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steering rack rebuild ?

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scigarzz Avatar
scigarzz steve c
cape coral, fl, USA   USA
ok, i got my rack out tonite with the help of my 12 yr old son, i am going to replace the boots and probably the ends

1) anything in particular i should watch for or adjust or measure while i have it out ?
2) does anyone know what the nunbers mean ? ( the years i can figure out )
3) do my rack ends look like i need to replace then...do rubber caps need to be over the ball joints
3) where is the best place to buy the ends and boots ?
4) will all purpose grease be ok when i rebuild ?

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Yellowhawk Valley Avatar
walla walla, washington, USA   USA
1969 Triumph Spitfire "Walla Walla"
1969 Triumph Spitfire "Portland"
1972 Triumph Spitfire MkIV "Spokane"
1975 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Dayton"    & more
Some of the vendors have a full rebuild kit that ocntains all the pieces you need, maybe even the tie-rod end pieces. In your second photo, in the swivel points there is a nylon piece that could be replaced and is in the kits. Under the bolt whee the ground strap etc locates there is also a nylong piece there that presses against the pinion to adjust its snugness to the rack. Pull it all apart and clean it.
Dan

twomanytriumphs Avatar
twomanytriumphs Gold Member Kyle Darby
Kelso, Washington, USA   USA
1965 Triumph TR4 "My Baby"
1966 Triumph 2000 MkI "Bessie"
1970 Triumph GT6+ (MkII) "The Princess"
1977 MG MGB
As much as I would love to rebuild a steering rack, I have never done it. I gave the last one away just to help clear the garage. I have swapped out the boots many times though. I have purchased them from BP Northwest and they are thick rubber. I once replaced a set with a cheap rubber and they split in just a couple of years. Call and ask about the quality. As for the tie rod ends, BP northwest again for the non greaseable kind, and TRF for the greasable tie rod ends. I would recommend paying a little more for the greaseable ones. Just remember when you remove the ends to count the rotations off, and then spin the new ones on the same amount. Gets your toe a little closer for the alignment. Good luck, Kyle.

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Yellowhawk Valley Avatar
walla walla, washington, USA   USA
1969 Triumph Spitfire "Walla Walla"
1969 Triumph Spitfire "Portland"
1972 Triumph Spitfire MkIV "Spokane"
1975 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Dayton"    & more
If you have a manual, and of them, to follow, doing the rebuild is very simple process, does not take a engineer to do it.The first one I did was the first one I did, and it was no problem at all. It worked very well when done.
dan

bdnuts Avatar
bdnuts Bruce Nelson
Minnesota, USA   USA
1979 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "REJUVN8R"
Steve, I bought the rebuild kit from The Roadster Factory and was happy with the quality of the parts. I used lots of advice from sites like this and always had a buddy I could call for advice. I did it along with a complete front end job, lowered springs, shocks, and the rest of the front end bits. I figured if I wanted to drive the car like a go-cart I needed a reliable front end. I also took a lot of pictures for reference along with rebuilding the brakes. Good Luck.

Bruce

spurs1canada Avatar
spurs1canada Silver Member Barry Hotspur
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada   CAN
1972 Triumph GT6 MkIII "Mellow Yellow"
1976 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Li'l Red"
I bought a new rack from VB,it went on quite well and was only $149 the parts for doing the repair seemed to be close to that.

scigarzz Avatar
scigarzz steve c
cape coral, fl, USA   USA
i just looked on vb and they have rebuilt racks for $119.00 !!! that sounds like a good deal to me.
also they have a "quick ratio rack" for the same price, "which reduces turns to steer your car" is that something that would work with our spitfires ? (page 111 in vb)
any past experiences out there with this type of rack ?

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carChips Avatar
carChips Victor Harnish
Kelowna, BC, Canada   CAN
1933 MG Magnette
1973 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Chip"
1989 GMC Sierra 1500 "Bush Truck"
I have a quick rack, not much input needed to steer the car. And this on a great handling car already, you can drive circles around every other car.



'S all for now
Vic

JOEVACS Avatar
JOEVACS Joe Carter
Hickory, NC, USA   USA
In reply to # 866287 by Yellowhawk Valley The first one I did was the first one I did, and it was no problem at all. It worked very well when done.

BRILLIANT ! grinning smiley

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tmpass Avatar
tmpass Tim P
Medway, MA, USA   USA
1970 Triumph GT6+ (MkII) "Capo"
1970 Triumph GT6+ (MkII) "Blue Oxide"
In reply to # 866319 by carChips I have a quick rack, not much input needed to steer the car. And this on a great handling car already, you can drive circles around every other car.

For $119, its almost not even worth the trouble of rebuilding one yourself, and you get an "upgrade" to boot. I may have to grab one of these..

Mark Jones Avatar
Close to Sarnia, Ontario, Canada   CAN
1995 MG MGF "Barney"
1996 Land Rover Discovery
Rebuild the original, it is of better quality than a new rack.





MOWOG Garage serving the needs of all Post Abingdon MG owners in Lambton Co. since 2011.

spitfire50 Avatar
spitfire50 Paul Mugford
Rochester, N.H., USA   USA
Hi,
If you decide to get a new rack whether normal or quick keep your old one for rebuilding. the new ones aren't as easily rebuilt, and where the parts are different they aren't available.
All the best,
Paul

Catfish Phil Avatar
Catfish Phil Phillip Colwart
Hammond, LA, USA   USA
Another vote for replacing the old rack with a new one. I bought the VB quick ratio rack - so fast and easy to replace, and there is absolutely no play in the rack. $119. I really didn't notice a faster turn/fewer turns from rack to rack, but steering is now so tight and precise.

I had replaced the inner tie rods and nylon cups and adjusted the end play on my original rack but still had lots of floating around on the road. And this is with solid rack mounts. It ws just so easy to replace the rack with a new unit. The original unit and a parts car rack are both in the attic "just in case." Works for me!

6021 gary f
topsfield, MA, USA   USA
Group:
I have a simple question on a Spit rack rebuild.
The pinion input shaft has a 1/8" dia. pin driven into the housing.
How is the pinion pulled with the pin in place. I tried and it wouldn't move.
Is the pin supposed to be drilled out to remove the pinion and bearings.
Regards: Gary

Dickie B Avatar
Dickie B Dickie Brewer
Clover, South Carolina, USA   USA
1973 Triumph Spitfire MkIV "Rose"
1982 Chevrolet Corvette "Buddy"
1991 BMW 850i "Rocket"
2005 Nissan Frontier V6 "NIZMO"
I think you will have more money and time into something that even rebuilt, will not serve as well as a new one. And at <$150, why bother with the rebuild.

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