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What Did You Do To Your Spitfire or GT6 today??

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SpitMan Avatar
SpitMan Doug Walls
Brandywine, Maryland, USA   USA
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "70 Spit"
1998 Chevrolet Corvette "Silver Fox"
2007 Chevrolet Silverado
2013 Chevrolet Malibu "Pearl Baby"
Found something interesting today on the Spitfire. I finished covering the inside of the windscreen with vinyl leatherette the other day and today started putting on the visors and the rear view mirror. I cleaned the mirror and found the inside, between the mirror glass (flipper type) had spots on the inside of the glass. I looked up the mirror head in Rimmers and VB and found that the mirror is for a MK4 or 1500 not a MK3 as I have. Either the PO upgraded or maybe the factory added it during the transition from the MK3 to the MK4???

Has anyone taken a MK4 or 1500 mirror apart to clean the insides?

Shipped from Rimmer Bros it is about $43 for the whole kit. So, maybe I should just wait until I need more stuff and order one - who knows.

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Yellowhawk Valley Avatar
walla walla, washington, USA   USA
1969 Triumph Spitfire "Walla Walla"
1969 Triumph Spitfire "Portland"
1972 Triumph Spitfire MkIV "Spokane"
1975 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Dayton"    & more
That is part I have not had the honor of dissecting yet. I don't have a bad one yet so it will have to wait.
Your comments about working around the mirror reminded me of an another weird thing I found on a couple of Spitfires. No idea if all were this way or just a few or what. When I first got my 79, the passenger side visor mounted mirror was missing, having fallen off or something. There was a small hole in the smooth plastic behind where the glass had been attached/glued on. I plucked out a piece of the brittle plastic and there was another piece of mirror glass behind it. After removing the rest of the brittle plastic, there is was, a while mirror, though it was not attached to the foam behind it.
I got curious about it and went over to look at the other cars, a 75, 78 and a 69. The 78 and 75 both had the surface mirror missing but sure as heck, behind the plastic was another one. The 69 was totally empty so no comparison there.
What is the deal with the dual mirror pieces in the original sun visors, and ideas? (I have a photo somewhere showing the 79 visor is partial destruction but can't find it right now.
Dan


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J.P.Rap Avatar
J.P.Rap J.P. Rap
Mount Hope, Ontario, Canada   CAN
1976 Triumph 1500 "Donna"
2007 Ford Ranger
Took a drive down to Niagara the other day (about 70ish KMs) . Most of the drive is about 80 KPH with a few stops. Then a couple minutes on the highway at 100 KPH, then about 5 Kms in town.
About half way through town I lost 2nd gear. Everything was perfectly fine up until that point. I made a left turn at a stop sign and when I tried to go into 2nd, it just wouldn't go. After a couple seconds of trying, I got some grinding so I dropped it back into first, got the revs up and shifted to third.
On the way home I stopped at my cousin's car lot. We put it up on the hoist and checked the fluid level. It was fine.
The next morning I took it for a drive. I found it would go into 2nd at very low RPM but it was a hard shift. Anything over 1500 RPM and it just won't go.
My first thought was the syncros but I don't know if it would suddenly fail like that. While I've have a bit of problem with 1st and 4th for the last year, 2nd and 3rd have never been a problem.

What are your thoughts? Would a syncro suddenly fail like that without warning?
The only work I've ever done on any transmission is to change a filter. Aside from that, I know virtually nothing about them. If this means a gear box tear down, I may have to park it early this year.



"In this world, you must be oh so smart, or oh so pleasant. Well, for years I was smart. I recommend pleasant." Elwood P. Dowd



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-09-13 10:30 AM by J.P.Rap.

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69Mk3Spit Avatar
69Mk3Spit Silver Member Dino Finelli
Oakville, ontario, Canada   CAN
Hey JP

That's too bad about the trans!

I would get the transmission cover off and inspect it.

The good news is that there are a tonne of these 4speed around. I have a 1300 trans to donate but you'll need to change a bunch of stuff, I would just put a used one in for 100 bucks. If you have trouble finding one Fred from British Autosports can get a used one for you from the US.

There is still a lot of driving to do in 2017!

Hope to at least see you at British Car Day!

