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Base coat - clear coat

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bobstr3 Avatar
bobstr3 Silver Member Bob Holt
Apache Junction, Arizona, USA   USA
1960 Triumph TR3A
1973 Honda Street
2003 Nissan Sentra "Ole Yeller"
2004 Mini Cooper "MINIPRL"
I am getting closer to painting my 1960 Triumph TR3A. It has had all the rusted items removed and new sheet metal welded in, such as: inner and outer rocker panels, floor panels, wheel arch panels, drivers side front fender lower patch panel and other small rusted areas patched with various sizes of sheet metal. In the past, over the time period of 1971 through 1986, I have painted 5 cars: My TR3A 2x, my brother and I did his 1963 Ford Galaxy, a 1965 Ford Station Wagon, he and I did for one of our neighbors, a 1948 Pontiac 4 door turtle back and a 1973 Honda (first generation) Civic (the last 2 were sold after I finished them up). All of these were either Lacquer or Acrylic enamel. I have never painted a basecoat/clear coat finish before and this is what will be going on my TR3A. I have been educating myself on the nuances of this process and plan on painting it myself. I plan on having it ready to go to the 2017 Triumphfest.
A little over a year ago I had used my car trailer and parked it in the driveway. I got home late and I decided I would put it back into its normal storage location in the morning. TOO LATE!!, Mary backed out of the garage and hit the tongue area of the trailer and broke the passenger side rear tail light, pushed in the sheet metal around the tail light and ripped the plastic bumper in 2 places besides buckling it inwards on that same side.
It appears there is always a reason behind everything happening. I wanted to know how to paint base coat/clear coat and now I had the perfect opportunity to learn by doing. This repair was a little more in depth, than I was expecting. Mary had designed a decal and I installed it for her back in 2004, a few months after we bought it. After taking off the decal, the adhesive (probably the solvent that was used), had somehow melted down into the original clear coat and the clear coat had to be removed down to the base coat on both sides. I was really getting my education!!!! I repaired the plastic bumper, cut out the damaged sheet metal, hammer and dollied the good part back into shape, made a new piece of sheet metal and welded it back into place. This is not like painting a complete car that has been prepped for paint, there is the most important special requirement of color blending the new base coat/clear coat to the original paint, so the eye will not be able to tell where one area starts and the other ends.
So here is where I am at today with a finish date on her car by the end of next week, so I can get back on my TR3A and finish up the remaining minor body issues to get it prepped for painting.
Bob Holt

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bobstr3 Avatar
bobstr3 Silver Member Bob Holt
Apache Junction, Arizona, USA   USA
1960 Triumph TR3A
1973 Honda Street
2003 Nissan Sentra "Ole Yeller"
2004 Mini Cooper "MINIPRL"
Some additional photos


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bobstr3 Avatar
bobstr3 Silver Member Bob Holt
Apache Junction, Arizona, USA   USA
1960 Triumph TR3A
1973 Honda Street
2003 Nissan Sentra "Ole Yeller"
2004 Mini Cooper "MINIPRL"
I will post some additional photos after I get it all painted. Along with my observations and final comments on the experience of painting base coat/clear coat.

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MGB777 Avatar
MGB777 Tim Smith
Oregon, Illinois, USA   USA
1952 MG TD "The "Abbey"
1960 Triumph TR3A "Patch's"
1975 MG Midget 1500 "Little Bro"
1977 MG MGB "Big Brother"    & more
Holy Moly ,,,,,,, this is a good test for the Pepper white treatment to come next....... good for you for even taking on such a challenge.

You just never know when a trailer will jump out in your way ,,,,,,,,,, confused smiley

GTN Avatar
GTN Silver Member Gary J
At Large in, TN, USA   USA
1978 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "BKNBLK"
OUCH Bob, too bad. Say is Mary still around, may need a driver test. Good Luck GTN



Gary J at large...

