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After 50 years of ownership....

Moss Motors
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Starshark Avatar
Starshark Joe Garcia
Gainesville, Georgia, USA   USA
1960 Triumph TR3A "White Knight"
After 50 years of ownership, I finally, no kidding, fixed all the ()&&*(^%$ leaks. Macy's Garage of Tipp City OH rebuilt my Trani (TR-4 trani which was purchased in 1977 used from JC Whitney!) and fixed my vibration issue by correctly installing / seating the throw out bearing collar. I installed a niffty rear engine seal while not having to remove the engine nor having the crank machined. (Also purchased from Mark Macy). I replaced the lower main bearing cap found while installing the rear engine seal. Whew! Check this out...
http://homemagazinenorthgeorgia.com/2017/a-major-triumph-joe-garcia-celebrates-50-years-owning-his-british-roadster/

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Starshark Avatar
Starshark Joe Garcia
Gainesville, Georgia, USA   USA
1960 Triumph TR3A "White Knight"
50 Proof: 23 year old me with car...June 1970..note oil stains on pants...then me today...


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Jacad Avatar
Jacad Gold Member Barry Shefner
Montreal, QC, Canada   CAN
1959 Triumph TR3A "Loose Wheels"
1976 Triumph TR6 "The Tweetster"
Congrats Joe! ........ wish you another 50 years of joy with your car ... you should be so lucky as to have oil stained pants in 2067smiling smiley



Barry
59 TR3A 0TS57675LO - "Loose Wheels"
76 TR6 CF54266U - "The Tweetster"
Website: Triumph TR2-TR3-TR4 www.trtriumph.com/ (sorry for not keeping it current for the past couple of years)

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Starshark Avatar
Starshark Joe Garcia
Gainesville, Georgia, USA   USA
1960 Triumph TR3A "White Knight"
Only one big problem...the darn car is shrinking! But my wife likes it.


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ShortBulge Brian LeBlanc
Falls Church, Virginia, USA   USA
Obvious ...which 1 is holding up better...besides 3 !

CJD john durant
Southlake, Texas, USA   USA
How will you know it has oil now?



John
Southlake, TX

'55 TR2

mgedit Mike Graham
Kemptville, Ontario, Canada   CAN
Congratulations! Cheers, Mike

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JoeOtero Avatar
JoeOtero Silver Member Joe Otero
Lexington, Kentucky, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR3B
1968 Triumph GT6 MkI "Cali"
1971 TVR Vixen
1972 TVR Vixen
Congrats Joe! Always good when your life partner likes the things you enjoy..!

Cheers

Joe O

TuRtle5 Avatar
TuRtle5 Kevin Kelly
Absecon, NJ, USA   USA
1949 Triumph 2000 Roadster "Coral Mistress"
1959 Triumph TR3A "Drandulet"
1962 Triumph Vitesse "Ohtoseethelightofday"
1968 Triumph TR250    & more
now Joe will have to start doing oil changes.
K

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Starshark Avatar
Starshark Joe Garcia
Gainesville, Georgia, USA   USA
1960 Triumph TR3A "White Knight"
Thanks for the comments...

I need some "guidance" re: vacuum advance...I have the original distributor (V202 960 with DM2 vac unit) installed. It's only a few years old (57 years) and I do want to keep everything as original as possible so no electronic Moss solution for me...I know the mechanical advance works since I can see it work with a timing light...yes, I still have my Sears Penski chrome timing light...I have an acceleration "hesitancy" so I believe; a) I have a plugged / inop vac advance suction vacuum line/tube from the carb to the distributor, b) a leak at the tube/dist. rubber attachment (note the black tape), c) a bad vacuum unit or ...d) all of the above. I checked the oil in the carbs (I can't believe I said that) and carb dampers work fine.

Any words of wisdom before I tear into my issue?

Joe


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Lancero Avatar
Lancero Lance Winger
Springfield, OR, USA   USA
Joe, I'm new to the forum, though I've owned my TR 3 since 69. Anyhow I would like to know more about your rear main seal solution. My TR leaks very badly. Many, many years ago I broke a crank and rebuilt it myself. Not getting a new seal in kit, I just put old one back in. Back then I bought rebuild kit a my local auto parts store. Sure would enjoy an answer to this problem with removing engine. I wonder why nobody wanted follow up info? thanks Lance

Starshark Avatar
Starshark Joe Garcia
Gainesville, Georgia, USA   USA
1960 Triumph TR3A "White Knight"
Lance,

Wow! You and I are true TR blood brothers! Nice to know that someone besides me has had their TR on the road for these many years.

