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Powder Blue Hardtop '62

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ducbsa Bruce Metcalf
Berryville, Virginia, USA   USA
In reply to # 1495966 by Trike4 for the next guy restoring the car in 60 years.

Interesting thought. In '66 I assume I just thought TR4 type cars would always be built, so I didn't think about folks restoring them in 2017. Will non-autonomous, non-robot driven cars be allowed on the road in 60 years?

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Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, Michigan, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
I'm putting the car back together. It is very helpful to bag parts together with the fasteners. Then you can replace the exact fasteners or clean them up. TR's are pretty much put together so you just need 5/16, 7/16. 1/2, 9/16 and 5/8 head. But mostly 7/16" wrench and screw drivers.
I'm taking pictures of things that people have questions on. Like the run of the speedo for an overdrive, how the heater hoses install, and yes there is a grommet for the windshield wash tube!
I like to start on things that are low down and then work up.
Wire harness first.
Wiper wheel boxes, wiper motor. Yes there is a grommet for the windshield was tube below the scuttle push rod.
Then the heater - wait on the duct tubes til the dash is in.
Get the steering column put in with the flat side up and wheels straight so the signal cancel works right. Tap the coupler on the steering rack as you try getting the keeper bolt in.
Get the manifolds on but wait on the carbs.
Install the horns.
Install the throttle cross shaft, then the speedo cable.
Install the solenoid, Volt regulator, and fuse box.
Install the pedal assembly, dimmer switch, flasher
Install the heater hoses
Install the gas tank - (I use a 5/16" open end wrench under the nut to lift the fitting up into place in the tank and while applying pressure, tighten with a 1/2" wrench)


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Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, Michigan, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
More pics. Maybe helpful to someone someday.

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Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, Michigan, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
I like to orient the clamps on the heater hoses in such a way that if you ever need to remove one you don't have to take the dash out.


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BL50 Avatar
BL50 Silver Member Brian Leslie
Grosse Pointe, Michigan, USA   USA
Photos are always very helpful ... thanks Marcus. If you find that you ever need a hand (with body panels perhaps) don't hesitate to give me a call. Always willing to help and learn.

Brian

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, Alabama, USA   USA
Marcus,
Looking good and thanks for posting those pictures...very helpful! Now turn that gas cap around!

BraxtonO Avatar
BraxtonO Gold Member Braxton O
Raleigh, North Carolina, USA   USA
Pretty work. Thanks for sharing. Makes a great reference here. Much appreciated.

Best,
Braxton



" You know - I love this thing. She's got a few leaks, but it's only the engine, gearbox, and the diff - so not too bad....."

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ducbsa Bruce Metcalf
Berryville, Virginia, USA   USA
Isn't having the gas cap latch on the driver's side good?

Also, Marcus, consider installing an emergency hood release.

Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, Michigan, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
I think I'll turn the gas cap 90 degrees for each photo!

Next up - hoses, radiator, duct, headlights, grille - then dash, wiring, steering column and wheel, then instruments and gauges, battery and test. Carbs, linkage - After that its time to install wings, doors, bonnet and boot. Color sand, buff. Then door insides, trim, handles, tail lights.......Carpet, H support, upholstery...Hard top headliner....then everything I forgot to do.

Neither of these pictures are of my car - one is a rally replicar, the other a stock Wedgewood Blue wearing bumpers. Which looks better?

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Reddragon Avatar
Reddragon Dale M
Chesapeake, Virginia, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4 "Road Runner"
1974 Triumph TR6 "Tweety"
Marcus

In your post of Nov 8th, the first picture, it appears that you have cut down Tr 6 bonnet buffers. Since you are doing such a nice job, TRF has bonnet buffers in stock for TR 4s. Just got mine from back order.

Part # CD24540, round and flat. This is from their "All Summer Long" catalog, so do a inventory wide search.

Just in case you are interested.

Red

grubscrew Avatar
grubscrew grub screw
The suburbs of, Winfield, Maryland, USA   USA
In reply to # 1496867 by Trike4 ... Which looks better?

Stock!!! smiling smiley



Dave
1970 Spitfire Mk3
FDU 78359L
34/11 (Jasmine yellow/Black interior)

1962 Triumph TR3B
TCF 575L
Signal Red/Red interior

malbaby Avatar
malbaby malcolm baker
kyabram, Australia   AUS
Definitely bumpers.

BL50 Avatar
BL50 Silver Member Brian Leslie
Grosse Pointe, Michigan, USA   USA
Bumpers!

Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, Michigan, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
When installing new crash pads to the dash, it is, in the end much easier with the dash out (pun intended)

The new lower crash pads are made for TR4-5 with wood dash. There is a flange of material that would be hidden by a wood dash but isn't right for the painted dash. It will fold back neatly with some relief cuts around curves and some heating with a heat gun or blow dryer. There is a lot of excess material at the sides that wraps back around. To fit these well would be really hard with the dash in place. The upper crash pad should be installed with some contact cement so if it gets hot it doesn't warp up. The ducts are a pain to install with the dash in place because of where the fasteners are located. Also, you'll make your life so much easier if you pre-install the radio plate to the dash.

The dash is held in place with five 1/4-28 philips heads along the top to the body, two bolts at the sides and three supports (that go in later) and two bolts to the H support. A long big head Phillips will make getting the upper bolts out so much easier and prevent stripping the heads.

To install the lower crash pads I needed to trim a lot of material, use a heat gun and a soldering iron to make some holes. The black plastic leather is very thick and will become pliable when heated. You'll know it is heated enough when it starts bending on its own with heat. A blow dryer would even work. Warm the material and immediately start folding back as needed. Work about 6 inches at a time. Pull the material over the bolts making an impression. Use a soldering iron to burn holes where you see the impression. I needed to trim a fair amount of material away where the grab handle screws on and a few other places. Get the pads on for a trial fit. You'll see how the material will wrap the sides of the dash. This will require quite a bit of trimming heating, stretching and then some strong contact adhesive on the back side.

Now install the ducts using three small sheet metal screws. The two thru the front have blind speed nuts on the back. The one at the top goes into the duct sheet metal thru the felt.

Now install the crash pads, using the 3/8" nuts and a nut driver. Some models have the glove box hinges fastened with the same nuts. Now heat and pull the flaps around the sides of the dash. I trimmed a fair amount so there was only 2-3" to wrap around and glue. I use a 3M spray contact adhesive the works well and isn't too messy. Cut material away from where the side bolts go thru so you don't have to deal with not finding the hole to go thru. I have seen some TR's that had upholstery clips holding the material. These clips are used to hold the out window seals to the doors. I don't know if it was stock or just an add on by owners.

The glove box door can be adjusted to fit its opening by loosening the hinge nuts and sliding it up and down.


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Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, Michigan, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
When re-installing the glove box hinges to a metal dash it seems impossible (similar to getting the gas pedal back in the engine compartment) Close the hinge until the two parts are nearly parallel and work the hinge from the back side thru. As you push it thru open the hinge as you do and it will feed thru. Hurrah!

Make sure you clean the threads on all the bolt holes in the body because you don't want to fight the bolts in laying on your side or back across the car floor. Not comfortable.


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