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'77+ Light/horn switch

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achurch Avatar
achurch Andrew Church
Lexington, KY, USA   USA
I'm working through restorations on my '77 and my battery keeps dying because my headlights keep turning themselves on. I've figured out my switch won't hold the stalk in neutral position. I took it off and tore it down, everything looks OK, but I'm having a hard time figureing out what holds the position centered and high beam on, and returns to neutral.

Here's some photos of it torn down, any suggestions would be appreciated.



Andrew Church

1977 Spitfire 1500 - 1st Classic

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trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
Andrew, check the froward plastic piece on the shaft. It should have a hook on the bottom end. If that is broken it will not stay in place. I can't tell from the pictures as it's under the switch.
I don't have that part, maybe someone does.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

achurch Avatar
achurch Andrew Church
Lexington, KY, USA   USA
I didn't notice one when I had it apart, but I'll double check, that would explain it not staying in position.

In reply to # 1465170 by trrdster Andrew, check the froward plastic piece on the shaft. It should have a hook on the bottom end. If that is broken it will not stay in place. I can't tell from the pictures as it's under the switch.
I don't have that part, maybe someone does.



Andrew Church

1977 Spitfire 1500 - 1st Classic

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trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
I'm headed out right now, will see if I can get a picture when I return.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

josh bowman Avatar
Spring City, Tennessee, USA   USA
1974 MG MGB
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Spit"
Andrew I've been there, I've done that and I had to buy a new Switch by the time it was over. Shop around those switches sell anywhere from 40 something dollars to 70 something dollars. There is a single wire you can pull and take it off and it will stop your headlights from being on but you'll no longer have the ability to flash your headlights.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-06-19 11:29 AM by josh bowman.

achurch Avatar
achurch Andrew Church
Lexington, KY, USA   USA
I've done some looking and was hoping I could fix it, but a new switch might just be less of a headache. I see the wire you're talking about. I might do that for now until I get a new switch.

In reply to # 1465198 by josh bowman Wayne I've been there, I've done that and I had to buy a new Switch by the time it was over. Shop around those switches sell anywhere from 40 something dollars to 70 something dollars. There is a single wire you can pull and take it off and it will stop your headlights from being on but you'll no longer have the ability to flash your headlights.



Andrew Church

1977 Spitfire 1500 - 1st Classic

josh bowman Avatar
Spring City, Tennessee, USA   USA
1974 MG MGB
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Spit"
Just unplug it, in the USA flashing lights at someone could cause a road rage event..........and my money is NOT on the Spitfire! Even a VW bug can be intimidating.

The one I got for my 77 was from Moss motors at $48.99 (570-250), that's the good news, it plugged in and worked perfect, except the arm is bent a bit so that it hits the back of your fingers when you turn the steering wheel. I've been trying to gently bend it back, and have had some success, but if I keep at it, I'll most likely break it. Now my column could be out of adjustment, but I've moved all that I can to get the steering wheel out and still find the switch is a little tight. There is a thread on here where a guy took a half nut and and small puller and bent his. I just leave my lights on bright and no one seems to complain about me bright lighting there oil pans smiling smiley, and that keeps it out of the way.

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Davebert Avatar
Davebert Dave C
Montreal, Quebec, Canada   CAN
I have taken this apart a long time ago when I had problem with the hi-beams, it turned out be that little plastic piece. On the other side there is a small clip that is used to hold the stock in place between low and hi beam. I did fix it eventually by making a new piece from a gray PVC irrigation coupling because it was almost the same thickness.

That was about 12 years ago and I think I remembered that I had to make a slot in order to get the new piece over the stock and than used staples and a soldering iron melt the stables on and to weld the plastic back together. Because there was no way to fit the new piece on without breaking other parts of the switch.

My horn also did not work I ended up cutting back the black plastic on the stock, wrapped a new wire multi time onto the metal portion and heat shrink it in to place. Everything is still working on that repair switch, but not a smooth as original.


achurch Avatar
achurch Andrew Church
Lexington, KY, USA   USA
Yeah that piece pretty much fell out when I took the switch apart. I'm guessing the hook that's supposed to be there is broke. I'll get a picture tonight an upload it.



Andrew Church

1977 Spitfire 1500 - 1st Classic

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trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
Sometimes NEW is cheaper than all the trouble to fix old and broken. It's getting on to 40 years old and plastic, no chance.
Of all the switches and under dash pieces I have, 1 in 5 can be made useful. The funny thing is the same piece is bad of all of them, so a handful will not help to fix one good one, generally.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

Davebert Avatar
Davebert Dave C
Montreal, Quebec, Canada   CAN
Boy I am a pack rat, I still have the left over pieces and the first prototype of the plastic piece laying around my office. Here are a couple of pictures of the material I used, the original broken piece and the first prototype that I made. I had to cut a notch on the original piece to get it off the stock and you can still see where I tried to hot melt a shorten staple onto the prototype.

That was before the time of 3D printers, I guess someone can now probably get the measurements and print a copy using ABS of Nylon.




achurch Avatar
achurch Andrew Church
Lexington, KY, USA   USA
Wow I'm impressed you found that and also figured out and made your own.

If I was back home, I'd be able to get my buddy to print me off something quick, but for $45 for a new switch I'm thinking I may as well as just do that.



Andrew Church

1977 Spitfire 1500 - 1st Classic

Davebert Avatar
Davebert Dave C
Montreal, Quebec, Canada   CAN
I remember because I just moved into a new office last year and had to organize my stuff for the move. At the time I had already bought a new one, and thought I had nothing to loose by giving it a try. Still have the new one in its original box in case my fix fails. That was the time when I was still a bachelor and had more free time before a wife and kid.

TheFlash300 Avatar
TheFlash300 Dave Gutknecht
Rochester Hills, Michigan, USA   USA
1979 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Lil Spit"
I have an issue with that switch too. I have Low Beams (neutral position) and Flash-to-pass (push forward), but the switch will not pull back to hold Hi Beams. I am considering tearing down the Switch as well to investigate. Am I correct in my understanding of the switch functions?

achurch Avatar
achurch Andrew Church
Lexington, KY, USA   USA
In reply to # 1465656 by TheFlash300 I have an issue with that switch too. I have Low Beams (neutral position) and Flash-to-pass (push forward), but the switch will not pull back to hold Hi Beams. I am considering tearing down the Switch as well to investigate. Am I correct in my understanding of the switch functions?

Sounds about right. Does your switch return to neutral position OK?

I ordered a new one from BPNW, was $45. Be carefull tearing it down as there are lots of small springs and retainers that easily pop out. I was lucky and they were contained to my work bench.



Andrew Church

1977 Spitfire 1500 - 1st Classic

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