FYI...I had no intention of swapping out my rear main engine seal while I had my TR trani (a TR-4A trani purchased used from J.C. Whitney in 1977!) being rebuilt by Mark Macy of Macy's Garage...but a causal comment made by Mark Macy of Macy's Garage, Ltd. of Tipp City OH.. 937-667-3014 alerted me to a new seal kit that could be replace without removing the crank. So I went for it...so can you. Moss Motors sells a rear seal kit that requires removal and machining of the crank to accept the seal. Mark sold me a rear seal kit (from Germany) that did not require crank machining (about $200 bucks...just like Moss Motors) and with some cussing and fussing, could be installed without crank removal. In order to install it, I needed to remove the oil pan and rear main bearing cap of the crankshaft... to do so, I "created" an engine mount 2" x 6"...see pic. Get new pan gasket and rear cap felt from Moss.

God bless Mark...he said to insert the seal, one could "unhook" the seal's inner spring and reinstall it after the seal went over the crank's flywheel interface....WRONG! No way could my fat fingers accomplished that which he suggested. I carefully stretched the seal and it's spring over the flywheel attachment interface...but the darn seal inner spring would not stay put while do this...so with some panel sealer putty I had lying around, I place tiny bits around the seal in four locations temporarily securing the spring in place while I stretched it...then with a hook, removed the putty bits after the seal was in place....REMEMBER TO PUT GREASE ALL AROUND THE SEAL/CRANK INNER AREA BEFORE INSTALLATION OF THE SEAL. It's a good idea to mark the lower bend point of the seal with a Sharpie so you can make sure the seal's top slot is vertical when installed. While doing all this, I was not surprised to learn that my rear main lower bearing was toast...so I replaced just the lower cap and did not mess with any others. The engine should last longer than me so I am ok with this. Do NOT tighten the seal until AFTER you reinstall the main bearing cap...the cap won't seat properly if you have tighten the seal before hand. (Lessons learned from Joe's seal adventure.)

Wishing you well...let me know how it goes.

Joe

Joe


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Jacad Avatar
Jacad Gold Member Barry Shefner
Montreal, QC, Canada   CAN
1959 Triumph TR3A "Loose Wheels"
1976 Triumph TR6 "The Tweetster"
Lance,

The general consensus is that the the MadMarx seal offers the easiest and best solution to replacing and original type leaking rear seal. http://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?6,1473530,1473530#msg-1473530 Available from Alexander racing or British parts northwest.
Ideally you should remove the tranny and the engine however you should also be able to replace with the engine in the car by undoing the main bearing caps which will allow you to drop the crank slightly and give enough clearance to install the new seal.

BTW, while Joe was hesitant changing all three main bearings (upper and lower, once the crank is lowered, it's very easy to pop the upper halves, rotate and remove them. Replacement is the reverse. Also check your thrust washers are within tolerance and if not, replace with a new set.
Also getting the garter spring to attach around the seal is not impossible (you go mostly by feel) but large fingers might make it extremely difficult.
Do not use any sealant that hardens around the new seal! Best to use Permatex Aviation No 3 or Hylomar AF Gasket Sealant



Barry
59 TR3A 0TS57675LO - "Loose Wheels"
76 TR6 CF54266U - "The Tweetster"
Website: Triumph TR2-TR3-TR4 www.trtriumph.com/ (sorry for not keeping it current for the past couple of years)



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2017-11-04 06:04 AM by Jacad.

Lancero Avatar
Lancero Lance Winger
Springfield, OR, USA   USA
Thanks guys for the info. Joe, nice work on figuring out how to make it work. I take it the putty was non-hardening. Not sure when I will attempt this job but will keep you posted. Thanks again for the quick response. Lance ps Joe I was shocked to learn after 48 years that my side curtains were JC Whitney's. I was stunned.

Starshark Avatar
Starshark Joe Garcia
Gainesville, Georgia, USA   USA
1960 Triumph TR3A "White Knight"
Yes, Non hardening putty...just wee bits just enough to keep the spring from springing...then get'em out of there. BTW...Macy did a super job on my trani...during it's life, I had lost a starter bolt and created shrapnel wounds on the bell housing...didn't know it for 10 years!...then shipping it to Ohio, UPS messed up the shifting pedestal...Macy made it all new...see pics.
Joe


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