bobstr3 Avatar
bobstr3 Silver Member Bob Holt
Apache Junction, Arizona, USA   USA
1960 Triumph TR3A
1973 Honda Street
2003 Nissan Sentra "Ole Yeller"
2004 Mini Cooper "MINIPRL"
It has been close to 40 years since I last painted like this. What an experience!. As I have gotten older, I have noticed on this project, my stamina has declined and my close up eye sight has also been declining. Reading glasses required! Any way, it has been a lot of effort to get to this point. I love doing my own work and it gives me great pleasure to see the fuits of my labor. I have a car lift in my shop and I thought, since I that;" Why not use it as a support system for a temporary paint booth".. It was used to spray the 2 part epoxy primer and the primer surfacer. However, after doing it this way, I was not pleased with the ease of use. It kept the over spray out of my shop (one of my important reasons) and it kept dirt off the car. So In the next step, I scrapped that idea and made a 2nd booth, which I will be using either today or tomorrow to finish the base coat/clear coat.. Here are a couple pictures of where I was and where I am at this morning.
More to come later. Thanks, Bob


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Born Loser Avatar
Born Loser Silver Member Matthew Taylor
Land O Lake, Florida, USA   USA
I just shot mine in the garage - no booth. I really like having the extra space, to hold the gun exactly right, and to worry less about "cloths and hose" hitting the finish. The color was dry by the time it hit the ground. The clear did mist up a bit, but I was painting the whole car - so when my eyes burned a little, I stopped and aired it out. Worked just fine for me.



Matthew
1960 Triumph TR3a
1970 Triumph Spitfire MK 3
2012 Mini Cooper SS Convertible

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bobstr3 Avatar
bobstr3 Silver Member Bob Holt
Apache Junction, Arizona, USA   USA
1960 Triumph TR3A
1973 Honda Street
2003 Nissan Sentra "Ole Yeller"
2004 Mini Cooper "MINIPRL"
Hi Mathew,

A very nice and well designed two-tone color scheme. My compliments to you. I would believe you get some; thumbs up, when you take it out!

I see you are from Florida and I would also think that you do not have much dust being blown about, which can affect your paint job. I live out in the desert of Arizona and whenever there is a wind, it picks up the dust from the dry desert soil and carries it all over the place. Here is a picture of what the general land scape looks like, so because of that, I need to have an enclosure to stop the infiltration of that dust. My wife is always dusting the house. Any small crack will allow the dust to come into the house.
When I was younger, I lived in KY and did all my painting outside under the roof of a car port. In Indiana and then Wisconsin, It was outside. Only once did I paint in my garage and I had paint over spray every where. I learned my lesson from that experience. However, I have listened to you on your experience shooting the base coat and clear coat. I particularly liked that the base coat was practically dry after it was shot onto your car and what was falling onto the floor. After I finish mine, I will compare my experience with yours. Thanks for your comments. Bob


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Born Loser Avatar
Born Loser Silver Member Matthew Taylor
Land O Lake, Florida, USA   USA
Bob. yup, I have humidity to deal with instead of dust. The hvlp guns, with today's paint just don't make the mess like they used to. But, that clear stays sticky for a bit - not sure how long out there, humidity plays a role, so I would think maybe 30 minutes for you. To help manage the dust, when I shot the clear, I started the prep work at 5 am - that included sweeping up the very clean floor, and wetting the concrete out in front of the drive (kept it wet all morning). Had the car done by about 6:30. Then stopped a neighbor from cranking up the lawn mower about 8. Was fairly hard at 10, rolled the doors up for the crowd that I had gathered.

I don't know what I would do with all the dust in Arizona - the clear is sticky! Good luck!



Matthew
1960 Triumph TR3a
1970 Triumph Spitfire MK 3
2012 Mini Cooper SS Convertible

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Az7fan Avatar
Az7fan Paul Dorman
Tempe, Arizona, USA   USA
Having my TR7 painted in San Tan valley. What you are doing is way above my pay grade...smileys with beer

bobstr3 Avatar
bobstr3 Silver Member Bob Holt
Apache Junction, Arizona, USA   USA
1960 Triumph TR3A
1973 Honda Street
2003 Nissan Sentra "Ole Yeller"
2004 Mini Cooper "MINIPRL"
Welll,,,,, I have finally finished painting my Wife's Mini Cooper. The temporary paint booth I made worked really well. I am very pleased with how well it kept out the dust and kept my garage from HAVING ANY OVER SPAY! There were a couple concerns, I had with the fan/exhaust system and the method to use, that would not cause any unsightly waves where the color blending was required.
In the first case, I was concerned about the fumes and paint dust going into my fan motor and possibly causing a fire or the motor getting gummed up with sticky paint dust. After making a set up to minimize or eliminate this, (I checked out my design after I finished painting) and I did not find any paint dust within the electric motor. Here is what I did: I took a 3" diameter PVC pipe (OD was 3 1/'2"winking smiley and cut an oblong hole in the center of it. Then I cut the bottom out of a plastic tub and fit it into the opening in the PVC pipe. I used Duct tape to hold the two together. (see pictures).Then I pushed the other end, which funneled outward, over the end of the fan motor and duct taped it onto the motor. This tube being hollow on both ends would pull in air from outside and behind the fan, which was not part of the exhaust stream of solvent/paint dust laden air. The inlet to the fan was attached to a 20" X 25" furnace filter and it captured the stay paint dust very effectively.

