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High Compression spitfire pistons

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SpitMan Avatar
SpitMan Doug Walls
Brandywine, Maryland, USA   USA
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "70 Spit"
1998 Chevrolet Corvette "Silver Fox"
2007 Chevrolet Silverado
2013 Chevrolet Malibu "Pearl Baby"
Hi Marcus,

Long time no talk. Good to hear from you.

When I was adjusting the engine some time ago, I recall contacting Dimitri Elgin regarding the tappet settings with the cam and he suggested opening them to about .014 inch which is more than standard (.010) but to play with it a bit to get the proper torque I was looking for. With that and the many adjustments I have done to the advance mapping, the engine responds well but the true measure will be, as I said, when I get it on the road, break it in and do some timed trial runs. I am too cheap to do a dyno test but will try one of the software programs which should give me some measure of getting the engine to some degree of peak performance.

I hope all is well Down Under,


R/ Doug/SpitMan

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69Mk3Spit Avatar
69Mk3Spit Silver Member Dino Finelli
Oakville, ontario, Canada   CAN
Thanks Marcus

It was loads of fun.

I think I'll hold off on the WEBERS..............for nowsmileys with beer

69Mk3Spit Avatar
69Mk3Spit Silver Member Dino Finelli
Oakville, ontario, Canada   CAN
Thanks Doug

The mods you're doing are great!

Keep us posted on the progress!

Dino

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Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, British Columbia, Canada   CAN
Very impressed by the flat torque curve (even if I got a crick in my neck seeing it ;-) ) at first I thought I was misunderstanding things.

What cam are you using?

It was very common for our cars to develope 'flat spots' around 3500 rpm. Very difficult to iron out!

69Mk3Spit Avatar
69Mk3Spit Silver Member Dino Finelli
Oakville, ontario, Canada   CAN
Hi Tony

I'm using a cam that Wishbone Classics developed. I found WBC great they answered all questions and were very technical. They grind them themselves from blanks so there were able to find the perfect grind. The car idles great and is always ready to go, even though it has a lightweight fly wheel and the uprated cam!

Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, British Columbia, Canada   CAN
Do you have specs on that cam?

In reply to # 1480274 by 69Mk3Spit Hi Tony

I'm using a cam that Wishbone Classics developed. I found WBC great they answered all questions and were very technical. They grind them themselves from blanks so there were able to find the perfect grind. The car idles great and is always ready to go, even though it has a lightweight fly wheel and the uprated cam!

69Mk3Spit Avatar
69Mk3Spit Silver Member Dino Finelli
Oakville, ontario, Canada   CAN
Here it is

Mind you that is just the cam, there has been a bunch of work with rockers, valve spring, push rods valves etc..

Jason worked closely with Active to ensure all was done properly. Active is a great place to be at; they an award wining engine rebuild shop. I saw them dyno a ROUSH engine pushing 800+footpounds at 8k rpm scary stuff!! They've also had some vintage Ferrari builds worth over 200k, not to mention my 1300 motor, they were all hovering over to see the results, true engine builders!

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claytoncnc Avatar
claytoncnc Gold Member Marcus Clayton
Melbourne, Ivanhoe, Australia   AUS
In reply to # 1480319 by 69Mk3Spit Here it is

Mind you that is just the cam, there has been a bunch of work with rockers, valve spring, push rods valves etc..

Jason worked closely with Active to ensure all was done properly. Active is a great place to be at; they an award wining engine rebuild shop. I saw them dyno a ROUSH engine pushing 800+footpounds at 8k rpm scary stuff!! They've also had some vintage Ferrari builds worth over 200k, not to mention my 1300 motor, they were all hovering over to see the results, true engine builders!

Looks like a nice cam, the timing is very close to the stock mk3 cam, (270 deg seat) but with about .050 , and .030 extra lift on the inlet and exhaust respectively, that would be effective with the much stiffer valve train that you have chosen.
A nice combination

clshore Carter Shore
Beverly Hills, Florida, USA   USA
In reply to # 1480724 by claytoncnc
In reply to # 1480319 by 69Mk3Spit Here it is

Mind you that is just the cam, there has been a bunch of work with rockers, valve spring, push rods valves etc..

Jason worked closely with Active to ensure all was done properly. Active is a great place to be at; they an award wining engine rebuild shop. I saw them dyno a ROUSH engine pushing 800+footpounds at 8k rpm scary stuff!! They've also had some vintage Ferrari builds worth over 200k, not to mention my 1300 motor, they were all hovering over to see the results, true engine builders!

Looks like a nice cam, the timing is very close to the stock mk3 cam, (270 deg seat) but with about .050 , and .030 extra lift on the inlet and exhaust respectively, that would be effective with the much stiffer valve train that you have chosen.
A nice combination

Kai (Wishbone Classics) posts here occasionally.
ISTR some discussions where he talked a bit about the cam development.
It's likely an asymmetrical grind, with intake/exhaust lobe profiles featuring different duration, lift, and timing.
Note the Lobe Separation Angle is 110, which probably helps to deliver the broad flat torque curve and mild street manners.

