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High-torque, gear reduction starter installation tips

Posted by chaddox 
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chaddox Avatar
Chris Haddox
Gilbert, AZ, USA   usa

Burned up the stock starter trying to get my higher compression engine started. Decided I likely needed a high-torque starter. Bought a remanufactured one for the Spit from The Driven Man for $210 shipped. When I got it I was already perplexed by whether or not I would need the 1/2" aluminum spacer that was used with the stock starter. Here is my story...

1. Tried it with the spacer last night. It was not a matched fit, but it spaced the starter away. I tried the start button and the starter turned but would not engage the ring gear.

2. Took the spacer out, reinstalled the starter and pushed the start button. It engaged and turned the engine over, but no start. Timing issue.

3. Started trying to adjust timing this morning to get it to fire. Put tranny in 4th gear so I could roll the timing mark to the index where I needed it. As I was doing that I heard the starter being turned. It was still engaged!!!

4. Took starter back off and took measurements. It was clear I would need the spacer, but it needed to be machined to allow the starter to mate up correctly. Used a router to mill out the needed 1/8" all around the big inside hole. Now the starter would fit in flush.

5. Took the 2 Allen screws out from the mounting plate on the starter so I could turn it so that the solenoid was not in the way of the long steering linkage. The mounting plate has quite a few adjustment holes so you can position the starter just the way you like.

6. Re-installed the starter with spacer in place. Pushed start button and it engages the ring gear. Put tranny in 4th and pushed and did not notice the starter still engaged. I think I got it!!!

So, if anyone asks in the future, Yes, the spacer is required when fitting a high-torque starter but will likely need to be milled out a bit for fit.

Back to trying to set the timing once the battery charges back up smiling smiley

--ch



Chris Haddox
1973 Spitfire 1500 Custom - 'In Progress'
Chandler, AZ

kellybell Avatar
Kelly bell
Atlanta, USA   usa
1972 MG MGB "Mr B"
1975 Porsche MGB
2000 Volvo S70

i PUT MINE IN W/O THE SPACER. sEEMS i COULD NOT FIT IT IN BECAUSE OF CLEARANCE ISSUES. hOW DID YOU DO IT? dO YOU HAVE A PICTURE?

chaddox Avatar
Chris Haddox
Gilbert, AZ, USA   usa

I didn't take pics of my mahine work, but here is a profile. You can see I adjusted so the solenoid is toward the frame and you can see the original aluminum spacer in between.



Chris Haddox
1973 Spitfire 1500 Custom - 'In Progress'
Chandler, AZ

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Attachments:
Starter Profile.JPG    37.6 KB
Starter Profile.JPG

kellybell Avatar
Kelly bell
Atlanta, USA   usa
1972 MG MGB "Mr B"
1975 Porsche MGB
2000 Volvo S70

Where is the steering rod?

chaddox Avatar
Chris Haddox
Gilbert, AZ, USA   usa

Haven't put it in yet cuz i didn't want it in my way while I Futz with the wiring. But I do have a direct line of site from inside the car through to where it links up with the steering rack.



Chris Haddox
1973 Spitfire 1500 Custom - 'In Progress'
Chandler, AZ

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Mark Jones Avatar
SW, Ontario, Canada   can
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII
1995 MG MGF "Barney"

There was an article on just this topic in the last issue, or the one before, of "Triumph Spitfire & GT6" magazine. The findings were the same as Chris'.

kellybell Avatar
Kelly bell
Atlanta, USA   usa
1972 MG MGB "Mr B"
1975 Porsche MGB
2000 Volvo S70

Well, when i put mine in, it would not clear the steering with the spacer attached. It only fit when I didnt use it. I'd be interested to see if it happens to you asd well..............

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chaddox Avatar
Chris Haddox
Gilbert, AZ, USA   usa

Kelly.

Not mounted for real, but the end of the rod is in the coupling at the steering rack and the wheel about where it would be in the dash. Here is a pic. The steering rod touches nothing with about an inch of space all around.



Chris Haddox
1973 Spitfire 1500 Custom - 'In Progress'
Chandler, AZ


Attachments:
IMG_1703.JPG    41.9 KB
IMG_1703.JPG

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