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Wiring in a pair of electric fans?

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Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, BC, Canada   CAN
In reply to # 1504588 by Doug in Vegas
In reply to # 1504551 by clshore The Triumph temp gages are scaled differently than those used on American cars.
The normal needle positions scare most Americans.

The sending unit offered by your FLAPS reads high.

Mine rode around 3/4 before I replaced the sending unit with the original Lucas. Now it's between 1/4 and 1/2.

Exactly! The only difference in this picture is the sending unit used.

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clshore Carter Shore
Beverly Hills, FL, USA   USA
Until you have an actual temperature that correlates to each hash mark, that's nothing but an idiot light with a needle.
We can assume that 'C' means cold, and 'H' means hot.
How cold? how hot?

USELESS!

racer490 Jerry Bryant
Palm Harbor, USA   USA
Anoher thing is when the gauge gets hot it stays there for a long time My after market gauge fluctuates between 180 and 205 but the Triumph gauge never moves. I concur with the fact that the gauge reads "high" with a flaps sender just replaced mine and got the same results as Tony.

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TheZster Avatar
TheZster Steven Z
SAINT LOUIS, MO, USA   USA
Pardon my ignorance.... but FLAPS? what's that?

Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, BC, Canada   CAN
Friendly Local Autoparts Store.

But that temps sender also applies to most parts vendors. The correct sender can be very hard to find.

TheZster Avatar
TheZster Steven Z
SAINT LOUIS, MO, USA   USA
Ahhh.... gotcha.......

I can't imagine trying to buy anything from FLAPS for my daughter's new baby.... other than appropriate fuses, oil, grease, coolant, etc...... maybe a compression tester or other generic tool.....

Thx..

Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, BC, Canada   CAN
Actually there is a lot of parts and bits that are available, but a certain amount of caution is required.
Universal joints come to mind. I can buy QUALITY* branded UJ locally, get them (often) the same day, and not have to pay shipping (which can be expensive to Canada)

This last spring I bought a LuK brand clutch slave cyl from Rock Auto. At $13 the price was unbeatable.
Bearings are another item. There are no Triumph spacific bearings, there is no reason to order them specifically from a Triumph vendor.

*Not all Triumph parts vendors sell quality parts.

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Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
Trim screws.

TheZster Avatar
TheZster Steven Z
SAINT LOUIS, MO, USA   USA
LOL.... before this gets out of hand..... this stuff goes under the ""etc" category.....

thanks for the feedback though.....

Z

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spitfire50 Avatar
spitfire50 Paul Mugford
Rochester, N.H., USA   USA
In reply to # 1504628 by TheZster Ahhh.... gotcha.......

I can't imagine trying to buy anything from FLAPS for my daughter's new baby.... other than appropriate fuses, oil, grease, coolant, etc...... maybe a compression tester or other generic tool.....

Thx..
Steven,
Be cautious about buying "appropriate fuses" from your FLAPS. The British standards for fuses are different than the USA standards. If you replace a 35 amp British fuse with an American 35 amp fuse you will probably never see the fuse blow, but you may see the wires melt. The correct American equivalent to that 35 amp fuse would be a 17 amp fuse. Of course there is no 17 amp fuse so the usual practice is to use a 20.
But Tony is right, lots of parts are available from your FLAPS. This fall I bought a rebuilt starter from OReilly's. Ordered in the morning, had it in the afternoon, installed before supper.
All the best,
Paul

Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
After I replaced my fusebox I tried 10 amp fuses on all three runs in the Spitfire and have yet to have one blow after over a decade in normal use.

This includes running wiper and heater motors on high in the rain.

re-hiker Robert Ernst
Buchs, Z├╝rich, Switzerland   CHE
Hi Brad
do the wiring as simple and efficient as possible. Use the wire going to the Ignition Coil and go from there to a Relay. The Relay needs 12 V + from the Starter or main connector and an the 12 V + from the Ignition, the Ground connection to the Relay is coming via the Thermo Switch, which can be fitted either in the Top Radiator Hose or the Bottom. Check the wiring diagram at www. revotec.co.uk, as well as all the possibilities you have in view of Thermo Switches. Dont use the Version were the Sensor is put inside of the Hose, my experience is always a slight Leak use the Aluminum Tube Version. On Revotec Controllers you can adjust the switch-on point as per your need.

My Fan is only switching on if I am in Stop and Go Traffic, otherwise no need for additional Cooling.

If you need more Info, send me a Mail.

Good Luck and a good start in to 2018

Robert

Brad.Cogan Avatar
Brad.Cogan Bradley Cogan
RAF Cosford, Shropshire, UK   GBR
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Wray"
1989 Toyota MR2 "Red Mister Two"
2007 Fiat Grande Punto "Pepper"
In reply to # 1504777 by re-hiker Hi Brad
do the wiring as simple and efficient as possible. Use the wire going to the Ignition Coil and go from there to a Relay. The Relay needs 12 V + from the Starter or main connector and an the 12 V + from the Ignition, the Ground connection to the Relay is coming via the Thermo Switch, which can be fitted either in the Top Radiator Hose or the Bottom. Check the wiring diagram at www. revotec.co.uk, as well as all the possibilities you have in view of Thermo Switches. Dont use the Version were the Sensor is put inside of the Hose, my experience is always a slight Leak use the Aluminum Tube Version. On Revotec Controllers you can adjust the switch-on point as per your need.

My Fan is only switching on if I am in Stop and Go Traffic, otherwise no need for additional Cooling.

If you need more Info, send me a Mail.

Good Luck and a good start in to 2018

Robert

Thanks. It's all wired in now. Been working well for about 6 months now. Fuse hasn't blown yet. I might try a smaller fuse as the one that is in the is probably too big.



Brad Cogan

1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500 'Wray'
1989 Toyota MR2 Mk1b AW11 1600 twin cam
2007 Fiat Grande Punto Active 1.2 'Pepper'

TheZster Avatar
TheZster Steven Z
SAINT LOUIS, MO, USA   USA
Question on topic from a newbie to the forum (be gentle)......

I like electric fans...... I don't like thermocouplers run through my radiator hoses nor taped to the radiator..... Why is it not feasible to couple the fan control with the engine temp sensor via a simple electrical connection....??

I've heard the "inlet side of radiator vs outlet side of radiator" argument.... but am of the opinion that engine temps going high need the fan boost - regardless of radiator inlet/outlet temps....

Illuminate my mind - before I order the parts I want to buy....

Thx guys

Z

Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
In reply to # 1504927 by TheZster Question on topic from a newbie to the forum (be gentle)......

I like electric fans...... I don't like thermocouplers run through my radiator hoses nor taped to the radiator..... Why is it not feasible to couple the fan control with the engine temp sensor via a simple electrical connection....??

I've heard the "inlet side of radiator vs outlet side of radiator" argument.... but am of the opinion that engine temps going high need the fan boost - regardless of radiator inlet/outlet temps....

Illuminate my mind - before I order the parts I want to buy....

Thx guys

Z

Unless you are like me and feel comfortable brazing than the best solution is to order a modern replacement in aluminum as many already include a boss for a sensor.

Some even toss in an actual drain for free.

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