TRExp

TR4 & TR4A Forum

Churchill hub puller

Moss Motors
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor

bteichgraber Avatar
bteichgraber Brian Teichgraber
Tsawwassen, BC, Canada   CAN
Hello
Looking to rent a hub puller
I'm in Vancouver bc

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
Those things are scarce as hen's teeth! I don't know of anyone willing to rent one out. Usually better to pull the half shafts with the hub still attached, and ship them off to someone with the tool.

AFAIK, Gene will still do it for free (you pay shipping both ways).
Eugene Wellenstein
ewellenstein@itol.com
(920) 388-3748

Or, you can read about his version of the tool at
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffOTIyYmQ4MzgtNDM0Yy00OTY1LTljNzEtZDMyNjM5OWFkZTQ4



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

BL50 Avatar
BL50 Silver Member Brian Leslie
Grosse Pointe, Michigan, USA   USA
Gene did mine a couple years ago ... good guy. Unfortunately, I only found him after a futile search for the tool and after warping one hub. I bought another hub from Gene and he pressed off the other for free. Money well spent.

Brian

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
oldhokie Gold Member DAN ALLEN
Myersville, Maryland, USA   USA
In reply to # 1497962 by bteichgraber Hello
Looking to rent a hub puller
I'm in Vancouver bc

I assume this is the special service tool you are talking about. If so it's easy to make an "authentic" repop. I'd undertake that project if you would like to put up 1/2 the cost of the material in the form of a rental fee - due when it's ready to ship. By the time I pay cutting and shipping costs the material is going to be close to $80. I'll pay postage to you - you pay return postage. Even going international it's cheaper than trying to mail the axle assemblies to someone. And I guarantee it works just like the factory M.86A or your money back winking smiley

If interested email or call me.

EDIT (18:30 11/15/2017): - liked the idea so much I went ahead and ordered material to make one....

Dan

oldhokie@windyridgefarm.us
301.655.0631





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-11-15 05:38 PM by oldhokie.


Member Services:
Engineering, design and fabrication of custom. hard to find, or NLA parts and tools. No job too small.
oldbagpipe Avatar
oldbagpipe Alec Buchan
Bellingham, WA, USA   USA
Brian, if you follow through with this, you can use my address to avoid international postal costs.

oldhokie Gold Member DAN ALLEN
Myersville, Maryland, USA   USA
In reply to # 1498074 by oldbagpipe Brian, if you follow through with this, you can use my address to avoid international postal costs.

That's kind of you Alec. Domestic flat rate would be $12.50 each way. Here is what I have in mind.
Turned from a piece of 3" long x 5.75" round 1045 steel bar with 3/4-16 UNF jack screw.
That and a good 1/2" impact wrench out to make short work of the job on or off the vehicle.

Dan



Member Services:
Engineering, design and fabrication of custom. hard to find, or NLA parts and tools. No job too small.
Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, British Columbia, Canada   CAN
Dan, for what it is worth, I made something much the same for a Hub Puller (for use on Spitfires and Heralds)

I used a grade 8 bolt and a nut that is held captive (by a couple of tabs) on the inside of the 'Top Hat'

My thoughts were, if ever the threads stripped I could just buy a nut and bolt.

A bonus feature. With two extra 5/16" holes in the flange, some threaded rods and nuts, it doubles as a wheel puller for ride-on lawn mowers and garden tractors.

bteichgraber Avatar
bteichgraber Brian Teichgraber
Tsawwassen, BC, Canada   CAN
Sounds like a plane. I'll call you Thursday

oldhokie Gold Member DAN ALLEN
Myersville, Maryland, USA   USA
In reply to # 1498116 by Tonyfixit Dan, for what it is worth, I made something much the same for a Hub Puller (for use on Spitfires and Heralds)

I used a grade 8 bolt and a nut that is held captive (by a couple of tabs) on the inside of the 'Top Hat'

My thoughts were, if ever the threads stripped I could just buy a nut and bolt.

A bonus feature. With two extra 5/16" holes in the flange, some threaded rods and nuts, it doubles as a wheel puller for ride-on lawn mowers and garden tractors.

