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How to front coilovers

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18593210 Avatar
18593210 Silver Member Wilbur Cook
Austin, TX, USA   USA
1977 MG MGB V6 Conversion
1980 Triumph TR8 "BLUE GOOSE"
1981 Triumph TR8 "CHESTER"
Here you go Anthony. Almost finished. Pictures of both sides.

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18593210 Avatar
18593210 Silver Member Wilbur Cook
Austin, TX, USA   USA
1977 MG MGB V6 Conversion
1980 Triumph TR8 "BLUE GOOSE"
1981 Triumph TR8 "CHESTER"
FINISHED today. New coil springs gives the car a 1 1/2 inch lift. The front is rock solid now. The rear has new springs and the koni shocks are 1/2 turn away from max stiffness. So the rear is softer than the front after pushing down hard on the fenders. Thanks TODD for all the help.


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TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
Do you have the ride height you want? I know you said it was too low going in, so 1.5" sounds about like what you were looking for. Need pictures of the car on the ground with a view of how the wheels sit in the wells. Have you driven the car yet? Let me know how it's handling and I can give you tips on how to make it better if needed.

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18593210 Silver Member Wilbur Cook
Austin, TX, USA   USA
1977 MG MGB V6 Conversion
1980 Triumph TR8 "BLUE GOOSE"
1981 Triumph TR8 "CHESTER"
I drove Chester hard today. I tried a road with no day traffic and lots of curves. He handles fine in the turns real flat with little or no lean. Only bad thing was when it hit a big dip in the road in a turn the shock bottomed out with a loud thud. I have the coils adjusted above 25 and the konis at 1/2 from max hard. here are a few pictures of the adjustment setting and the wheel well opening. The top of the front well is 24 1/8 inches tall, rear is 25 1/2 inches tall now. What do you think TODD ??


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18593210 Avatar
18593210 Silver Member Wilbur Cook
Austin, TX, USA   USA
1977 MG MGB V6 Conversion
1980 Triumph TR8 "BLUE GOOSE"
1981 Triumph TR8 "CHESTER"
A few more.


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TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
I find it hard to believe that the shock bottomed out. Just looked up the specs on that spring. It won't coil bind until it sees 1,278 pounds and compressed a height of 3.61" Thats a travel of 6.39. Not knowing exactly which Koni you have, I can't tell you exactly where that bottoms out. Generally you want your shock to do all its travel somewhere near the middle of its range. When you release the top nut, how far down does the shaft of the shock drop. Let it drop all the way down as far as it will go and see if it is even possible for the car to drop that low. My guess is the spring moved a little or finished setting in place when you really loaded the car. These things will move around a little from time to time, especially shortly after first putting the car back down on the ground. After you put the car back on the ground, make sure the coil ends are sitting on the perches secure and flat.

TR3barton Avatar
TR3barton John Taylor
Greenfield, MA, USA   USA
Good Morning,

I was looking at the finished install photos and you and clearly see the spring is NOT straight on the strut. I assumed that it was a photographic issue caused by a super wide angle lens and a close-up photo. I think the lens on an iPhone 4 is something like 4mm. That would cause a straight line to look less than straight.

Perhaps the spring was NOT seated.

Best
John

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18593210 Silver Member Wilbur Cook
Austin, TX, USA   USA
1977 MG MGB V6 Conversion
1980 Triumph TR8 "BLUE GOOSE"
1981 Triumph TR8 "CHESTER"
I think its just the angle of the picture. But I did look again today. I went for a ride today and hit the same bump with no bad reaction. I took measurements of the shocks at full extension and compared both sides. I'm thinking about readjusting the konis to max. And do the same with the rear Koni shocks. I'm trying for a firm ride and great cornering I think I'm almost there. thanks to TODD.

TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
I have other springs here, so if you decide you want to go stiffer, I can send you a pair or two. Try them out until you get the ride you want. Of course you understand that once your satisfied with the front, you are going to want to mess with the back and throw everything out of whack. But isn't that the fun of owning these things... the constant tinkering that keeps you in tune with the car. Have you installed a bigger front sway bar yet? That helps a bunch to keep the car flat in the corners. Those anti dive blocks help too. Thanks for the kind words.

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18593210 Avatar
18593210 Silver Member Wilbur Cook
Austin, TX, USA   USA
1977 MG MGB V6 Conversion
1980 Triumph TR8 "BLUE GOOSE"
1981 Triumph TR8 "CHESTER"
I really appreciate what you do in the interest of keeping these old special cars on the road and your personal attention. That being said lets talk about the rear springs. I would like to see the what and how to set up the springs. Some day I will probably try to do the rear also. Would gabriel or monroe coil over shocks work without the welding and cutting? I don't know just what I have yet. So far its great and a big improvement. What I'm using as the comparison is my Z51 corvette with the performance suspension. Its perfect IMOP. Its supposed to be set up for gymkana events. I want to keep driving Chester and pushing it looking for ideas. I still have the intermitten no start when hot problem I can't fix. Today was bike day I rode with some buddies to Fredricksburg and Luckenbach for lunch. It was very windy, Dry, and sunny. 77'. thats Texas. thanks.

TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
Coil overs on the rear won't work because the spring and the shock are located in different spots. There isn't enough room to run the springs where the shock goes up thru the body. So, you keep the shock as it is and just run adjustable perches on the springs. At first we ran the perches on the bottom, just like on the fronts, because that is what you are "suppose" to do. Problem with that is they sit at an angle, and the angle changes as the car goes over bumps. Then one day I was watching Nascar on TV and they were talking about the spring jacks they use. Ever see them stick a wrench down thru the back window and turn it to raise or lower the car? There is a 1" threaded bolt that passes thru the upper spring cup. Thats when the light in my head went off and decided to run the perches on the top, where they sit nice and flat. The only problem with this setup is spring length and rear shock travel. Stock springs are long and soft. When you lower the car, the spring remains in compression even when the rear end is in full droop. Put in a set of 8" 200# springs and jack up the car. The spring falls out. Same thing could happen if the car gets some air. Not good! Two options to prevent this from happening. Different shocks with a shorter body and shorter stroke(Alfa Romeo GTV6 fits the bill), or limiting straps like on the MGB.

TR3barton Avatar
TR3barton John Taylor
Greenfield, MA, USA   USA
Todd,

I have had the springs jump out of their mounts no my street DHC after hitting a nasty hole.

Easy fix but close call.

John

parrisw William P
Victoria, BC, Canada   CAN
Where did you get those adjustable spring mounts? Do they just sit on the strut where you welded that support piece? Are they fastened in any way? What do you do for the rear suspension ford dialing in the height?

Thanks

Will

TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
You can pick up a cheap set on ebay for around $60, or you can spend a lot more and pickup either Afco, or ground control threaded collars and adjustable perches. The Ebay ones are good enough unless you plan on running 400# springs or heavier. Thats when you might have to worry about the cheaper quality aluminum and threads. They just sit there. The variation in the welded bead holds them in place so they don't spin and the inside diameter of the threaded tube prevents them from sliding down over the welded collar. The inside diameter is just over 2". Something like 2.03", and thats because large body shocks are 2" OD. The perches and threaded tubes for the rear sit on top of the rear springs instead of under them. You have to weld a locating piece of 2" ID or around 2 3/8" OD pipe to the bottom control arm and a piece of 1.5" ID or 1 7/8" OD pipe in the center of the original top spring perch. Black gas pipe in 1.5" and 2" works great for this and it's cheap. Especially for me as I'm a plumber and I have it laying around.

parrisw William P
Victoria, BC, Canada   CAN
In reply to # 955480 by TR8todd You can pick up a cheap set on ebay for around $60, or you can spend a lot more and pickup either Afco, or ground control threaded collars and adjustable perches. The Ebay ones are good enough unless you plan on running 400# springs or heavier. Thats when you might have to worry about the cheaper quality aluminum and threads. They just sit there. The variation in the welded bead holds them in place so they don't spin and the inside diameter of the threaded tube prevents them from sliding down over the welded collar. The inside diameter is just over 2". Something like 2.03", and thats because large body shocks are 2" OD. The perches and threaded tubes for the rear sit on top of the rear springs instead of under them. You have to weld a locating piece of 2" ID or around 2 3/8" OD pipe to the bottom control arm and a piece of 1.5" ID or 1 7/8" OD pipe in the center of the original top spring perch. Black gas pipe in 1.5" and 2" works great for this and it's cheap. Especially for me as I'm a plumber and I have it laying around.

Thanks! Maybe a future project. We'll see. I just redid my whole suspension this winter. But that's a nice setup. Do you use the same collar's on the rear?

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