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ShortBulge Brian LeBlanc
Falls Church, Virginia, USA   USA
- Being clear on the Problem...Thats the Issue !
- Sounds like need to do outer seal just because...
- & that requires splitting the Hub
- than you might as well do the bearing

- Ha! lock tabs ....think they disappeared in the 1970's!

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TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
IMO (and what I've always done), unless the bearing is damaged, just leave the hub be! The inner seal is the important one, as it is what keeps the gear oil (from the diff) from getting into your brakes.

As long as you don't overgrease the wheel bearing (no more than 5 strokes in 12,000 miles IIRC), the outer seal doesn't do much of anything.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

ShortBulge Brian LeBlanc
Falls Church, Virginia, USA   USA
hmmm....

guess i could do seal, put it together and see if i get vibration/noise etc...
maybe take axle/hub to shop and have them eye-ball it...

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Jacad Avatar
Jacad Gold Member Barry Shefner
Montreal, QC, Canada   CAN
1959 Triumph TR3A "Loose Wheels"
1976 Triumph TR6 "The Tweetster"
In reply to # 1480265 by ShortBulge - Being clear on the Problem...Thats the Issue !
- Sounds like need to do outer seal just because...
- & that requires splitting the Hub
- than you might as well do the bearing

- Ha! lock tabs ....think they disappeared in the 1970's!

Getting the hub off without the proper tool risks you damaging the hub so in that case it will cost you a seal, a bearing AND a $250 hub. If you do use the correct Churchill hub removal tool and manage to get the hub off without taking the necessary precautions you risk losing your life. When that hub pops off you don't want to be standing behind it as when it releases it can sail clear across the garage! (not kidding)

Anyways it is your call but remember ............... if it ain't broke don't fix it! .... If the bearing is still good there is no good reason to remove the hub unless you want the additional cost and aggravation



Barry
59 TR3A 0TS57675LO - "Loose Wheels"
76 TR6 CF54266U - "The Tweetster"
Website: Triumph TR2-TR3-TR4 www.trtriumph.com/ (sorry for not keeping it current for the past couple of years)


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TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
Stand the axle up with the splined end down, then pull down on the bearing housing with both hands while you turn it. It should be silky smooth. Any roughness or catch says it needs to be changed.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

ShortBulge Brian LeBlanc
Falls Church, Virginia, USA   USA
.... just posted

my end float using the old shims is:
Left: 0.003
Rght: 0.002

pushing/pulling as-hard-as-i-can !

also; backplate on about 8 o'clock ...leaving wheel cylinder an inch off frame !


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TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
Yup, pretty tight spot there. That's why the brake line makes such a sharp bend into the cylinder.

But, that's actually the spring rather than the frame; the distinction being that it moves with the axle. So that gap remains exactly the same always, you don't have to worry about the motion relative to the frame (which is both side to side as well as vertical).



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

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ShortBulge Brian LeBlanc
Falls Church, Virginia, USA   USA
Typical Triumph!

tons of open space...unless its the part you'r working on!

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
Could always be worse. I owned a Chevy for a long time where, to change the spark plugs, you had to disconnect one of the motor mounts and jack the engine over; then use a special tool to reach down through the narrow gap created.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

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