.



"If you didn't build it, it's not really yours"

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SpiTazz72 Avatar
SpiTazz72 Bryan H
Magnolia, TX, USA   USA
And I also understand to be careful not to get any on your hands. The skin will wear off before the paint does. smiling smiley

carChips Avatar
carChips Victor Harnish
Kelowna, BC, Canada   CAN
1933 MG Magnette
1973 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Chip"
1989 GMC Sierra 1500 "Bush Truck"
VH high heat paint has worked well for me in the past.



'S all for now
Vic

Efp Avatar
Efp John Walsh
London, UK   GBR
I’ve heard the same things about POR: expensive especially when you add in all the priming products and processes they stipulate, and the many failures always get blamed on not carrying out all these processes.

I’ve used bog standard LAPS engine enamel before with fair success, but my last couple of blocks have also been done with VHT rattle cans and so far I’ve been very pleased. Nice range of colours too.

Thorough degreasing is of course a total prerequisite of any paint job and I do like PORs Metal Prep as an etch base.

F1000RACER Avatar
F1000RACER Platinum Member Gary H
Alpine, CA, USA   USA
In reply to # 1592587 by carChips VH high heat paint has worked well for me in the past.

I second the VHT, been using it for a few decades now. Holds up well and holds the gloss. If you use VHT don't primer it just direct to metal.

GH

SpiTazz72 Avatar
SpiTazz72 Bryan H
Magnolia, TX, USA   USA
Interesting, I would have thought a primer would help but maybe not. One POR video I watched said to plan your day so you can prime in the morning then top coat in the afternoon within the proper time window.
Thanks!
I've used VHT products on the suspension and it seemed ok.

F1000RACER Avatar
F1000RACER Platinum Member Gary H
Alpine, CA, USA   USA
In reply to # 1592627 by SpiTazz72 Interesting, I would have thought a primer would help but maybe not. One POR video I watched said to plan your day so you can prime in the morning then top coat in the afternoon within the proper time window.
Thanks!
I've used VHT products on the suspension and it seemed ok.

Nearly all primers aren't intended for elevated temperatures, maybe POR15 is. Whatever adhesion promotion from a primer is zilch with high temp. Best method is make sure the cast iron is as clean as you can get it. I end up using a half dozen cans of brake clean washing it down. Cast iron is by nature pretty rough so paint adhesion isn't usually an issue.

GH

brucejon Avatar
brucejon Gold Member Bruce Jones
Santa Cruz, CA, USA   USA
1960 Triumph TR3A
1963 Triumph TR3B "Tupperware TR3"
1969 Triumph Spitfire MkIII
1972 Triumph TR6
POR15 comes in black, and will UV fade. If you want to topcoat it in another color, with nonfading paint, you have to time it right to get adhesion. Or use a special tie coat primer, or let it fully harden then dull it with scotch brite pad or fine sandpaper.



60 TR3A (red), 62 TR3B project, 72 TR6, 69 Mk3 Spitfire EU setup
https://spitfiremk3.wordpress.com

SpiTazz72 Avatar
SpiTazz72 Bryan H
Magnolia, TX, USA   USA
I thought my block was clean when I dropped it off because I had sprayed it several times with degreaser before disassembling it. The machine shop cleaned it by baking or boiling it, I don't know but now I can see every grain of sand in the casting. I'm sure it still has a little machine oil on it so it still needs to be washed down and dried. I've think I've read through all the POR15 info and their kit has a degreaser, metal prep, and two enamel paints, one being the regular POR15 and the top coat being the high temp POR15. I'm no paint expert nor a chemist so I don't know if their anti-rust base coat is a true primer or not. I've read about the UV issues but don't think that will be a problem under the bonnet and the car will be in a garage most of the time.

Moving on the painting the frame or suspension parts it looks like a PO already painted the front part of the frame with POR15 - black. It's a pretty thick coating and no rust.

tapkaJohnD Avatar
tapkaJohnD John Davies
Lancaster, Lancashire, UK   GBR
Read the very, very small print on VHT paint tins. It says that all rust should be removed and the paint applied to bare metal. I'm sure it works very well when used like that, but who grinds, or blasts their engine block that clean? And unwise, before building the engine, as you will need to thoroughly reclean it afterwards, and spray it with WD-40 to stop it rusting, which would spoil the point of blasting it in the first place.

John

Jediscuba Avatar
Jediscuba Steven Spandorf
Southampton, NY, USA   USA
1963 Triumph Spitfire "Pussycat"
1970 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "PussyCat The 4th"
1972 Triumph GT6
1980 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Pussy Cat"
Bruce,
Personally, I don't think UV fade is a problem with an engine head or block which spends most of it's life under the umbrella
of a bonnet. That said, I did use Por 15 on my frame and then undercoated it with a marine polyurethane.

Steve
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

In reply to # 1592651 by brucejon POR15 comes in black, and will UV fade. If you want to topcoat it in another color, with nonfading paint, you have to time it right to get adhesion. Or use a special tie coat primer, or let it fully harden then dull it with scotch brite pad or fine sandpaper.

brucejon Avatar
brucejon Gold Member Bruce Jones
Santa Cruz, CA, USA   USA
1960 Triumph TR3A
1963 Triumph TR3B "Tupperware TR3"
1969 Triumph Spitfire MkIII
1972 Triumph TR6
In reply to # 1592703 by Jediscuba Bruce,
Personally, I don't think UV fade is a problem with an engine head or block which spends most of it's life under the umbrella
of a bonnet. That said, I did use Por 15 on my frame and then undercoated it with a marine polyurethane.

Steve
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

In reply to # 1592651 by brucejon POR15 comes in black, and will UV fade. If you want to topcoat it in another color, with nonfading paint, you have to time it right to get adhesion. Or use a special tie coat primer, or let it fully harden then dull it with scotch brite pad or fine sandpaper.

I mentioned how to paint over it if he wants a different color.



60 TR3A (red), 62 TR3B project, 72 TR6, 69 Mk3 Spitfire EU setup
https://spitfiremk3.wordpress.com

SpiTazz72 Avatar
SpiTazz72 Bryan H
Magnolia, TX, USA   USA
Funny thing is POR15 makes a Matte Clear Coat to apply over existing paint, patina or bare metal and has, or so they say, a very high resistance to UV fading or discoloring. They show it on an aluminum trailer in Australia.

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