TRExp

TR2 & TR3 Forum

Brake Line Flaring

Moss Motors
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor

Pat.L Avatar
Pat.L Silver Member Patrick Ledford
New Wilmington, Pennsylvania, USA   USA
I am getting ready to start the brake line brake rebuild phase of my TR3 project. When I did the restoration of my TR6 the copper Nickel set of lines i bought from Moss were too long and I needed up with larger loops than the stock line had. Does the TR3 Copper Nickel set for the TR3 match the stock length?

I noticed that the flare end on the stock line is convex and not concave like a double flare. If I make my own lines from copper nickel coiled stock will the concave double flare work in the Girling TR3 fitting? Also I believe the threaded male fitting is not standard and the vendors do not seem to carry just the fitting so where would I be able to source those?

I have looked at John Durant's pictures of his TR2 on the BCF forum and saw that he used a double flare but his is the Lockheed system and not sure if the fitting are the same.



Patrick
1980 TR8 DHC TPVDV8AT209637
1957 TR-3 Under restoration TS20462LO
Western Pennsylvania Triumph Association
North Coast Triumph Association
TWOA

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
Fittings are definitely different between the early Lockheed and later Girling brakes. However, the Girling lines on a TR3 should all be concave double flares; the convex "bubble" flares didn't come in until later.

The fittings are standard Girling fittings, which are definitely their own pattern. One source is http://store.fedhillusa.com/britishgirling.aspx
However, the Cunifer set should come with all the necessary nuts; which you can reuse after cutting the end off.

I bought the Cunifer brake line set from Moss (made by Automec IIRC), and the lines were a bit longer than original. Even had an "Oops" due in part to the longer lines.


(Obviously, the major cause was my own carelessness.)



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-10-28 12:37 PM by TR3driver.

Pat.L Avatar
Pat.L Silver Member Patrick Ledford
New Wilmington, Pennsylvania, USA   USA
Thanks Randall
The old lines I kept for patterns came off my TR3 and a 1960 TR3A parts car. I went and looked at the line fittings and I have both double flare and bubble flair ends. I then looked at the brass connections to see what was there. I have both the rear and front connection for the bubble flair and only the rear for the double flair. Since Rimmers is showing only one set of Cunifer lines for TS 13046 to TR4 that it takes a double flair joint. I will have to source or buy new a front connection fitting.

I also noticed I do not have a Restrictor Valve, which I thought I had ( need to dig through the parts boxes). Can it be eliminated? Is it used for balance between front and rear?


In reply to # 1494561 by TR3driver Fittings are definitely different between the early Lockheed and later Girling brakes. However, the Girling lines on a TR3 should all be concave double flares; the convex "bubble" flares didn't come in until later.

The fittings are standard Girling fittings, which are definitely their own pattern. One source is http://store.fedhillusa.com/britishgirling.aspx
However, the Cunifer set should come with all the necessary nuts; which you can reuse after cutting the end off.

I bought the Cunifer brake line set from Moss (made by Automec IIRC), and the lines were a bit longer than original. Even had an "Oops" due in part to the longer lines.

(Obviously, the major cause was my own carelessness.)



Patrick
1980 TR8 DHC TPVDV8AT209637
1957 TR-3 Under restoration TS20462LO
Western Pennsylvania Triumph Association
North Coast Triumph Association
TWOA



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-10-28 03:15 PM by Pat.L.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
That valve is actually a residual pressure valve; it's purpose is to hold a small positive pressure in the front brake calipers so that when the spindles flex (as they do in a hard corner), the brake pads follow the rotor movement instead of spreading out and causing a low pedal on the next application. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffYWpzVlJDXzhULXc

Personally, I don't care for the effect (it also makes the front brakes drag a little bit all the time), so I've disabled it on all my TR3s with front disc brakes. I do notice the low pedal after spirited driving (I also run wide modern tires that grip a lot better than the original skinny tires did). But it's never been low enough to be much of a problem; it's just disconcerting if you aren't expecting it.

A better solution IMO is to stiffen the spindles until they don't flex. There is a kit available from TRF (originally developed by a well-known vintage racer, "uncle jack" Drews) that contains uprated spindles as well as spacers to go between the bearings. P/N HP661 http://trf.zeni.net/TR2-TR3Handbook/15.php The only downside is that with the spacer, you have to use shims to set the bearing clearance.

If you do without the entire valve, though, you'll need the longer line. The stock line won't reach without the extra length of the valve body (which is why I just took out the insides and left the body in place).




Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

To add your reply, or post your own questions

Members Sign In   or   Create an Account

Registration is FREE and takes less than a minute!


Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster