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TR3 Brake Cable

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ShortBulge Brian LeBlanc
Falls Church, Virginia, USA   USA
Anyone have pic of rear brake cable ..

Mine currently runs from right actuator , drags across diff & brake line !

...to get the left side

and wearing the cable and brake line!

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CJD john durant
Southlake, Texas, USA   USA




Not sure if this is the area you need.



John
Southlake, TX

'55 TR2



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-07-25 01:30 PM by CJD.

ShortBulge Brian LeBlanc
Falls Church, Virginia, USA   USA
Agh! ...I see problem...

My left side wheel cylinder is 180 degrees out of position ...

where the adjuster is

never seen that !

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CJD john durant
Southlake, Texas, USA   USA
You're far from the first!



John
Southlake, TX

'55 TR2

ShortBulge Brian LeBlanc
Falls Church, Virginia, USA   USA
What does this involve?

...so I dont actually have to go to trouble of opening the manual...!

Jacad Avatar
Jacad Gold Member Barry Shefner
Montreal, QC, Canada   CAN
1959 Triumph TR3A "Loose Wheels"
1976 Triumph TR6 "The Tweetster"
Brian,

You are going to have to rotate the backing plate 180 degrees. The backing plate is sandwiched between the rear differential housing and the axle bearing housing. You do this by lifting the locking tabs and undoing / removing the 6 bolts that hold the assembly together located on the backside of the axle. You probably will want to remove the wheel, drum & brakes in facilitate this procedure.



Barry
59 TR3A 0TS57675LO - "Loose Wheels"
76 TR6 CF54266U - "The Tweetster"
Website: Triumph TR2-TR3-TR4 www.trtriumph.com/ (sorry for not keeping it current for the past couple of years)

charleyf Silver Member Charley Fitch
Redding, California, USA   USA
1962 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "MR.T"
And the worst thing of all is that you have the brake line going to the wrong location. That means that you will need to rebend the brake pipe to get it to the correct location. Those bends on the TR3 are the worst of all located on these cars.
When you are standing next to the car on the driver's side looking at the wheel you see that the emergency brake actuator should be located at 4 o'clock. The passenger side should be located at 8 o'clock when standing outside the car and looking at the wheel.
Charley

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ShortBulge Brian LeBlanc
Falls Church, Virginia, USA   USA
...RE-BENDING 60 YEAR OLD BRAKE LINES !

sounds like fun...

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
Sounds more like a recipe for disaster to me! Time for some new line!

I found a 25' roll of Cunfer brake line in Amazon for not too much money. If your nuts are in good shape, you can reuse them. Cunifer is soft and bends easily to shape, in most cases with just your fingers. I only used a mandrel for that really tight bend at the rear wheel cylinders.

If you do need nuts, check with Fedhill. Make sure you get the Hurling pattern with the extended tip.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2017-07-28 03:38 PM by TR3driver.

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ShortBulge Brian LeBlanc
Falls Church, Virginia, USA   USA
well, im confused ...after reading this :

http://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?7,1470402

x-actly what do you need to do-your-own lines on a Tr3-4a !

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
Some one correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't recall any bubble flares on a TR3/a/b with Girling brakes. Later cars maybe used them on the MC.

So, you need the special brake flaring tool, plus a tubing cutter. For steel line, I suggest a mandrel or other tool for every bend, one larger radius (2-3" ) and one small (1" ). For Cunifer, you only need the little one.
That's pretty much it, except for patience and practice. Lots of practice.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-07-28 08:32 PM by TR3driver.

CJD john durant
Southlake, Texas, USA   USA
In reply to # 1474025 by ShortBulge well, im confused ...after reading this :

http://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?7,1470402

x-actly what do you need to do-your-own lines on a Tr3-4a !

Look about midway down this thread:

http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?108693-Recipe-for-a-TR2/page2

I had the additional problem of the early style brake nuts for the TR2, but aside from the nuts, the details are the same.



John
Southlake, TX

'55 TR2

ShortBulge Brian LeBlanc
Falls Church, Virginia, USA   USA
Update !!!

- finally got around to rotating the back plate to get left wheel cylinder/cable lined up
...in my defense ... messing with a 3, 4a, and 7 at same time
- noticed 1 bolt missing from hub, noted i need to get 1
- after lining up shims (#$%@#!) and putting 4 bolts in
-... 1 only went in 1/2 way...
- upon detailed inspection...
- noticed 1/2 a bolt was broken off inside
- (#$%@#!)
- ..pulled axle out for bolt extraction
- with more detailed inspection (#$%@#!)
- noticed a scratch on shaft where outer seal rides
- with even more detailed inspection (#$%@#!)
- observed outer seal was a i](#$%@#!)[/i] disaster !

...
- I think shaft is usable is a little sanding polishing
- questions...
- do inner and outer seals or just outer?
- do bearing while this things out?
- and ....one side or both sides? (driver on budget !)


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CJD john durant
Southlake, Texas, USA   USA
Funny, for a driver you never want to go short on mechanicals. I can't imagine the outer seal looks that bad with the inner being any better. For that matter, if the axle rode on the seal like that, the bearing had to be abused too. So this is the case of a driver needing more work than a looker. On a looker you can just button it back up without worrying about longevity.



John
Southlake, TX

'55 TR2

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
Wow, looks like a major failure there. For the shaft to be running that far off, you either had a major bearing failure, or the bearing housing was coming loose from the axle. I'm guessing that might explain the broken bolt as well.

The inner seal is the most important, as it is what keeps gear oil out of the brakes. The outer seal mostly just keeps dirt and dust out of the wheel bearing, so not as important.

I would definitely want to have a look at the other side, since both bearings effectively share the same clearance. You'll probably find similar damage there, and if not, it only costs a few lock tabs to look (less if you use Loctite instead of tabs).

If the sealing surface on the shaft is less than perfect, consider a speedi-sleeve. You'll have to make up your own installation tool, but it can be just a length of pipe perhaps with a fitting on the end. Just something to fit over the shaft and tap the sleeve into place. You'll probably have to find the sleeve by size, but there are a lot of sizes available. I found some on Amazon to fit my Ferguson tractor, and used a length of 2" water pipe, plus a coupling with the threads cut out to install them.

Don't forget to check the bearing clearance when you are done. Its important.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

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