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Quality of Moss Pistons and Liners

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Jhallc Jeffrey Chormann
Acton, MA, USA   USA
I finally got the frozen pistons out of my liners after much effort. They only had 3K miles on them before the car was parked 27 years ago by the PO. After soaking them in Mystery Oil, PB blaster, ATF since June the only thing that worked in getting them out was to literally set them on fire. It worked but, they are too far gone to use. The corrosion/pitting was just too much and only one liner might be useable. I've included a couple of photos of the piston and "eternal" flame for anyone interested.

So, I'm now in the market for a piston/liner set and I saw that Moss has a sale on both the 87mm and 86mm sizes. The 87mm are listed as "aftermarket" with no designation for the 86mm set. The pictures look the same in the catalog. Does anyone know what manufacturer they use for their pistons? I searched and couldn't find anything on the name brand. Anyone have an opinion on the quality of the Moss parts. I'm just looking for decent quality to get this car on the road.
Also since the price is the same for the larger 87mm pistons there doesn't seem to be any reason not go slightly bigger. Thanks

Jhallc

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twomanytriumphs Avatar
twomanytriumphs Gold Member Kyle Darby
Kelso, Washington, USA   USA
1965 Triumph TR4 "My Baby"
1966 Triumph 2000 MkI "Bessie"
1970 Triumph GT6+ (MkII) "The Princess"
1977 MG MGB
There are not a whole lot of manufacturers of them. I would assume that county is the one making them still. If you dig, you might find a set of Mahle pistons and liners, but last I saw those were about $900 plus shipping. Another place to check prices is Bp Northwest.

As for stuck pistons, my dad dealt with that when he bought my TR4 in 77. He mentioned that the bottom of the liner gave out when they tried using an industrial press to get it out. He did save the connecting rod though. Good luck! Kyle.

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, Alabama, USA   USA
Jeffrey,
BPNW is where I got both sets of pistons and liners and the were County brand made in Taiwan. The quality is quite good and I use their pistons in both the MGB and Bugeye with good results. I did splurge on a set of aftermarket con rods from Maxpeeding Rods which were about $300 delivered since I was going to resize and balance mine for the rebuild...they were much lighter and well balanced and the effective cost was only about $150 considering. BPNW will have an ‘open box’ sale on occasion and the piston and liner set can be had for cheap.
Rut

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ducbsa Bruce Metcalf
Berryville, Virginia, USA   USA
Do those liners come honed to match the piston diameters, plus clearance?

Jhallc Jeffrey Chormann
Acton, MA, USA   USA
Thanks-
This is my first engine rebuild so I'm trying to keep down the cost. If I ruin a part I'm not going to be kicking myself more than once or twice. I have a second engine that I eventually plan to rebuild that I might be more particular about. For now I'd like to get this one up and running using decent quality parts. If there is a set out there that is under $500 that is significantly better than what Moss is offering I might be persuaded to spend the extra money.

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, Alabama, USA   USA
If you have the patience to wait for a sale, you can do better than $428 for a set.
Rut
https://www.bpnorthwest.com/triumph/tr3-tr4-tr4a/engine-main-components/piston-and-liner-kit-86mm-to-87-5mm.html

Edit: just looked up my invoice and I paid $321 for an 87mm set back in April...it doesn’t hurt to call and ask.
Rut



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-10-24 08:37 AM by Perdido.

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, Alabama, USA   USA
JimG Avatar
JimG Jim G
Aurora, CO, USA   USA
Since this is your first tr4 build I'll tell you the liners need to be dialed in. If you don't know how to shave your liners
on your own contact me off line and I can give detailed instruction and pictures.
All you need is a piece of home depot granite tile and a couple boxes of 100 - 120 grit emory cloth and some aerosol
contact adhesive.
If you don't get the liner projection right you will start making milkshakes in the crankcase and then measure your engine life with an egg timer.
Kastners books are a must have....

jg

oh, look at British Frame & Engine for pistons & liners. They have them made by L.A. Sleeve & Wiseco pistons.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-10-26 01:38 PM by JimG.

TriumphantMan Avatar
TriumphantMan Raymond C
Southeast, Southeast, USA   USA
I rebuilt my '63 TR4 engine and went with 89mm pistons. I am including 3 pics to view. One is the original pistons that I removed from the engine. The next is of the replacement pistons with the original connecting rods attached. Note the shorter skirt and modern design. The last is a pic of the box of parts I took to the machine shop with the box of pistons next to the parts box. These are from Rimmer Bros out of England. Note that these pistons are made in England.
I have run these for about 700 miles now and so far, they have worked perfectly.

Note: if you are having your block cleaned and the surface checked for trueness, you may want the machine shop to mount the piston liners as well. I had them mount mine since I don't do this every day. To tell the truth, this was my first and only time to do this. Hope this helps.

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Dan B Dan Blackwood
South Charleston, WV, USA   USA
Have you talked to your machinist? When I first rebuilt my engine the local machine shop bored my liners .030 and got new pistons to match the bore. It was cheaper than new liners and pistons. It lasted about 10 or 11 years until a ring broke and punched a hole in the top of a piston. At that point I got a friend who owns a BMW shop and used to race TR4s to order me a set of pistons and liners for his cost. They came in mismatched boxes from the same supplier, but they were the same. I am still running those 26 years later.

Jhallc Jeffrey Chormann
Acton, MA, USA   USA
Rut- Thanks for the tip. I waited and just ordered a set from BPNW for $328 along with a bunch of other needed parts for a top and bottom end rebuild. Pretty significant savings, even better than the 20% that Moss was running. Now I just have to figure out how it all goes together.

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