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69Mk3Spit Avatar
69Mk3Spit Silver Member Dino Finelli
Oakville, ontario, Canada   CAN
Hey Doug

How are things going with your project? It's almost 2 monthsdrinking smiley.

Car's been driving great loads of fun, put on 6k miles this summer drove it to many shows and it performed great. Going to put the car away soon as I started working on my next project... got to go on the Jag forum for that one.

SpitMan Avatar
SpitMan Doug Walls
Brandywine, Maryland, USA   USA
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "70 Spit"
1998 Chevrolet Corvette "Silver Fox"
2007 Chevrolet Silverado
2013 Chevrolet Malibu "Pearl Baby"
Hi Dino,

Wellllll, After getting everything ready for paint, as I ran my hands over the car and had it in the bright sunshine, I did not lot the fit at the bottoms of the doors. So, I put the paint on hold until I decide if I am going to remove the doors and reshape the bottoms. My doors never fit very well anyway but I wanted this to be as perfect as I can get it, since I have only been working on it for 4 YEARS!!! Anyway, getting close and not a lot of time to redo the doors. So, as I get time I am doing the little things. So far the headlight parts and cabling have been refurbished and working on interior upholstery panels, all of which are being redone/re-cut etc.. You know the little things.

Looks like I will have it ready for Spring at the rate I am going with other home fix-up projects.

Really getting antsy about wanting to get behind the wheel and drive the little Spitfire!

How are you making out with your Spitfire?


Regards,
Doug/SpitMan

69Mk3Spit Avatar
69Mk3Spit Silver Member Dino Finelli
Oakville, ontario, Canada   CAN
Hey Doug

I'll most likely drive down to Maryland for a show next summer, hope to see all your work in person. Working on fuel injection system on the Jag over the winter as my spit is all done!!smileys with beer

Born Loser Avatar
Born Loser Silver Member Matthew Taylor
Land O Lake, Florida, USA   USA
In reply to # 1492174 by SpitMan
I did not lot the fit at the bottoms of the doors. So, I put the paint on hold until I decide if I am going to remove the doors and reshape the bottoms.

Same issue when we did ours. I did 2 things to make it right. 1) Oak piece of 4x4 and a BFH. I pounded the bottom edge until they tucked in evenly. Then I used 3 coats (a total of 9 passes) of very heavy fill primer, thinning it more each coat, and sanding it with a stick. I did that for every seam, and they look far better than factory.



Matthew
1960 Triumph TR3a
1970 Triumph Spitfire MK 3
2012 Mini Cooper SS Convertible


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SpitMan Avatar
SpitMan Doug Walls
Brandywine, Maryland, USA   USA
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "70 Spit"
1998 Chevrolet Corvette "Silver Fox"
2007 Chevrolet Silverado
2013 Chevrolet Malibu "Pearl Baby"
Would love to have you stop by Dino or maybe I will meet you at the show. Either way, you are welcomed.

Hopefully, it all will be ready for spring.

Going to wait for hot weather to install the top. hot smiley

In reply to # 1492191 by 69Mk3Spit Hey Doug

I'll most likely drive down to Maryland for a show next summer, hope to see all your work in person. Working on fuel injection system on the Jag over the winter as my spit is all done!!smileys with beer

SpitMan Avatar
SpitMan Doug Walls
Brandywine, Maryland, USA   USA
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "70 Spit"
1998 Chevrolet Corvette "Silver Fox"
2007 Chevrolet Silverado
2013 Chevrolet Malibu "Pearl Baby"
Mathew,
I always like looking at your car. A real beauty. Inspiration for me to fix mine right!

I took a look at my spitfire today and can see that I may be able to get it within 1/8 inch but have to be careful not to throw the other end (latch end) off too much. I will see if I can hammer and dolly it a bit first without putting a crease in it where the skin meets the door's internal frame. I like the idea of the multiple coats of the filler primer. It is a method I have used before. I just don't want to over do it.

If the hammer and dolly don't work then I will get out the big hammer!!!

Thanks for the suggestions,

Doug/SpitMan

In reply to # 1492194 by Born Loser
In reply to # 1492174 by SpitMan
I did not lot the fit at the bottoms of the doors. So, I put the paint on hold until I decide if I am going to remove the doors and reshape the bottoms.

Same issue when we did ours. I did 2 things to make it right. 1) Oak piece of 4x4 and a BFH. I pounded the bottom edge until they tucked in evenly. Then I used 3 coats (a total of 9 passes) of very heavy fill primer, thinning it more each coat, and sanding it with a stick. I did that for every seam, and they look far better than factory.

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