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Solenoid Diagnosis Help

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GarrettWendt Avatar
GarrettWendt Garrett Wendt
Pittsford, New York, USA   USA
So, after much prep...I tried to turn over the engine today (after over a year!).

Turned the key and nothing...not even a click.

Seems to be an issue with the solenoid (which is brand new about 1.5 years ago). It was working originally.

I did the "Big Screwdriver Jump" trick and the car did turn over.

With voltmeter testing:
- Battery is fully charged
- [When key turned] positive wire from ignition to solenoid is HOT (12v)
- [When key turned] negative wire on other side of solenoid read about 9v...is that normal?

I tapped the solenoid lightly with a screwdriver handle to set it free if needed...

Only thing that changed was...last spring I removed the solenoid and painted the...forgot what it's called...the "shelf" and battery box. Does the solenoid need bare metal beneath it to ground to the "shelf"?

Any other ideas?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-12-02 09:05 PM by GarrettWendt.

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Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, British Columbia, Canada   CAN
Hummm. Check grounds and wire connections.

Where did the solenoid come from?

The common replacment is a stock (older model) Ford solenoid.

GarrettWendt Avatar
GarrettWendt Garrett Wendt
Pittsford, New York, USA   USA
Good question Tony...bought when I was new to all this so maybe...Victoria British? eye popping smiley

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Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, Nevada, USA   USA
Unplug and hook a test light to the white wire with the red tracer and turn the key to see if it lights.

GarrettWendt Avatar
GarrettWendt Garrett Wendt
Pittsford, New York, USA   USA

GarrettWendt Avatar
GarrettWendt Garrett Wendt
Pittsford, New York, USA   USA
In reply to a post by Doug in Vegas Unplug and hook a test light to the white wire with the red tracer and turn the key to see if it lights.

Yeah, I essentially did that with the voltmeter, with it facing the windshield so I could read it...12v when key turned.

Falkon Avatar
Falkon Al Martin
Appleton, Wisconsin, USA   USA
To the best of my knowledge the case needs a good ground.

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Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, Nevada, USA   USA
I went with FOMOCO on mine due to personal experience.

GarrettWendt Avatar
GarrettWendt Garrett Wendt
Pittsford, New York, USA   USA
In reply to a post by Falkon To the best of my knowledge the case needs a good ground.

So do you mean I should scrape the paint from beneath it?

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Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, Nevada, USA   USA
In reply to # 1500970 by Falkon To the best of my knowledge the case needs a good ground.

There should be an actual ground wire on the harness with a big eyelet designed to go on one of the mounting bolts for the solenoid.

Things get kinda messy in that area which is another reason I mounted mine to the back wall.

GarrettWendt Avatar
GarrettWendt Garrett Wendt
Pittsford, New York, USA   USA
Oh right. Yeah there is that wire there.

GarrettWendt Avatar
GarrettWendt Garrett Wendt
Pittsford, New York, USA   USA
Here is my setup:


Attachments:
Solenoid Wiring 3.JPG    51.2 KB
Solenoid Wiring 3.JPG

Solenoid Wiring 2.JPG    49.8 KB
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Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, Nevada, USA   USA
Zoom in on the mount and you will see the original large (10 gauge?) black wire and eyelet.


Attachments:
Starter solenoid.jpg    78.8 KB
Starter solenoid.jpg

Falkon Avatar
Falkon Al Martin
Appleton, Wisconsin, USA   USA
Something needs to ground that metal bracket to the car body. If there is a black ground wire, this example doesn't have one, it needs a good ground point. If not, the bracket itself must ground to the body, or add a wire from one of the bracket bolts to another good ground on the body. You can see my black ground wire from the solenoid base to the body at the battery box.


Attachments:
soenoid wiring.jpg    42.6 KB
soenoid wiring.jpg

Apr 10 2011 014.jpg    58.8 KB
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Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, British Columbia, Canada   CAN
This is the Ford unit, they are about $5 with a discount code from Rock Auto.

You might want to troubleshoot yours by running a jumper from battery + to the ignition switch terminal on the solenoid. The solenoid should click in. Then (if it still does not work) run a jumper from the body mount to a good clean ground.


Attachments:
NPOhNZL.jpg    12.8 KB
NPOhNZL.jpg

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