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Significant play in carburetor jet lever linkage

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mcoomey Avatar
mcoomey Silver Member Michael Coomey
Paxton, MA, USA   USA
I'm about to embark on a rebuild of my carburetors that have been sitting inactive for 30+ years. While looking them over I noticed significant play in both jet lever linkages as indicated on the photo. Is this normal or have mine experienced excessive wear?



Michael Coomey
Paxton, MA

'57 TR3

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tr3_carb_linkage.jpg    38.3 KB
tr3_carb_linkage.jpg

CJD john durant
Southlake, Texas, USA   USA
I would say that side to side is normal. They should be pretty rigid when moved for or aft, as that is the direction that controls the jet motion.



John
Southlake, TX

'55 TR2

mcoomey Avatar
mcoomey Silver Member Michael Coomey
Paxton, MA, USA   USA
Well, I've definitely got movement fore and aft as shown in the following closeup where you can see daylight through pivot point. Surprisingly though, the hole does not seem that worn in that it is still circular. The hole in the lever measures 5/16" and the linkage and clevis both measure 3/16" so something's not right. Any ideas?



Michael Coomey
Paxton, MA

'57 TR3

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tr3_link_play_1.jpg

tr3_link_play_2.jpg    23.6 KB
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CJD john durant
Southlake, Texas, USA   USA
Yeah...that is a bit much! If you can find a decently priced arm, then that would be worthwhile. On the other hand, if everything is set up correctly (smooth, easily moving jet that the spring pressure will move back upward), then the play should be able to be adjusted out and function just fine. In other words, what you have is not great, but it should work until you find a good deal on a replacement.



John
Southlake, TX

'55 TR2

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
That joint is supposed to be loose; won't work right if you try to tighten it up. The looseness is what allows the fast idle cam to come into play before the jet starts to move.

The lever can wear, but the hole will be visibly out of round if it is worn. Just from memory, ISTR the hole is about 3/8" while the pin is only 3/16" (for about 3/16" total motion).



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

mcoomey Avatar
mcoomey Silver Member Michael Coomey
Paxton, MA, USA   USA
Thanks, Randall. That's a relief because I couldn't imagine what could account for the play. I checked the replacement lever at Moss and the pivot hole is obviously larger than the pin or holes in the link.



Michael Coomey
Paxton, MA

'57 TR3


Attachments:
Moss_jet_lever.jpg    13.7 KB
Moss_jet_lever.jpg

Fred Winterburn Avatar
Ripley, Ontario, Canada   CAN
Randall is right, there is supposed to be slop for the reason he stated. When I rebuilt my carbs, 55 years of wear had made just a little too much slop. I filled the holes with antimony/tin plumbing solder (just a little tougher than lead solder) and then re-drilled the holes pretty close to what they would have been when they left the factory. Fred

In reply to # 1499097 by TR3driver That joint is supposed to be loose; won't work right if you try to tighten it up. The looseness is what allows the fast idle cam to come into play before the jet starts to move.

The lever can wear, but the hole will be visibly out of round if it is worn. Just from memory, ISTR the hole is about 3/8" while the pin is only 3/16" (for about 3/16" total motion).



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-12-02 04:01 PM by Fred Winterburn.

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Fred Winterburn Avatar
Ripley, Ontario, Canada   CAN
Michael, When you do the rebuild, consider cleaning up the steel bits until they are nice and shiny and then use some cold blue (buy at any gun store) on them. With some oil on them, they will look good for years. On mine, I went a little nuts and resurfaced the cam for the fast Idle (as Randall calls it) and then flame hardened the surface so the adjusting screw wouldn't wear another groove into it. It's easy to do with an oxy-acetylene outfit. Just get a carburizing flame going (lots of black with hardly any oxygen) and soak the cam full of carbon. That will case harden the surface in a couple of minutes. Fred
Forgot to mention to grind the wear surface smooth before case hardening or you won't be able to cut it with a file.

In reply to # 1500920 by Fred Winterburn Randall is right, there is supposed to be slop for the reason he stated. When I rebuilt my carbs, 55 years of wear had made just a little too much slop. I filled the holes with antimony/tin plumbing solder (just a little tougher than lead solder) and then re-drilled the holes pretty close to what they would have been when they left the factory. Fred

In reply to # 1499097 by TR3driver That joint is supposed to be loose; won't work right if you try to tighten it up. The looseness is what allows the fast idle cam to come into play before the jet starts to move.

The lever can wear, but the hole will be visibly out of round if it is worn. Just from memory, ISTR the hole is about 3/8" while the pin is only 3/16" (for about 3/16" total motion).



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2017-12-02 04:24 PM by Fred Winterburn.

mcoomey Avatar
mcoomey Silver Member Michael Coomey
Paxton, MA, USA   USA
Thanks for the advice, Fred. I had planned to polish everything up nice, but had never heard of Cold Blue. For anyone else who's interested it's available on Amazon here.

Not sure about hardening the cam, though! smiling smiley



Michael Coomey
Paxton, MA

'57 TR3

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