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Assembling Windows and Waist Seals

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smdl Gold Member Shaun Laughy
Courtenay, BC, Canada   CAN
Hi, folks.

When I recently purchased my TR4A, it came without the side glass, inner waist seals and inner door/window handles installed. The window regulators are in place and working fine, and the channel assembly that attaches to the regulator is still attached to the bottom of the door glass. Being that I didn't remove all the pieces, I'm trying to get up to speed on what I need to do to reinstall everything, and while I have ordered some pieces, I think I'm still missing some things (there are bags of unlabeled hardware that came with the car, and I am still trying to sort through those...). I have been searching and reading for a few hours, so I think I am starting to get a reasonable idea of what I need to do, but would appreciate some help in confirming my assumptions and answering a few questions.

First, the following describes my assumption of how I should go about the installation in general terms:

  • Insert the glass and leave it at the bottom of the door
  • Install the inner waist seal into the clips
  • Using the special tool (that I still need to make) to pull the clips up onto the door.
  • Lift the window up and attach it to the regulator.
  • Reinstall the door panel.
  • Reinstall the interior handles.

Can anyone please confirm that I have got things in the right general order?

Now, here are several questions that I haven't been able to find clear answers for yet (or I just haven't been able to fully understand what I read):

1. I think, from what I have seen, that the clip retaining the inner waist (fuzzy) seal should be orientated so that the larger channel with the sharp barbs attaches to the metal of the door, and the small protrusion of the clip attaches to the seal, correct?
2. Being that I didn't remove the clips, how do I know where they are to be placed along the door and seal? How many are to be installed on each side?
3. There are remnants of the 'water curtain' assembly inside the door cavity. Historically, on other cars, I have seen these installed between the door and the interior door panel, rather than within the door cavity. What is the correct installation for these cars?
4. When attaching the door glass to the regulator, I see in the parts manual that a leather washer and 'retainer, stud' are to be used to insulate and retain the glass. As I don't seem to have these, can anyone let me know where I might get some (I have looked without success on the websites of a few of the usual suspects)? Or, if anyone has information or pictures showing what these look like, perhaps I can find something equivalent locally. I suppose I could probably use a rubber washer instead of leather, and probably some sort of a circlip would work for the retainer, but it would be nice to have a better idea of what the original hardware looked like.
5. Should I put any type of grease or lubricant on the window mechanism?
6. On the passenger door, there is a 'Link Assembly' (AU17) installed (although it appears that it is missing a retainer, too). See attached picture with item circled in red. However, on the driver's side, this item is not currently installed, and yet the door mechanisms both seem to work. Can anyone help me understand what this items is intended to do?
7. Is there anything else I should be considering here?

Sorry for all the questions, but I kind of feel like I have walked into the theater half way through the movie, and am trying to comprehend the plot, characters, etc. spinning smiley sticking its tongue out

Sincere thanks in advance for any advice!

Cheers,
Shaun

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Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, Alabama, USA   USA
Shaun,
I just did this a couple of months ago and it not hard to do if you leave everything loose. Desert TR needed to have the drivers window installed and the door was partially disassembled when I got it. I found some of the rubber material that goes between the glass and the regulator and assembled that out of the car using a little lubricant. I loosened all of the guts inside the door and slid the window in letting it rest as far down as possible. This gave me room to attach the waist seals and it was pretty easy to do. The waist seals have little indentations where the clips go and I had to trim one of mine since it was too long. Once they were in I started attaching everything and aligning it to fit the windshield frame and top. The PO, Jim, who passed away installed all new tracks/runners except the rear on the drivers side which was still on BO, so I rebuilt a used one using the Velcro method and it works great.
As far as using grease is concerned, I just put a little dab on my finger and applied it where I thought it should go. The hardest part of a door/window repair is putting the door handle and window crank back on and getting that pin in place. I use a pair of large hemostats to hold the pin, but others advocate using a piece of rod with a groove cut in it so it will snap off after insertion. It’s truly a royal pita!
Good luck, Rut

Reddragon Avatar
Reddragon Dale M
Chesapeake, Virginia, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4 "Road Runner"
1974 Triumph TR6 "Tweety"
Shaun

I have a 1963 Tr 4. From the pics you have supplied I can not tell if your glass to regulator is the same as mine.

Here are a couple of shots of the little clips that hold mine in place. There were plastic washers in place of the leather ones. If you local any of these clips please let me know as one was missing and I broke one of the other ones.

Red.

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bteichgraber Avatar
bteichgraber Brian Teichgraber
Tsawwassen, BC, Canada   CAN
Yes I'm in need of on clip as well

ducbsa Bruce Metcalf
Berryville, Virginia, USA   USA
I've used e-clips there.

smdl Gold Member Shaun Laughy
Courtenay, BC, Canada   CAN
Hi, Rut.

Thanks for the info! Unfortunately, The waist seals I have don't seem to have any indentations for the clips (see pics attached), but TRF supplied a total of 10 clips, so I am assuming 5 each side. I guess they should be spaced evenly across the seal? Also, was I correct that the larger portion of the clip should attach to the metal of the door, and the smaller tang on the side attaches to the seal?

I know I've seen reference to the Velcro method, so will see if I can track down the specifics. Thanks for that.

