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What Did You Do To Your Spitfire or GT6 today??

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Spity Avatar
Spity John Biek
Fresno, CA, USA   USA
In reply to # 1511063 by N5329K Topped off the final drive (differential) with fresh 90-weight Gl 4. I used a big syringe to add the gear oil, but getting the square-head plug out was not so straightforward. It involved using the square drive end of a half-inch socket, a coupling nut, then a normal 3/8ths ratchet and socket to grip the coupling nut. I used some fresh thread seal on the plug and snugged it back tight.
More complicated to describe than to do, and leveling the car with only two stands was a chore (large blocks of wood under the wheels were involved), but eventually I added about 1/2 cup of fresh oil.
Robin

Hi Robin, Glad you got it done. My diff is on my bench, I put it back together today and will install tomorrow! I just double checked and a 1/2 inch 12 point socket will fit the plug and make topping up the diff easier for you next time. Your local auto parts store will also have a hand pump that fits on top of the gear oil container and makes adding oil an easy job.

john

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byakk0 Avatar
byakk0 Hazen Wardle
Boise, ID, USA   USA
It's all good. Hopefully you're not off too far. I missed it by about 1/8".
I just relocated the hole in the tub. Had to use a dremel. Perhaps you can drill up from the bottom?
Oversized washer and no one can tell the hole is oblong smiling smiley

In reply to # 1510726 by cmfisher4 For the first time since 6/8/2016, though temporary, the body has been mated with the chassis! Some fit issues, but not bad. I'm doing this to ensure I get a good gap fit when I weld up the outer sills. It will come back off after that to get the bottom of it all cleaned and painted.

Unfortunately, I popped the weld on the captive nut on my new outrigger, so that's going to be a bi*#&h to get to and fix, but I should be able to work around it for now. Also, like Hazen (even though he told me about it and I thought I took adequate precautions to avoid it), I missed by about half a bolt width on the front mounting bracket that I removed and replaced, so I'll have to remedy that as well.

Otherwise, it was nice to see them team up once again!

Cheers,
Chris



- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
~Hazen.

JohnW63 John Williamson
Apple Valley, CA, USA   USA
Today, we pulled the front uprights off the donor car and the calipers. Those got all disassembled and cleaned. I'm getting real friendly with the bench grinder wire wheel and the 3M bristle-lok pads on a die grinder. Then my wife painted the parts. We ordered seals to put those back together and the 4 pistons. While on the web site, we ordered the rear brake cylinders and brake adjusters. There don't cost much and the old ones just didn't seem worth rebuilding.

We tried to get all four pistons out of the 16P calipers, but on the one on the fluid inlet side would come out with a good shot of compressed air. I slid on back in, blocked it from moving any more and tried again, but the other piston would not move. I think I'll start a thread on getting these buggers out.



Home of the 1969 GT6+ MK II resurrection project
and a sorry looking 1968 GT6+ parts car trying to stay whole.

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trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
John, I have had good luck with a couple of seal pullers. Sharpen the ends just enough to get in the groove, cross them in the middle and pull. It should get it to the point you can drive them out or work them in and out a few times adding brake fluid on the sides.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

cmfisher4 Avatar
cmfisher4 Gold Member Chris Fisher
Mystic, CT, USA   USA
I missed front to back, not side to side, so I'm hoping that some mechanical persuasion and a Dremel will take care of it.

Thanks, Hazen.

Chris



I learn something new every day...especially if I am working on my LBC!
Please visit my blog and website at http://www.roundtailrestoration.com

ptooner Gerry Geddings
Jacksonville, FL, USA   USA
Let's see, today I repaired the high beam lights (well really I just wiggled the wires at the front and they went to working) and I replaced the fuel sending unit. I can now tell how much fuel is on board without dipping the tank. smileys with beer

trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
Gerry, pull those bullet connectors apart at the front , both sides and clean with a small wire brush, then add a small bit of de electric grease on each and put it back together. It will be years before you have any more trouble out of the connections. Clean the ground wire on the steering rack and under it also.
Doing this in the rear will also help you keep things lite up. The bullet connectors oxidize badly. A set of small welding tip wire brushes can clean inside with no trouble.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

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trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
Wheel studs (4) are in, still waiting on all and lugs, but had to give it a go. Really under the weather myself, but took a few minutes in the garage.
I have got to do this, man does it look better, plus its bolt on wires, got to be better.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2018-02-09 03:48 PM by trrdster.


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Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
Does the head need to be tapered?

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SpitMan Avatar
SpitMan Doug Walls
Brandywine, MD, USA   USA
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "70 Spit"
1998 Chevrolet Corvette "Silver Fox"
2007 Chevrolet Silverado
2013 Chevrolet Malibu "Pearl Baby"
Doug, This will help to answer that question. http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/upgrade_spitfire_wheel_studs.html

Wayne, I used the CLP 9037L which already have the beveled head. I can not remember but I think the clearance could be a problem on the rear drums and not the front discs if the beveled ones are not used. I guess fitting one and checking will tell.

trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
Doug, I was going to cut them down to between 1 7/16 or 1 1/2 and taper the end thread one or two. I'm going to put a nut on the shaft before doing that, kind of clean the threads up, then use the tap/die set.
The lugs have over a inch inside, so that would be a good exposure to shoot for.
Just hate to take all of it apart again, but waiting on weather to paint, so just setting around thinking.
Did get the LED lights for the side markers and did a fit. They go in perfect after taking out the original. I will have to build up with plastic washers to get them up nearer the top, to get a brooder display.
I got the white/amber for the front and white/red for the back. As I am including them in the signal lights that wetwolf designed and using the LED flasher, it should work just fine. Tried it on a old one and it's bright.
Got to feel better before going at it full bore, old age is not for sissies.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
I've seen a drill press and a grinder clamped in a jig used in combination.

TheZster Avatar
TheZster Steven Z
SAINT LOUIS, MO, USA   USA
Pulled both doors off - hinges and all.... dropped one off at the upholstery shop (they're going to make a sweet tuck n roll for the door panels).... Brought the other one to the garage (work space v storage space)... and am working on the sloppy windows/window seals.... Halfway done (pretty easy) - but need to stop till daughter (14) comes over tomorrow for the weekend... she needs to put some elbow grease into her car..... LOL. Hope to put the carb assembly back on also this weekend... while eliminating all possibilities of vacuum leaks...

Z

cmfisher4 Avatar
cmfisher4 Gold Member Chris Fisher
Mystic, CT, USA   USA
Another few steps in getting the outer sills welded in. This time it was some more tub / chassis alignment and prepping the cross-members for installation. Next up is bonnet installation and, I think, final fitting with the doors. She's getting there!

Cheers,
Chris



I learn something new every day...especially if I am working on my LBC!
Please visit my blog and website at http://www.roundtailrestoration.com


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SpitMan Avatar
SpitMan Doug Walls
Brandywine, MD, USA   USA
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "70 Spit"
1998 Chevrolet Corvette "Silver Fox"
2007 Chevrolet Silverado
2013 Chevrolet Malibu "Pearl Baby"
I am not sure how you may do this Chris but you may want to check the bonnet alignment on the body before you finish your tub alignment. Just a thought.

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