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Spitfire & GT6 Forum

Engine enhancements

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Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, British Columbia, Canada   CAN
In reply to # 1497775 by teeka56 High strength, high quality fasteners for critical applications.

http://www.arp-bolts.com

Mike

At a price $$

I can understand using these fasteners for flywheel bolts and con rod ends (although the OE ones are more than good enough)

But for less critical and 'easier to change if they strip' applications like head studs they seem un-necessary.

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Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, Nevada, USA   USA
In reply to # 1497783 by Tonyfixit
In reply to # 1497775 by teeka56 High strength, high quality fasteners for critical applications.

http://www.arp-bolts.com

Mike

At a price $$

I can understand using these fasteners for flywheel bolts and con rod ends (although the OE ones are more than good enough)

But for less critical and 'easier to change if they strip' applications like head studs they seem un-necessary.

I have a friend with more money than sense. When asked, "Why buy that?" he'll respond, "Why not?"

clshore Carter Shore
Beverly Hills, Florida, USA   USA
In reply to # 1497775 by teeka56 High strength, high quality fasteners for critical applications.

http://www.arp-bolts.com

Mike

Which a street driven Spitfire IS NOT winking smiley

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IanF Ian Furqueron
Croydon, PA, USA   USA
Being in Indiana, you aren't that far away from http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/. Give Ted a call and he can walk you through the process of building a nice 1500 for a street driven Spit.



"Lisle" - '72 GT6 basically stock and original. For now... T-9 conversion pending.
"Winnie the Poo" - '79 Spitfire 1500. Rubber to chrome bumper conversion, otherwise stock at the moment.

claytoncnc Avatar
claytoncnc Gold Member Marcus Clayton
Melbourne, Ivanhoe, Australia   AUS
This has been discussed many times before, and the recommendations have not changed.

Basically do a quality machining job on your engine, ensuring everything is round and square, bump the compression to 9.5:1, do not port the head, but do a quality valve job and clean up any dags, then assemble to a mk3 Spitfire spec using euro exhaust and HS4s.
This will net you a very torquey engine, that is happy to rush to the red line, that should be set at 6000 max.

An engine like this will net around 90 HP.

That power is exciting in a lightweight Spitfire, but more importantly, the car will be reliable, tractable and durable, your mum could drive it, and using mainly factory parts, it is inexpensive.

Several I know of in this group have built engines to this formula, and one of them, Andy, reports, that it "goes like a stabbed rat"

A 5 year old post sets it out well http://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?22,844853.

More power is obviously available, a set of DCOE webers will gain you around 10HP and some torque, but will add a lot to the bill. These are very streetable, but the car will be much noisier, so I guess its whether you prefer the refinement of SUs, or the constant gobble of the Webers. (I like the sound, but I use SUs)

brucejon Avatar
brucejon Bruce Jones
Santa Cruz, CA, USA   USA
1962 Triumph TR3B
1963 Triumph TR3B "Tupperware TR3"
1969 Triumph Spitfire MkIII
1972 Triumph TR6
^. This is what I chose, having both engines available and having to choose.. Ted at TSI did the work. I am very happy with it.

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