TRExp

Spitfire & GT6 Forum

Dash Rebuild/Reconfigure project

Moss Motors
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor

paddy1998 Avatar
paddy1998 Scott Delaney
Joliet, IL, USA   USA
In reply to # 1486031 by Fictioneer Illinois gets pretty cold in the winter. I suspect you must be building a fair weather car, Scott.

Doug

I guess that depends on what you mean by "fair weather." Last week I went out at 6am and it was 48F. In deference to the cooler weather I added a windbreaker to my usual wardrobe of shorts and sandals. Within 10 minutes or so my feet and legs were plenty toasty. I imagine that I will not be driving my Spit in weather below 40F, much the same as I used to with my motorcycle, which I sold to buy this. Although I still have my leathers should I have an uncontrollable urge to go motoring in January. cool smiley

The main reasons I deleted the heater were:

1. The core was shot when I bought the car and the PO had already bypassed the heater control valve, and

2. I did not want to spend the money on a heater for a car that will not likely be driven much in winter, if at all, and

3. In light of #2 I am uncomfortable spending money to make the interior nice only to await the fall of the Sword of Damocles in the form a coolant leak from the heater core.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, Nevada, USA   USA
Best to pull the heater box and learn to braze.

I'm considering an AC unit myself.

paddy1998 Avatar
paddy1998 Scott Delaney
Joliet, IL, USA   USA
Progress!

Got the radio fitted thanks to some sound advice from Ron (Smokey) Wasmuth, and (from left to right) three way headlight pull switch, auxiliary light switch, and ignition pull switch.

On to paint!

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

Attachments:
KIMG0077.JPG    33.4 KB
KIMG0077.JPG

KIMG0078.JPG    34.5 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
KIMG0079.JPG    22.1 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
paddy1998 Avatar
paddy1998 Scott Delaney
Joliet, IL, USA   USA
AND my license plates finally came today!


Attachments:
KIMG0081.JPG    38.4 KB
KIMG0081.JPG

Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, Nevada, USA   USA
Often wondered if the Ford heater control could be modified and put in the former radio location.



Dual cable and multi-throw switch.

paddy1998 Avatar
paddy1998 Scott Delaney
Joliet, IL, USA   USA
Center panel complete.

Now I'm waiting on delivery of a cigarette lighter/powerport/maplight that I ordered to finish the right panel.


Attachments:
KIMG0083.JPG    26.7 KB
KIMG0083.JPG

KIMG0082.JPG    33.5 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
MoneyPitSpit Avatar
MoneyPitSpit Ron (Smokey) Wasmuth
Beautiful, Sparkling, Lakeland, Florida, USA   USA
1974 Triumph Spitfire "Midnight Blue"
1995 Chevrolet Camaro "Crystal Blue Persuasion"
In reply to # 1486526 by paddy1998 Center panel complete.

Now I'm waiting on delivery of a cigarette lighter/powerport/maplight that I ordered to finish the right panel.
I installed two lighter sockets: I belong to the Patriot Guard Riders and can no longer ride a bike. I use 1 socket for my Garmin to lead me to the missions and the second socket to charge my phone,etc. I hide them behind the Union Jack buttons when I don't need them.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

Attachments:
Lighter sockets (1).JPG    48.4 KB
Lighter sockets (1).JPG

Lighter sockets (2).JPG    47.9 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
paddy1998 Avatar
paddy1998 Scott Delaney
Joliet, IL, USA   USA
The cigarette lighter/map light/power port came and so I was able to get the passenger side dash panel finished and painted yesterday and installed this morning.

Well, that about completes this part of the project. As you can see in the pictures, I removed the embarrassingly cracked dash pad, which I will be repairing and recovering using the method outlined by SpitMan here

For now, it's off to the shop for the professionals to rewire!


