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De smogging

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ptooner Gerry Geddings
Jacksonville, FL, USA   USA
I suspect someone has covered this but I can't seem to find a way to search for it. I have a 75 US market Spitfire 1500 and I would like to get the smog stuff off of it. Is there a step by step process somewhere with instructions? There have been a few things removed but the air pump is still hooked up to the exhaust manifold at least. Thanks
Gerry

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Yellowhawk Valley Avatar
walla walla, WA, USA   USA
1969 Triumph Spitfire "Walla Walla"
1969 Triumph Spitfire "Portland"
1972 Triumph Spitfire MkIV "Spokane"
1975 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Dayton"    & more
The air pump stuff is the easiest. Just pull it all off and put a plug in the port in the exhaust manifold. Install a shorter fan belt. It does not affect any of the other settings. Yopu should have an air rail with injection ports into the head - right? That can be removed and replaced with plugs. Save all the pieces for others that have to comply with smog laws.
Dan

ptooner Gerry Geddings
Jacksonville, FL, USA   USA
Thanks for the info and I will surely save the stuff. Is there really a state that requires smog inspection on antique cars? Many years ago I owned a Maserati biturbo coupe and the nearby Ferrari/Maserati shop kept a full set of smog stuff including catalytic converters that you could rent for the biannual smog inspection. That was in Virginia. I am pretty sure that car would be old enough now to be exempt.
Gerry

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colodad Avatar
colodad Silver Member Calvin Williams
Grand Junction, CO, USA   USA
1979 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Spitty"
post some photos Gerry, we can see what is still connected, and direct you from there.
both sides of the engine compartment are needed.

Yellowhawk Valley Avatar
walla walla, WA, USA   USA
1969 Triumph Spitfire "Walla Walla"
1969 Triumph Spitfire "Portland"
1972 Triumph Spitfire MkIV "Spokane"
1975 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Dayton"    & more
In reply to # 1512092 by ptooner Thanks for the info and I will surely save the stuff. Is there really a state that requires smog inspection on antique cars? Many years ago I owned a Maserati biturbo coupe and the nearby Ferrari/Maserati shop kept a full set of smog stuff including catalytic converters that you could rent for the biannual smog inspection. That was in Virginia. I am pretty sure that car would be old enough now to be exempt.
Gerry

Yes, California, (and a couple of others) depending upon the year. (We don't know what year yours is) The earliest smog cars have just gone off the hook, I understand.
Dan

Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
I'd consider an AC compressor to take it's place.

TheZster Avatar
TheZster Steven Z
SAINT LOUIS, MO, USA   USA
In reply to # 1512147 by Doug in Vegas I'd consider an AC compressor to take it's place.

LOL.... always thinking.... aren't you.... You do have A/C on your's now, right? I've got twin 60's..... Works pretty good

Z

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ptooner Gerry Geddings
Jacksonville, FL, USA   USA
I hope I attached photos. Anyway, it is a 75 and I removed the flapper thing in front of the air cleaner and everything else is mostly original. Last photo was when I was rebuilding the carb.
Gerry



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poulsbobill Bill K
Poulsbo, WA, USA   USA
Removing the stuff is easy. Plugs can be a chore to get the threads and sizes right. Used an old model t drain plug for the egr valve. (info found here)

Main thing , Just make sure all the vacuum ports are dealt with Tight as a drum.

I left the carbon canisters so no fuel smell.

Bill



1980 Spitfire

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GeorgeOhr Nonya Business
Yes, confused, USA   USA
In reply to # 1512033 by Yellowhawk Valley The air pump stuff is the easiest. Just pull it all off and put a plug in the port in the exhaust manifold. Install a shorter fan belt. It does not affect any of the other settings. Yopu should have an air rail with injection ports into the head - right? That can be removed and replaced with plugs. Save all the pieces for others that have to comply with smog laws.
Dan


Don't stop there, rip off that cyclops Stromberg and put some dual Su's or a DGV at a minimum. Some hath no love for the DGV but mine have been great out the box. Set timing to 10deg BTDC regardless if you haven't already. I removed my vacuum retard from the distributor and put an advance unit from another distributor but can't remeber from what.

ptooner Gerry Geddings
Jacksonville, FL, USA   USA
I did set the timing to 10 but I am getting some spark knock just coming off idle. I wonder if the distributor retard or advance you refer to is relevant? I'd like to hear about other folks experience with carbs although the stromberg is working quite nicely since I rebuilt it. I have lots more experience with SUs but I doubt if that change would really be an improvement. I'd like to at least consider a weber DCOE type but will put that off for a while.

Gerry

Voda2000 Avatar
Voda2000 Andrew McMillan
Winnipeg, MB, Canada   CAN
Did you have the vacuumed line connected when setting the timing? If so I would think you static timeing would be quite a bit beyond what you were amining for. I believed you should set the timing with the vacume line disconnected and the fitting on the carb blocked.

Regarding the ZS. I ran one on a desmogged 1500 for the last 17 year and it can work ok. I’m in the process of building up a pair of SUs and I believe they will flow a lot better. Not necessarily because of SU vs ZS but because the intake is munch better setup and you can move more air.



1978 Triumph Spitfire

ptooner Gerry Geddings
Jacksonville, FL, USA   USA
In reply to # 1512540 by Voda2000 Did you have the vacuumed line connected when setting the timing? If so I would think you static timeing would be quite a bit beyond what you were amining for. I believed you should set the timing with the vacume line disconnected and the fitting on the carb blocked.

Regarding the ZS. I ran one on a desmogged 1500 for the last 17 year and it can work ok. I’m in the process of building up a pair of SUs and I believe they will flow a lot better. Not necessarily because of SU vs ZS but because the intake is munch better setup and you can move more air.

Well, now I'm wondering. I found the timing at about 18 before TDC and I changed it to 10 before with the vacuum line connected because that was what was indicated in my manual. I just checked another manual and it said to set at 2 degrees AFTER TDC with the line connected. Now I'm not sure what is really correct.
Gerry

Voda2000 Avatar
Voda2000 Andrew McMillan
Winnipeg, MB, Canada   CAN
Sorry I stand corrected, I just checked my Haynes Manual and it says explicitly to leave the vacuum connected for the electronic distributor. The mechanical distributors require the vacuum must be disconnected.

I'm not sure the reason why as the they want it connected for the electronic as I would think getting the timing right would be harder.

My car doesn't run a 45DE4 anymore, it has a 43D4 with a Pertornix in it so no vacuum of any kind on it, just mechanical advance.



1978 Triumph Spitfire

Yellowhawk Valley Avatar
walla walla, WA, USA   USA
1969 Triumph Spitfire "Walla Walla"
1969 Triumph Spitfire "Portland"
1972 Triumph Spitfire MkIV "Spokane"
1975 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Dayton"    & more
We all need to remember/realize that in that era the smog setups were changing every year, both in what they did and how they did it as well as what pieces were added and subtracted. It will be necessary to be referencing material that is very closely suited to a 75 smog car to get it all right. Then you have to be aware of possible changes made by PO's.

Dan

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