I will give more info in the next post. Thanks, Bob


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bobstr3 Avatar
bobstr3 Silver Member Bob Holt
Apache Junction, Arizona, USA   USA
1960 Triumph TR3A
1973 Honda Street
2003 Nissan Sentra "Ole Yeller"
2004 Mini Cooper "MINIPRL"
The second item I was concerned about was the doors of the car, that needed to be color blended. I felt, based on what I had read on several internet sites and from an experienced person from the Triumph club I belong to, that I needed to be careful of waviness in the color. This caused me to stand back and think this through, before just putting on the basecoat. I broke the door down into 5 sections and used making tape as my guide for each section.
The blending process I learned about, was to base coat the first section on each door, then base coat over the painted first section and continue on to the end of the second section. The remaining base coat, in the gun, had to be diluted by adding the same volume of clear. Then this diluted base was painted over the first and second sections, continuing on to the end of the 3rd section. After having sprayed this, that volume of paint in the gun was diluted again with the same volume of clear. Then this diluted base was sprayed over the first, second and third sections and continued spraying until the end of the fourth section. The last and fifth section would now only have clear over it. So to complete the color blending, the entire door was now sprayed with 2 coats of clear. The paint in the gun was poured out into a graduated mixing cup and diluted. The gun was cleaned and the diluted mixture was poured back into the cup of the gun.
To keep these vertical transitions consistent, without having noticeable waviness in the paint color. consistency or the length of each pass, I made a stand which held a flexible bungy cord that would hit my hand, at the end each spray pass of the section I was painting. It worked great and kept me from stopping too short or going too long with each pass of the gun. The wooden stand and the 5 gallon bucket, I set it on, were each wrapped in plastic to keep any stray dust out of the paint spray. I would move the stand to the next section so it would be used to stop my hand again. It was moved with each step.
I am sorry, I did not take any pictures of what it looked like at the end of each section, to show how straight the vertical paint line was. I was too involved in keeping track of what I had to do, that after it was all over, I realized I did not take any pictures.
This method worked great and I would highly recommend it to others who are doing color blending over a large area to make it all blend together without any noticeable areas to the eye. I will post some additional pictures after I take the car out of my temporary spray booth. Thanks, Bob


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bobstr3 Avatar
bobstr3 Silver Member Bob Holt
Apache Junction, Arizona, USA   USA
1960 Triumph TR3A
1973 Honda Street
2003 Nissan Sentra "Ole Yeller"
2004 Mini Cooper "MINIPRL"
On Friday, Nov 4th, I finished putting my Wife's 2004 Mini Cooper back together. I am very, very pleased with the final product. The experience of base/clear coat painting was well worth the time and effort. If you have never done the color blending, which I did on both doors, then I would highly recommend that you do your research and follow the directions on the base and the clear. The stand I made to stop my hand at the right times with each spray pass, really added to my success.

I would not hesitate to do this type of painting again now, if I had to do repairs on another car (Hopefully not on the Mini cooper).
I also was very pleased with the outcome of using the Eastwood spray product called; "Plastic Resurfacer Matte Black", to give back the original black coloring to many areas on the trim on the outside of the car, especially the drip rail around the roof. They were a dusty light gray color and now are black and look proper.

http://search.eastwood.com/search?w=eastwood%20plastic%20resurfacer

I wish everyone success on all their projects, thanks, Bob


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bobstr3 Avatar
bobstr3 Silver Member Bob Holt
Apache Junction, Arizona, USA   USA
1960 Triumph TR3A
1973 Honda Street
2003 Nissan Sentra "Ole Yeller"
2004 Mini Cooper "MINIPRL"
A Couple more pictures


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