Dino

alanroseman Avatar
alanroseman Silver Member Alan Roseman
Rehoboth, MA, USA   USA
1978 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "The Little Car.."
In reply to # 1484744 by J.P.Rap Took a drive down to Niagara the other day (about 70ish KMs) . Most of the drive is about 80 KPH with a few stops. Then a couple minutes on the highway at 100 KPH, then about 5 Kms in town.
About half way through town I lost 2nd gear. Everything was perfectly fine up until that point. I made a left turn at a stop sign and when I tried to go into 2nd, it just wouldn't go. After a couple seconds of trying, I got some grinding so I dropped it back into first, got the revs up and shifted to third.
On the way home I stopped at my cousin's car lot. We put it up on the hoist and checked the fluid level. It was fine.
The next morning I took it for a drive. I found it would go into 2nd at very low RPM but it was a hard shift. Anything over 1500 RPM and it just won't go.
My first thought was the syncros but I don't know if it would suddenly fail like that. While I've have a bit of problem with 1st and 4th for the last year, 2nd and 3rd have never been a problem.

What are your thoughts? Would a syncro suddenly fail like that without warning?
The only work I've ever done on any transmission is to change a filter. Aside from that, I know virtually nothing about them. If the means a gear box tear down, I may have to park it early this year.

JP

Please start a new thread for this issue. there is simply too much of a smorgasboad in this thread for my attention anyhow, I experienced your exact problem in July. My tranny as a three rail. No matter what, it'll have to come out, and it can come out right through the inside of the car. Remove the interior and yank it. I replaced my 3 rail with a correct single rail which was provided by a board member skyking123. You can visit my thread here on the board.

Transmission Swap



Cheers, Alan

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J.P.Rap Avatar
J.P.Rap J.P. Rap
Mount Hope, Ontario, Canada   CAN
1976 Triumph 1500 "Donna"
2007 Ford Ranger
Thanks guys. At this point I won't be getting into it. I just don't have the time right now. I'll look into finding a used trany when I have time but right now it'll have to wait. If I decide to repair it I'll start a new thread.



"In this world, you must be oh so smart, or oh so pleasant. Well, for years I was smart. I recommend pleasant." Elwood P. Dowd

scardini1 Avatar
scardini1 Gold Member Jim Moscardini
Great Mills, MD, USA   USA
1968 Triumph GT6 "Rocinante"
2003 Jaguar XKR "Kitty"
Mirrors:

Hi Doug! I tried to open up the original '68 GT6 mirror to clean it too. Wasn't gonna happen. And being as there was also some delamination going on in there I opted for a new mirror as well. But I seem to recall finding it at one of the domestic suppliers for less than that. Check around. Roci has a '74 1500 tub. It bolted right in.

Dan: I'd be careful about cutting that vinyl off your visors. It just could be that there was once a mirror on the "outside" of the shiny area (glue in place), and that the hard, flat object you feel beneath the surface is there to just keep the whole thing stable. It sounds really odd to me that there might be a mirror lurking around "inside" a visor.

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jkell01 Avatar
jkell01 Jack Kelleher
New Haven, Connecticut, USA   USA
1980 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Mrs. Doubtfire"
Took a great drive, my first since May! Drove the car back from the shop with new suspension, steering, alternator, battery, leaky carb fixed and a cooling system leak fixed too. A glorious fall drive.

Only problem is for the first half hour, if I came to a stop the revs would start fluctuating wildly. Dipping way below idle, then rising above, then dipping, then rising - if I didn't intervene with the throttle, it would occasionally cut itself completely out. I had a few quick restarts trying to pull off when pushing the gas and engaging first would run the revs down to zero. Seems like a fuel mix/supply issue to me...

Still, I didn't let it ruin a fantastic drive. 60 mi on winding country roads, with the trees just beginning to turn - what more could I ask for! Sunday I'm planning to drive to RI (about 100 mi), keeping to the backroads. I trust the car on the highway but have no desire to spend a couple hours at full revs w no overdrive...

scardini1 Avatar
scardini1 Gold Member Jim Moscardini
Great Mills, MD, USA   USA
1968 Triumph GT6 "Rocinante"
2003 Jaguar XKR "Kitty"
Hey Jack. Congrats on a nice drive. I apologize for offering such a sophomoric idea for your idling experience, but have your checked the oil in the carb dampener(s)?

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triumfan David Finkelstein
Fernandina Beach, Florida, USA   USA
1974 Jensen Healey "Yellow Peril"
1978 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Little Red"
Well we survived Irma, sort of. Lost a bunch of shingles from the house but nothing major. The major problem was my 4 bay garage leaked like a sieve. looks like I will need a new roof. There goes our trip to Hungary.

SpitMan Avatar
SpitMan Doug Walls
Brandywine, Maryland, USA   USA
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "70 Spit"
1998 Chevrolet Corvette "Silver Fox"
2007 Chevrolet Silverado
2013 Chevrolet Malibu "Pearl Baby"
Evidently mirrors in the visors were cheap because my old visor had a mirror inside the visor also. I opted for new ones.

