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Where does the oil pressure line connect?

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mcoomey Avatar
mcoomey Silver Member Michael Coomey
Paxton, MA, USA   USA
I'm in the final stages of a complete engine rebuild and looking forward to cranking it up. Unfortunately, much of the car was disassembled by the PO before my involvement and I'm puzzled as to how some pieces go back together.

Among these is the oil pressure line connection. I'm pretty sure the pictured line is indeed the oil pressure line, but how and where on the oil filter assembly does the banjo fitting connect? I cannot make sense of the directions from the FSM and don't know what they mean by the "tubular stud."



Michael Coomey
Paxton, MA

'57 TR3

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tr3_oil_press_line.jpg

tr3_oil_press_conn.jpg    50 KB
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Jacad Avatar
Jacad Gold Member Barry Shefner
Montreal, QC, Canada   CAN
1959 Triumph TR3A "Loose Wheels"
1976 Triumph TR6 "The Tweetster"
Michael,

"Tubular stud" is simply a threaded stud that is screwed into the block. This will help understand what you require http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/40258-purolator-oil-pressure-banjo-and-stud/

The original part number for pre TS 9952 Engines is 105359 and for post 9952 it's 112170 ..... I'm unsure what the exact difference would be however according to Revington the original part is superceeded by the second part number and is described as STUD 5/16 UNC/UNF 2-1/8" so a stud that is 2-1/8" long and having a course thread on one side (the side going into the block) and fine thread on the other side http://www.revingtontr.com/tr3/triumph-catalogue/a/part/112170

The banjo fitting itself is attached to the stud with a copper washer on either side and a hex cap nut per the diagram below



Barry
59 TR3A 0TS57675LO - "Loose Wheels"
76 TR6 CF54266U - "The Tweetster"
Website: Triumph TR2-TR3-TR4 www.trtriumph.com/ (sorry for not keeping it current for the past couple of years)



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2017-11-04 10:18 AM by Jacad.


Attachments:
Filter head.pdf    245.2 KB

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
I believe (not certain) that the early stud was actually drilled through the center (hence 'tubular'). But it turned out cheaper and more effective (probably stronger too) to let the oil flow around the outside of the stud rather than the inside.

The cap nut (aka acorn nut) is a special design with more room for the stud to protrude than a common acorn nut. If you do substitute for it, make sure the result will clamp tightly against the banjo and two copper sealing washers. If the nut cap hits the end of the stud, you'll have a leak. Obviously, the stud has to be just the right length, too.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

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mcoomey Avatar
mcoomey Silver Member Michael Coomey
Paxton, MA, USA   USA
Thanks, Barry and Randall. Somewhere along the way my stud was exchanged for a bolt, so I'll be sure to order a new one along with the washers and cap nut. Also, thanks, Barry, for the clarification in the diagram as to which hole gets the stud. That was going to be my next question!

I understand that the copper washers are necessary for an oil-tight seal, but I'm curious how they get away with steel lock washers on the other 3 spots and not have a leak.



Michael Coomey
Paxton, MA

'57 TR3

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
The other holes are sealed away from the oil by the gasket. There is a passage in the filter head that feeds only the hole for the gauge fitting.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

mcoomey Avatar
mcoomey Silver Member Michael Coomey
Paxton, MA, USA   USA
Ah, that makes sense! I'll have to notice that if I ever have the filter head off the block again.
Thanks.



Michael Coomey
Paxton, MA

'57 TR3

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