TRExp

Spitfire & GT6 Forum

Latest Project - 1968 MKI GT6

Moss Motors
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor

ArcticOne Avatar
ArcticOne Silver Member John Bulmer
Medicine Hat, AB, Canada   CAN
Thanks!!

I looked at the pictures and do see what you mean. Funny thing is that I was comparing them and from straight comparison they are less than 1/4 inch difference.

BUT, and I bet my BIG butt, that I will measure at least one or twice prior to starting the reassembly.

john



John B
Alberta, Canada

DON'T DREAM IT .... BE IT!

In the Igloo:

1968 Triumph GT6 MK I
1968 Triumph GT6 MK I (FE O2)
1988 SaaB 900S

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
ArcticOne Avatar
ArcticOne Silver Member John Bulmer
Medicine Hat, AB, Canada   CAN
My drawn out rear bearing replacement continues. A day of work, -30 C outside and two major relocations coming up mean that I got to get Rudy the Red Car in to driving condition. So I spend a Friday started on the refit of the rear end.

Final bits of disassembly have occurred - my trunnion was in rather sad shape (see pic). Fortunately I did pick up a couple of replacements along the way.

First step in the reassembly is to make sure all the parts are nice and clean. CHECK
NEXT: Install grease flinger. DOH!! No tool in the house for this. Off to the hardware store for a nice chunk of pipe.

I have a question for those that have done this before:

The GT6 Workshop Manual says to install the needle rollers and inner oil seal in to the trunnion. Then place grease flinger on the axle, followed by the trunnion assembly. It then states to drift on the ball race.

I purchased a trunnion kit from SpitBits and it comes with the needle rollers, inner oil seal and ball race already installed inside the trunnion.

My question: After packing it with grease, can I simply install the trunnion kit (as it was purchased) on the axle?? Or do I need to remove the ball race and follow the Workshop Manual instructions?

And follow up - is an acceptable diameter of pipe good enough to use to drift on the ball race, or do I need the special tool quoted in the Workshop Manual?

The project is getting there.

Thanks

john



John B
Alberta, Canada

DON'T DREAM IT .... BE IT!

In the Igloo:

1968 Triumph GT6 MK I
1968 Triumph GT6 MK I (FE O2)
1988 SaaB 900S


Attachments:
20180112_120221.jpg    70.9 KB
20180112_120221.jpg

clshore Carter Shore
Beverly Hills, FL, USA   USA
Here's the exploded view of the axle:
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID008043

Here's the needle bearing, the needles are never supplied loose, they come assembled into an enclosing housing:
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-117853

Here's what the 'trunnion' looks like, undamaged:
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-204226R

The shaft seal gets pressed into the bore on the end end of the 'trunnion':
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-128978

I suggest using a file or a piece of sandpaper to smooth the inner edge of the egg shaped divot in the edge,
so that the seal casing will fit smoothly when you press it in.
You can see that the egg shaped divot might result in a gap when the seal is pressed in, that could allow grease to leak out.
Not to worry, it's not structural, you could fill any gap with a bit of JB Weld or similar filler, even silicone, to prevent leakage.
Use brake Cleaner or degreaser on the edge to ensure that the filler will adhere to the metal.

Good luck!

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
ArcticOne Avatar
ArcticOne Silver Member John Bulmer
Medicine Hat, AB, Canada   CAN
Hi Carter and thanks for the reply.

The trunnion in the picture is my old one and is now scrapped.

I purchased a new trunnion. The new trunnion came pre-assembled with the inner oil seal, needle bearings and ballrace already installed. When installing this on to the axle, do I need to remove the ballrace first?

john



John B
Alberta, Canada

DON'T DREAM IT .... BE IT!

In the Igloo:

1968 Triumph GT6 MK I
1968 Triumph GT6 MK I (FE O2)
1988 SaaB 900S

ArcticOne Avatar
ArcticOne Silver Member John Bulmer
Medicine Hat, AB, Canada   CAN
Had fun today and made some progress as I have a trunnion back on the axle.

Reassembly continues.

It was fairly easy to get everything installed and it went smoothly once I got some galvanized nipples to use as presses (along with a hammer).



John B
Alberta, Canada

DON'T DREAM IT .... BE IT!

In the Igloo:

1968 Triumph GT6 MK I
1968 Triumph GT6 MK I (FE O2)
1988 SaaB 900S


Attachments:
20180112_154010 75.jpg    74.9 KB
20180112_154010 75.jpg

clshore Carter Shore
Beverly Hills, FL, USA   USA
In reply to # 1507150 by ArcticOne Had fun today and made some progress as I have a trunnion back on the axle.

Reassembly continues.

It was fairly easy to get everything installed and it went smoothly once I got some galvanized nipples to use as presses (along with a hammer).

Apologies, I misunderstood.
Looking good.
I recommend removing all the grease from the tapered part of the axle before you fit the wheel flange to the end.
The taper on the axle and inside taper of the flange are engineered to directly mate together without any lubricant.
The inside taper actually expands slightly, developing a spring force, and the friction fit developed between the parts is what transmits the force.
Sort of like a Morse taper or Jacobs taper, if you are familiar with machine tooling.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

To add your reply, or post your own questions




Registration is FREE and takes less than a minute!


Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster





Join The Club

Sign in to ask questions, share photos, and access all website features

Your Cars

1960 Triumph TR3A

Text Size

Larger Smaller
Reset Save

Sponsor Links