Attachments:
KIMG0084.JPG    37.6 KB
KIMG0084.JPG

KIMG0085.JPG    39.3 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
KIMG0086.JPG    36.4 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
MoneyPitSpit Avatar
MoneyPitSpit Ron (Smokey) Wasmuth
Beautiful, Sparkling, Lakeland, Florida, USA   USA
1974 Triumph Spitfire "Midnight Blue"
1995 Chevrolet Camaro "Crystal Blue Persuasion"
Looking good.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
TheBomb Avatar
TheBomb Chris Gill
Toronto, Ontario, Canada   CAN
1975 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "The Bomb"
Are you going to re-install the trim pieces along the bottom once the re-wire is done?

paddy1998 Avatar
paddy1998 Scott Delaney
Joliet, IL, USA   USA
Yes. In fact, I bought excess material for the dash pad re-covering so that I can re-cover the trim pieces with matching material.

I was on the fence about the dash pad. I very seriously considered doing a twill weave carbon fiber wet layup, but then the trim pieces would not match.

So black vinyl it is. (I even toyed with using a genuine faux bull hide for the dash pad - but I think the paint is garish enough. smoking smiley )

paddy1998 Avatar
paddy1998 Scott Delaney
Joliet, IL, USA   USA
I wasn't going to include the re-covering of the dash pad as part of this string because I thought it was going to take awhile and that I wouldn't get it done before the car went into the shop for the rewiring.

As it happens I completed it in just a few hours, plus an overnight for the foam to dry.

Its not at all show quality, and a very close scrutiny will reveal many imperfections. However, it is an exponential improvement over the eyesore I began with. All told I have about $25 in it, mostly because I bought more than double the amount of vinyl needed in anticipation of screwing it up the first time.

A heat gun is absolutely necessary to remove the old covering. I cannot emphasize this enough, as using the heat gun will separate the covering from the foam with minimal damage to the foam itself. Just start at an edge, heating and pulling, and it comes off pretty quickly.

Included below is a photo of the underside of the dash pad showing the location of the mounting studs to aid anyone having trouble finding them.


Attachments:
KIMG0088.JPG    17.8 KB
KIMG0088.JPG

KIMG0091.JPG    35.7 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
KIMG0093.JPG    20.5 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
KIMG0094.JPG    33.4 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
paddy1998 Avatar
paddy1998 Scott Delaney
Joliet, IL, USA   USA
Next I used a Great Stuff type foam (the Loctite brand was on sale) to fill the cracks in the pad foam.

You wind up with a ton of it all over, but after it dries you just cut it away with a fine tooth saw or knife (i used an electric knife) and then shape it by sanding. I used a palm sander, a sanding sponge, and just some sandpaper as apprpriate to feather it out and blend it in with the pad foam.

Since I have deleted the heater I also decided to delete the vent openings on this re-covering. I used duct tape on the underside of the opening to support the foam and filled them in from the top. I'm keeping the ashtray, but if you wanted to get rid of it you could use this method.


Attachments:
KIMG0100.JPG    28.1 KB
KIMG0100.JPG

KIMG0101.JPG    28.8 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
paddy1998 Avatar
paddy1998 Scott Delaney
Joliet, IL, USA   USA
Unfortunately, I was so focused on shaping and sanding the foam without fouling it that I forgot to take any pictures of that part of the process.

After the first shaping and sanding there were a few areas of the foam that had small, irregular recesses. To correct these I used some DAP Plasti Wood (a sandable plastic wood filler) to fill the gaps and sanded again.

On the the glue up. There are many ways to do this. Just follow the instructions on your adhesive (I used Loctite 300 spray).

I began with the underside of the front lip, in the center and worked my way out to the sides, and let the underside of the lip completely dry. Then I flipped in over and the already dried adhesive provided plenty of resistance to do the rest. I worked in in small increments from the center out to the sides, a few inches at a time. That may not have been necessary, but that's how I did it.

As you can see, it isn't perfect and I have some trimming to do on the two front edges.

I'm pleasantly surprised at how easy the project was and how much better it looks on the car.


Attachments:
KIMG0104.JPG    20.5 KB
KIMG0104.JPG

KIMG0105.JPG    38.4 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, Nevada, USA   USA
You could always copy/paste everything you did above and add it to your journal.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

To add your reply, or post your own questions

Members Sign In   or   Create an Account

Registration is FREE and takes less than a minute!


Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster