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What Did You Do To Your Spitfire or GT6 today??

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trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
Shane, what ever it takes to make that arm set on the upright flat. If not, you may run into trouble getting the tie rod end to have clearance on the brake rotor.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

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Wolfcreek Steve Steve P
Central, WI, USA   USA
I removed my brake dust covers and had to add washers as shims between steering arm and upright, but don't remember exactly what interfered.

carChips Avatar
carChips Victor Harnish
Kelowna, BC, Canada   CAN
1933 MG Magnette
1973 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Chip"
1989 GMC Sierra 1500 "Bush Truck"
Ahhh, the Blue Hands Group.



'S all for now
Vic

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byakk0 Avatar
byakk0 Hazen Wardle
Boise, ID, USA   USA
Great idea but the only problem with using taps is the possibility of removing bits of the threads thereby weakening then
A better idea is using thread chasers, basically the same thing but with much less chance of cutting into the threads. I just make my own with a spare bolt. Cut a groove into it with a cut off wheel in your die grinder or Dremel. Works like a charm, especially in a pinch.

In reply to # 1504030 by trrdster Shane, when you get the frame back, be sure and run a tap into all the body mounting holes. That powder coating is hard and fills them up. Most are 3/8 20 and 5/16 20 on the big ones at the back.
Might want to check that size, might be 24 thread, been a while.



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~Hazen.

Yellowhawk Valley Avatar
walla walla, WA, USA   USA
1969 Triumph Spitfire "Walla Walla"
1969 Triumph Spitfire "Portland"
1972 Triumph Spitfire MkIV "Spokane"
1975 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Dayton"    & more
It should have to be there for the steering arm to fit properly. If you place that arm against the back of the upright and insert the other bolt closer to the outer end of the arm, there should be a gap left where that inner washer is shown. If there is not, then the arm has been bent, and the surface around where that washer would be should not fit flush.
Dan

cmfisher4 Avatar
cmfisher4 Gold Member Chris Fisher
Mystic, CT, USA   USA
My Christmas present to myself...I got the boot floor patch welded in! Problems with the weld seam, however. Not sure if it's because I didn't clamp it or didn't support it or what, but the seam "sank" and made a "V"-shape along it's length. This causes the weld bead to sink below the surface of the two joined pieces of metal and it cannot be easily ground smooth. I haven't tried to hammer and dolly it, yet, but I'm sure the heat stiffened it up quite a bit and I'm not sure that I'll have all the much success and hammering it back flush to allow for grinding the beads down smooth.

I didn't get a really good picture of it, but if anyone has any pointers on why this happened and, more importantly, how to prevent it in the future (like when I replace the rear valance flange), I'd appreciate it!

Cheers,
Chris



I learn something new every day...especially if I am working on my LBC!
Please visit my blog and website at http://www.roundtailrestoration.com


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Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, BC, Canada   CAN
Jack with a board or section of 2x4 underneath and hammer down the surrounding area.

The weld itself looks pretty nice to me. Did you butt weld it all in one go?
If so, as the metal gets hot and expands, the edges push against each other and must either go up or down.

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SpitMan Avatar
SpitMan Doug Walls
Brandywine, MD, USA   USA
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "70 Spit"
1998 Chevrolet Corvette "Silver Fox"
2007 Chevrolet Silverado
2013 Chevrolet Malibu "Pearl Baby"
Looks like heat expansion from the welds. Usually, it is best to tack it in first and then weld in segments. A wet towel on flat surfaces has always helped me to keep the heat under control. But now that it is done and expanded, you could heat the "V" area with a torch and use a shrinking hammer and dolly to work it back into shape. Do not bang it into shape; tapping it moves the metal better than banging it.

Good luck Chris, your project is really taking shape and looking good.


r/ Doug/SpitMan

cmfisher4 Avatar
cmfisher4 Gold Member Chris Fisher
Mystic, CT, USA   USA
Yes, it was definitely heat affected, though I did try to only do an inch or two at a time and then move to the opposite side. I did but weld it and I think my gap between the two pieces was insufficient to allow for the heat expansion, which I didn't really consider. So, like Tony said, the pieces expanded into each other and had to go somewhere.

I'll try the heat and shrinking hammer, Doug, and see how it goes.

Thanks, guys!

Chris



I learn something new every day...especially if I am working on my LBC!
Please visit my blog and website at http://www.roundtailrestoration.com

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rpierce Avatar
rpierce Russell P
Warner Robins, GA, USA   USA
1964 Triumph Spitfire MkII "Macau/ Kastner Tribute"
I've seen worse factory welds and it's 100 times better than to was so don't over sweat it. If you are putting down heat shield and carpet the usual car critics will have to find something else to complain about.

byakk0 Avatar
byakk0 Hazen Wardle
Boise, ID, USA   USA
Chris, I wouldn't worry too much in that location, unless it throws measurements and fitting other panels off, I'd say leave it and move on, just use it as a learning experience and be glad it's in easily hidden area. Making it look as nice as you want is good enough



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~Hazen.

byakk0 Avatar
byakk0 Hazen Wardle
Boise, ID, USA   USA
Santa brought Abby her own tools and she had to help me on the carbs today.
I made a little headway on them myself, but still not satisfied. Something is funky with my carbs. I may need new needles and/or jets.



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~Hazen.


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cmfisher4 Avatar
cmfisher4 Gold Member Chris Fisher
Mystic, CT, USA   USA
Thanks, Hazen. Glad Abby is able to properly provide assistance, now!!

Cheers,
Chris



I learn something new every day...especially if I am working on my LBC!
Please visit my blog and website at http://www.roundtailrestoration.com

christrish Avatar
christrish Chris B
Lehi, UT, USA   USA
Finally had a day off to sort through my garage. Decided that I'm not painting the tub until Spring, so I'm focusing on prepping the bonnet, boot lid, doors and valences for paint. That way I can spray everything at the same time with the same batch of paint/clear.

Also finally figured out what belongs to the Spit and what doesn't. I'll start posting parts soon.

Putting the tub back on the chassis gave me some new motivation to move this project along! I really like the look of these LBC's!



Working to take the "D" out of DPO since 2013
Follow my restoration progress: http://73spitfire1500.blogspot.com


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TheZster Avatar
TheZster Steven Z
SAINT LOUIS, MO, USA   USA
Wow!! that's a beautiful project..... Wish I had the time (and energy) to do likewise..... Kudos to you... Can't wait to see her completed...

Z

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