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Distributor rebuild?

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dplass Avatar
dplass Silver Member David P
Merrick, New York, USA   USA
1972 Triumph GT6 MkIII "The Beast"
2011 Ford Fusion
"Final" (ha) update: I drilled out the pin from both sides, as Dennis P and others suggested, and finally was able to disassemble the whole thing. Still unsure about the bushings though.

Video with more thoughts:



-D

1972 GT6 MK3 "The Beast"

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spitfire50 Avatar
spitfire50 Paul Mugford
Rochester, N.H., USA   USA
David,
If an unworn section of the shaft can wobble in the bushings they need replacing. The part of the shaft between bushings when it is assembled should be good for this check.
All the best,
Paul

Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, British Columbia, Canada   CAN
Clean up the shaft and inspect it for wear. There are upper and lower bushings in the distributor body, that can be drifted out and replaced. However if the shaft is worn, you may want to use longer bushings that will bare on un-worn areas of the shaft.

I think that ring is just worn away from the top bushing.

I found stock Oilite bushing of the correct diameter in various lengths. I can't remember if I doubled up on short bushings or cut down extra long ones for my Dizzy.

If you can't find a suitable Top hat bushing (for the upper bush) cut the old bushing down just enough the re-seat the bush and the thrust face but insert a regular, cylindrical bushing under it.

I looks kind of rusty inside. I guess it did not get oiled on a regular basis!

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dplass Avatar
dplass Silver Member David P
Merrick, New York, USA   USA
1972 Triumph GT6 MkIII "The Beast"
2011 Ford Fusion
I can't fathom how to drive out either bushing - there's almost no access. Am I missing something?

Also, there were no thrust washers on either end of the shaft - is this normal?

In reply to # 1500812 by Tonyfixit Clean up the shaft and inspect it for wear. There are upper and lower bushings in the distributor body, that can be drifted out and replaced. However if the shaft is worn, you may want to use longer bushings that will bare on un-worn areas of the shaft.

I think that ring is just worn away from the top bushing.

I found stock Oilite bushing of the correct diameter in various lengths. I can't remember if I doubled up on short bushings or cut down extra long ones for my Dizzy.

If you can't find a suitable Top hat bushing (for the upper bush) cut the old bushing down just enough the re-seat the bush and the thrust face but insert a regular, cylindrical bushing under it.

I looks kind of rusty inside. I guess it did not get oiled on a regular basis!



-D

1972 GT6 MK3 "The Beast"

Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, British Columbia, Canada   CAN
You will feel the bushings in the distributor stem.
Turn the dizzy up-side down on your bench, probe down the neck with a screw driver, you will feel the restriction of the upper bush. Find or make a suitable skinny drift to 'work' the bushing out. Tap (not too hard) one side, then the other until it pops out.
Then put the dizzy neck right side up in a vice (even one like yours will do ;-) )
This time you may use some 1/2" copper pipe or such to drift the lower bush out.

dplass Avatar
dplass Silver Member David P
Merrick, New York, USA   USA
1972 Triumph GT6 MkIII "The Beast"
2011 Ford Fusion
Thanks Tony.

In reply to # 1500824 by Tonyfixit You will feel the bushings in the distributor stem.
Turn the dizzy up-side down on your bench, probe down the neck with a screw driver, you will feel the restriction of the upper bush. Find or make a suitable skinny drift to 'work' the bushing out. Tap (not too hard) one side, then the other until it pops out.
Then put the dizzy neck right side up in a vice (even one like yours will do ;-) )
This time you may use some 1/2" copper pipe or such to drift the lower bush out.



-D

1972 GT6 MK3 "The Beast"

spitfire50 Avatar
spitfire50 Paul Mugford
Rochester, N.H., USA   USA
David,
In the case of difficult bushings, taking a thick flat washer just smaller than the bushing and making two flats on opposite sides of it so it can be dropped through one of the bushings, allows you to either push on the washer, or use a threaded rod (all thread) and nuts to make a puller.
Good luck,
Paul

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dplass Avatar
dplass Silver Member David P
Merrick, New York, USA   USA
1972 Triumph GT6 MkIII "The Beast"
2011 Ford Fusion
Tony, this worked a treat! smileys with beer It's one of the first things I've done on The Beast that went "by the book".

Still don't know about the washer/thrust bearing under the weight plate though.


In reply to # 1500824 by Tonyfixit You will feel the bushings in the distributor stem.
Turn the dizzy up-side down on your bench, probe down the neck with a screw driver, you will feel the restriction of the upper bush. Find or make a suitable skinny drift to 'work' the bushing out. Tap (not too hard) one side, then the other until it pops out.
Then put the dizzy neck right side up in a vice (even one like yours will do ;-) )
This time you may use some 1/2" copper pipe or such to drift the lower bush out.



-D

1972 GT6 MK3 "The Beast"

Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, British Columbia, Canada   CAN
"Still don't know about the washer/thrust bearing under the weight plate though. "

It has been sometime, but I remember my dizzy had a Top hat bushing* as the top bushing that served as an upper thrust washer. In the earlier illustration it just shows upper and lower thrust washers.

Whatever you have, you just need to prevent axial movment of the shaft when re-assembled.

* The original bushings were sintered iron. My replacments were Bronze Oilite, which I think would be better in this application.

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spitfire50 Avatar
spitfire50 Paul Mugford
Rochester, N.H., USA   USA
In reply to # 1500956 by Tonyfixit "Still don't know about the washer/thrust bearing under the weight plate though. "

It has been sometime, but I remember my dizzy had a Top hat bushing* as the top bushing that served as an upper thrust washer. In the earlier illustration it just shows upper and lower thrust washers.
Whatever you have, you just need to prevent axial movment of the shaft when re-assembled.


* The original bushings were sintered iron. My replacments were Bronze Oilite, which I think would be better in this application.
Tony,
This isn't all that critical. The bottom of the pedestal sets the end float on the distributor drive gear, so there is no timing change as the shaft rises and falls.
All the best,
Paul

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