Yeah, from what I have read, I'm really not looking forward to inserting the pins in the handles. Might try coating them in a small amount of grease to see if that will hold them in place during assembly.

Will report back on how it goes.

Shaun

In reply to # 1500854 by Perdido Shaun,
I just did this a couple of months ago and it not hard to do if you leave everything loose. Desert TR needed to have the drivers window installed and the door was partially disassembled when I got it. I found some of the rubber material that goes between the glass and the regulator and assembled that out of the car using a little lubricant. I loosened all of the guts inside the door and slid the window in letting it rest as far down as possible. This gave me room to attach the waist seals and it was pretty easy to do. The waist seals have little indentations where the clips go and I had to trim one of mine since it was too long. Once they were in I started attaching everything and aligning it to fit the windshield frame and top. The PO, Jim, who passed away installed all new tracks/runners except the rear on the drivers side which was still on BO, so I rebuilt a used one using the Velcro method and it works great.
As far as using grease is concerned, I just put a little dab on my finger and applied it where I thought it should go. The hardest part of a door/window repair is putting the door handle and window crank back on and getting that pin in place. I use a pair of large hemostats to hold the pin, but others advocate using a piece of rod with a groove cut in it so it will snap off after insertion. It’s truly a royal pita!
Good luck, Rut


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smdl Gold Member Shaun Laughy
Courtenay, BC, Canada   CAN
Red, sincere thanks for sharing these pics! Incredibly helpful to know what it is I'm looking for -- either in my pile of hardware, or new.

Will let you know what I come up with.

Cheers,
Shaun

In reply to # 1500859 by Reddragon Shaun

I have a 1963 Tr 4. From the pics you have supplied I can not tell if your glass to regulator is the same as mine.

Here are a couple of shots of the little clips that hold mine in place. There were plastic washers in place of the leather ones. If you local any of these clips please let me know as one was missing and I broke one of the other ones.

Red.

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smdl Gold Member Shaun Laughy
Courtenay, BC, Canada   CAN
Yeah, that will likely be what I do if I can't find the originals. Thanks, Bruce.

Shaun

In reply to # 1500899 by ducbsa I've used e-clips there.

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, Alabama, USA   USA
Tooth side of the clip goes on the metal of the door and space them evenly. When pulling up on the clip I like to hold the seal down with my thump and index finger.
Rut

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smdl Gold Member Shaun Laughy
Courtenay, BC, Canada   CAN
Perfect. Thanks, Rut!

Shaun

Reddragon Avatar
Reddragon Dale M
Chesapeake, Virginia, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4 "Road Runner"
1974 Triumph TR6 "Tweety"
Bruce

How did you get the E clip to stay on the rod? Did you put a a groove in it? If so how was that done?

Thanks Red

ducbsa Bruce Metcalf
Berryville, Virginia, USA   USA
In reply to # 1501052 by Reddragon Bruce

How did you get the E clip to stay on the rod? Did you put a a groove in it? If so how was that done?

Thanks Red

I was referring to item #87 here and the stubs on the window regulator have grooves.

Reddragon Avatar
Reddragon Dale M
Chesapeake, Virginia, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4 "Road Runner"
1974 Triumph TR6 "Tweety"
Bruce

That is what i was looking for. Thank you. Red

smdl Gold Member Shaun Laughy
Courtenay, BC, Canada   CAN
Hi, folks.

Well, I have now completed this job, and really don't care to ever have to do it again! That said, I did learn a great deal, and could undoubtedly do things a lot simpler/faster in future, but I certainly won't be making a pastime out of this.

A couple of thoughts that might help others (in addition to what else I have seen posted already):

  • Having the right tool for this job is important. I decided to make my own, and was very happy with the outcome. What I did was to adapt a frosting knife/spatula to the purpose after my wife so thoughtfully gave it to me (I love that women). These are available almost anywhere that sells kitchen stuff (see the attached picture for a sample of what they look like). They are made of stainless, so a little effort is needed to form the end (I used a hammer and vice), and the result is very strong -- especially for how thin it is. Get a fairly long one, and preferably one with a riveted handle so it will withstand the pulling force. The great thing about this tool is that it is long enough that you can easily slide it down into the opening in the door (if you have the door panel off) and drop another clip in it without having to pull it out the top. Oh, and these are CHEAP to buy!
  • To retain the clip in the tool, I used a little bit of grease. Made it very stable, and I just added a bit of grease every few clips to keep the stickiness.
  • I did not bother to cut or drill any notches in the tool as it just wasn't necessary.
  • When doing the second door, I decided to insall the clips on the door first, and then press the seal on after (while still pulling up on each of the clips). The nice thing about this was that I could clearly see where the clips were in relation to the metal door edge, so they were much easier to install. The downside was that it was that it was not easy to install the seal, and it would have been easy to push the clips back off if not careful. Not sure that I would recommend this method, but the second door went much faster than the first.

Anyway, I am now in the process of installing the interior door handles and window cranks -- which is also a really fun job. I'm concentrating really hard, and hoping that I can magically cause my body to generate another limb. That should make the job much easier. spinning smiley sticking its tongue out

Thanks again for all the helpful input.

Cheers,
Shaun


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