65or66 Gold Member Jim B
Lake village, IN, USA   USA
1965 Triumph Spitfire MkII
1973 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Jusanudda Munny Pit"
Yesterday, completed a 'bodge' update on a PO 'bodge' repair. The floor/sill/rocker junction was bad enough to cause door issues, but PO 's fix was to rivet pieces of street sign and other scrap into the floors, and bondo over the holes in the rockers. Looks 'ok' from 20 feet, but door issues would need more work. Used a 4' long piece of 1-1/4"X1/8" angle. Drilled two holes at each end, 1" and 4" from each end. Corresponding holes in the 'floor', about 1" inboard of the pinch weld flange. Two pieces of 2"x6"x1/8" plate with holes on top of the floors. and four 3/8 bolts, nuts and washers to pull it all together. It did actually pull a good bit of the sag out of the sill area, and now I can actually make adjustments at the hinges to get a better door closing. Still need to do the passenger side, but at least I know it will work now.

I had tested my theory by putting a short piece of 2X4 lumber under the floor in center of the door opening just inboard of the rocker flange, and helping it with a small floor jack. Once I was certain the lumber wouldn't punch through the floor, it didn't take a lot of push from the floor jack to gain the gaps at the top of the door openings. This fix is not permanent (I hope anyway), just wanted to get it back on the road some this year, and not have to climb over the doors to get in and out.

Also pulled all the works out of the doors that I picked up a couple weeks ago. Making the decision now to either clean up the newer, wrong color doors and re-assemble, or change over the hardware to the older, correct color door shells. Newer doors are post-74, so they do have the side impact beams. Hopefully I'll never need those beams?

Growe58 Avatar
Growe58 Greg Rowe
Hatfield, PA, USA   USA
In reply to # 1484800 by triumfan Well we survived Irma, sort of. Lost a bunch of shingles from the house but nothing major. The major problem was my 4 bay garage leaked like a sieve. looks like I will need a new roof. There goes our trip to Hungary.

Sorry to hear about the house and garage but very glad to hear you are ok! Thanks for checking in and letting us know smiling bouncing smiley

Yellowhawk Valley Avatar
walla walla, washington, USA   USA
1969 Triumph Spitfire "Walla Walla"
1969 Triumph Spitfire "Portland"
1972 Triumph Spitfire MkIV "Spokane"
1975 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Dayton"    & more
Quote: It sounds really odd to me that there might be a mirror lurking around "inside" a visor

As Doug add, there are mirrors inside the visor, with the original on the outside. One of these days I will find that photo showing it.
Dan

SpitMan Avatar
SpitMan Doug Walls
Brandywine, Maryland, USA   USA
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "70 Spit"
1998 Chevrolet Corvette "Silver Fox"
2007 Chevrolet Silverado
2013 Chevrolet Malibu "Pearl Baby"
I did something similar when I did my floorpans and rockers. I reinforced the upper portion of the door opening as most do but I also put 2x4s across the jack stands, from front to rear as extra support. This worked well with no sag. However, a tip from a body/paint man with 30 years experience; he told me that as I do the rockers and any panels for that matter around the door openings, to fit the doors from time to time as I progressed. He suggested to tap with screws at a few points before welding to make sure of door alignment.



In reply to # 1484869 by 65or66 Yesterday, completed a 'bodge' update on a PO 'bodge' repair. The floor/sill/rocker junction was bad enough to cause door issues, but PO 's fix was to rivet pieces of street sign and other scrap into the floors, and bondo over the holes in the rockers. Looks 'ok' from 20 feet, but door issues would need more work. Used a 4' long piece of 1-1/4"X1/8" angle. Drilled two holes at each end, 1" and 4" from each end. Corresponding holes in the 'floor', about 1" inboard of the pinch weld flange. Two pieces of 2"x6"x1/8" plate with holes on top of the floors. and four 3/8 bolts, nuts and washers to pull it all together. It did actually pull a good bit of the sag out of the sill area, and now I can actually make adjustments at the hinges to get a better door closing. Still need to do the passenger side, but at least I know it will work now.

I had tested my theory by putting a short piece of 2X4 lumber under the floor in center of the door opening just inboard of the rocker flange, and helping it with a small floor jack. Once I was certain the lumber wouldn't punch through the floor, it didn't take a lot of push from the floor jack to gain the gaps at the top of the door openings. This fix is not permanent (I hope anyway), just wanted to get it back on the road some this year, and not have to climb over the doors to get in and out.

Also pulled all the works out of the doors that I picked up a couple weeks ago. Making the decision now to either clean up the newer, wrong color doors and re-assemble, or change over the hardware to the older, correct color door shells. Newer doors are post-74, so they do have the side impact beams. Hopefully I'll never need those beams?

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