I like the way you think. I actually considered using a captive insert to get a little more thread engagement and add hex flats for a wrench (torque arm) but decided to go the simpler route first. I doubt the threads will fail if they are lubricated with a little EP grease before each use. The torque arm is probably the bigger issue. It may be difficult to keep the hub from turning if you don't have an impact wrench. In retrospect I probably should have popped for another inch of bar and machined a hex right into the top of the hat. I'm still mulling alternative ways of holding the hub - e.g. hook wrench and cheater bar. I don't want to get unnecessarily complicated. As is there is a lot of material to remove - I'd guess at least an hour of machining time to hog out that hat.

Dan


Member Services:
Engineering, design and fabrication of custom. hard to find, or NLA parts and tools. No job too small.
Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, British Columbia, Canada   CAN
I needed to keep the machining to a minimum, as I had very limited access to facilities at the time.

The top hat is three peices welded together, the captive nut is on the inside.

A couple of beads of weld on the outside help a BF Pipewrench grab it, if an inpact gun is not available when being used.

A spot of weld was also mad on the threaded end of the bolt and ground to a small point, to help 'centre' andlocate the bolt on the hub.

Just some food for thought :-)

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
oldhokie Gold Member DAN ALLEN
Myersville, Maryland, USA   USA
In reply to # 1498181 by Tonyfixit I needed to keep the machining to a minimum, as I had very limited access to facilities at the time.

The top hat is three peices welded together, the captive nut is on the inside.

A couple of beads of weld on the outside help a BF Pipewrench grab it, if an inpact gun is not available when being used.

A spot of weld was also mad on the threaded end of the bolt and ground to a small point, to help 'centre' and locate the bolt on the hub.

Just some food for thought :-)

All good ideas.

I considered round tube, plate, welding, and/or screw threads as alternate forms of construction to keep material costs and machining down. Unfortunately it didn't confused smiley
If there were any real demand for these I could get the round bar a LOT cheaper locally. A two foot length (6 pullers) would be about $200 delivered free to the shop.

A removable/lubricated pilot in the end of the cap screw is already in the plan. I didn't bother modifying the canned screw AutoCad drew for me.

A few holes drilled in the side of the "hat" will let me use something like this to hold it - cheater bar on the spanner if needed for leverage

TOH



Member Services:
Engineering, design and fabrication of custom. hard to find, or NLA parts and tools. No job too small.
bteichgraber Avatar
bteichgraber Brian Teichgraber
Tsawwassen, BC, Canada   CAN
wow that looks good



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-11-19 10:19 PM by bteichgraber.

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
Good luck with that! My experience wasn't so good, the third hub I tried to break was so tight that I wound up standing on the end of a 6 ft length of pipe. Never did get it apart with the puller but did pretty well ruin the puller. Crushed a 1" ACME threaded rod lengthwise, too.

Finally got it off, though, using a 20 ton press and some custom modified press plates; plus hammering on the shaft to set up vibration.

There does seem to be a lot of variation though, probably depending on how hard the car has been driven; so maybe you'll get lucky. I do hope so (not being sarcastic for once).



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
James E Avatar
James E Silver Member Jimmy Campbell
Bedford, Va, USA   USA
At the shop we had the same problem with a spitfire, we're going to pull the half shaft out and use a press.

Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, British Columbia, Canada   CAN
Once in a while they just won't seperate. In my experiance if they do not seperate with the churchhill tool the hub flange bends (in a press) or the axel is toast anyway.

Back in the UK I had a hydraulic version of the Churchill tool. It looked much the same, but a small diameter threaded screw pressed a small hydrulic piston onto a larger diameter piston the pressed on the axel.

It worked really well!

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

To add your reply, or post your own questions

Members Sign In   or   Create an Account

Registration is FREE and takes less than a minute!


Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster





Join The Club

Sign in to ask questions, share photos, and access all website features

Your Cars

1975 Triumph Spitfire 1500

Text Size

Larger Smaller
Reset Save

Sponsor Links