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Powder Blue Hardtop '62

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Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, Michigan, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
Making progress. Fitting out the engine compartment is a bit easier, so I take breaks from the interior when I need to.
Get the oil pressure line in, ducts fitted and glue the felt on where it lays on the bulkhead support. Loosely attach the column support stay where it attaches to the bulkhead. The column can go in and you'll position the outboard support stay and then start getting bolts in and tighten a little. Get your column in level and where you want it and clamp the column to the steering universal shaft. Getting everything in you can before installing the dash gauges and instruments will be a time saver.
I needed to rebuild the speedo and RPM gauges. They were rusty on the outside and the flat black was tatty in some areas and the white paint inside was ratty.
Get the scuttle vent rod, and the hood release cable in. You have to wait on the choke cable as it threads through the plinth.
I re-did some front light wiring, saving what I could and making sure it all went together right. The ground tabs along the engine bay sides are new from British Wiring.com
I forgot to put the master cylinders in before installing the pedal assembly so I had to take it back out and bolt up the master cylinders. If you have the right length extension you can get them out.
Now to start rewiring all the gauges, heater and instrument lights.
I attaching a lot of photos. Maybe it will help someone looking for under dash details.

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Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, Michigan, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
More pics


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Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, Michigan, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
And more pics

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Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, Michigan, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
How bout more?


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Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, Michigan, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
4 more


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BL50 Avatar
BL50 Silver Member Brian Leslie
Grosse Pointe, Michigan, USA   USA
Wow ... you're moving at lightening speed Marcus ... did you quit your day job?! Ha! Nice work ... keep the pics coming.

Brian

ducbsa Bruce Metcalf
Berryville, Virginia, USA   USA
Very tidy crossover between the float bowls.

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Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, Michigan, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
I started the car up today. There were a couple issues. No gas getting to the float bowl, (blew back through the fuel line and heard bubbles in the tank) then petrol flowed nice. The carbs were nowhere near adjusted, and one carb piston was stuck and wouldn't lift. The fuel line was out of its clip and rattling on the oil filter. Started right up, idle was a bit fast and turned down to about 700, oil pressure at 75 Lbs. I must have assembled a carb wrong because the jet wont adjust and petrol leaks bad from the jet.
Basically I didn't want to go further with the interior if I had a major mechanical issue. I think if I get that carb put together right the engine is sweet!

Bled the brakes, but still need to bleed the clutch.

I had purchased a Switch Plinth off Ebay a year or so ago. Went to install it and it was made wrong. The top edge is 5/8" short of meeting the gauge cluster. So...bit the bullet and got one from TRF - Ouch! By the way I need a Right hand side plastic air vet grille. Anyone have one they want to sell?

Wiring issues - turn signals are sketchy, weak but then all of a sudden start working. The indicator isn't flashing. The wiper motor works, low beams work, but no high beams. I have the dash lights wired wrong and will get that squared away.

How do I have so much time? I am between careers - left my company after 30 years and now my wife and I are opening a coffeehouse /theater in our hometown April 2018. So I am frantically trying to get this car done before snow so I can drive it. I think it will be done by mid-late December. By January I will be very busy getting the business started and I probably wont have spare time for quite a while.

Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, Michigan, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
Wiring up the gauges and instruments is a contortionists pursuit. Put the wrong thing in first and you can't get the next thing in. I start with the center gauges. Make sure each gauge will be well grounded with a multimeter tester. Better to test all the ground connections at each gauge and that each bulb is good before hooking up the oil pressure fitting. On earlier cars there was a small leather seal that you didn't want to forget. Once the oil line fitting is tightened up it's hard to do anything else. The brown wire feeding the Overdrive relay comes off the ammeter small spade (right side).
Get the signal and generator indicator lights tested and in. My signal flasher was bad and a new one brought things back to life. Then hook up the speedometer and rpm gauges. Two leads come off from the gauges illumination that connect to the rheostat dimmer.
The switch plinth gets challenging. I like to hook up all the switches, and windscreen washer before installing the bracket and plastic and shiny cover. Feed the choke cable through and tighten the nut. Install the chrome finishing nuts to the switches, the two screws and then for the fun! There is a bracket that ties the plinth to the dash so when you pull the choke you aren't relying on the two Phillips screws. The round headed bolt goes through from the glove compartment side and you have to get a square nut on in back of the plinth and above the scuttle handle. It's a tough nut to get on. I always wonder why this was a square nut.
I installed rubber grommets on the transmission cover so that the 4 grease points can be gotten to. Two on the clutch cross shaft and two at the U-joints. These grease fittings are impossible to get to unless you remove the interior. Installing the trans cover is an Okay job if the holes line up, and there's no rubber seal in the way and you have cleaned the threads with a 1/4 -28 tap. But the bolts at the firewall will wear you out. Getting lucky and having those bolts line up is not typical. I use a small pick to find the captive nut thru the trans cover. Look at the alignment and then try getting the bolt thru at that same angle.
I used a SU synchronizer tool for the carbs and tightened the link when they were both pulling the same vacuum. It's nice to get this engine tuned to run smooth at 700 rpm.
Next up is trim panels and carpet, then to install the body panels.

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Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, Michigan, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
more pics


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Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, Michigan, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
A couple more - if look closely you can see that round headed bolt that holds the plinth support bracket. It's very hard to get to because the nut goes on behind the plinth and above the scuttle vent pull. The other side has a square nut for some reason.


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ShortBulge Brian LeBlanc
Falls Church, Virginia, USA   USA
I'M EXHAUSTED ALREADY...

Tommys4 Platinum Member Thomas G
Ojai, Calif., USA   USA
Nice work Marcus
TM German

Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, Michigan, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
Thanks....Some people regard this type of work as ..work. I really enjoy restoring these cars as a relaxation and passion. Keeps my mind and hands engaged.

The Powder Blue is an interesting color. Depending on the light it can appear as pewter grey, a slight greenish blue or a very bright blue in full sun.

Body and paint work is more about being a sculptor and sanding, sanding, sanding.....Reminds me of the workmen who made the marble statues of the renaissance...

The major body panels were painted this week. 11 panels that needed to be painted both sides. I chose a paint product that would most closely resemble a paint system of the 60's. Concept Single Stage 2K Urethane instead of base clear. The whole car inside and out took 3 quarts. Best to buy a gallon so you have extra in case you want to re-shoot or have touchup.

My repaint steps are
1. Get the panels all lined up with correct gaps and fit
2. Guide coat the existing paint and block with 80 grit to identify problem areas.
3. Rough out these with dolly and hammer, torch shrinking/expanding
4.Fill low spots and rough with 36 grit
5 DA sand the whole car with 80 grit
6. Guide coat - repeat above
7. Polyester putty lows, dolly and hammer highs
8. 220 DA sand and then Epoxy prime
9. Primer surfacer,
10. Dis-asseble the car and panels, guide coat, block sand with 240, then 320 - Block sanding with good technique is critical (criss cross on all panels - not back and forth)
11. Fill lows, dolly and hammer highs
12. Prime and 400 wet sand - there should be a sheen to the primer when wiped clean with alcohol
13. Tack off and hose on 2 full wet coats 2k Urethane with hardener. "Hosing" means you are the edge of drips
It's best to use the HVLP at full open, full fan. Ensure a good oval pattern and no drip with a 3 second test shot
Tip - Use contrasting epoxy primer (red/grey), primer surfacer so the black guide coat is easily identified as you block sand. Stop blocking when you see epoxy primer.


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ShortBulge Brian LeBlanc
Falls Church, Virginia, USA   USA
...These taken to bare metal 1st?
..."existing paint" ...?

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