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What did you do with your TR7/TR8 today?

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Ron Avery Ron A
Oxnard, California, USA   USA
At long last my TR 8 is at my upholsterer to have my seats retrimed with the kit I purchased. I have already replaced the door panels and center Consol trim, Plus my kneepads and steering wheel as well.
Plus I installed my 15 inch wheels and tires new less restrictive exhaust system and had my paint cut and polished ( The previous owner re painted the car four years ago). The car also has new carpet and windshield. I also replaced the front spoiler and added new fog lights, (they were missing when I bought the car).
After all this the car goes to the mechanic for the front brake upgrade, chase some oil leaks and fix some small problems mechanically. Also replace the clock with a rebuilt one that has been updated. I will post photos soon.
Ron



Ron
1980 TR 8
1965 E-Type Jaguar
2016 Aston Martin Vantage GT
Oxnard, CA

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TR3barton Avatar
TR3barton John Taylor
Greenfield, MA, USA   USA
Hello,

Best of fortune with your project.

I am interested in your "updated" clock. Where was it done?

Ron Avery Ron A
Oxnard, California, USA   USA
The clock was rebuilt at West valley instruments, in Reseda Ca. Phone # 818-758-9500. It was around $180, they also rebuilt the clock in my 1965 E type which is now been working nicely for five years.
Ron



Ron
1980 TR 8
1965 E-Type Jaguar
2016 Aston Martin Vantage GT
Oxnard, CA

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Darth V8R Avatar
Darth V8R Vance Navarrette
Beaverton, Oregon, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
Lads:

Pulled my dash, and painted it with Plastikote Charcoal Grey bumper paint. A very good match and easy to work with. The dash looks sooo much better with all the scuffs and thin areas now adequately painted. It looked like someone had some sort of solvent on their hands while touching it, as it had a couple of faint handprints on it that would not clean up.

The goal was to fix the heater that leaked from the first time I fired the engine. Turns out there was a pinhead sized hole in the pipes from the heater core to the firewall. I thought the pipes were copper, but when I tried to solder them I realized they were steel and had simply corroded through. <sigh> The pipes were never serviced separately, so there is no part number for them and I was unable to find any on line. So I ordered the Robsport Stainless reproduction pipes. Rather spendy! I will report on the pipes after I attempt installation.

I will also install the correct air deflector as I am installing AC in the car and it was not originally equipped with it. I am using all the factory bits so it will look original. Found a rebuilt R4 compressor on sale at Amazon. I am still looking for an original AC wiring harness.

Vance



1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, navy blue interior
Bare metal respray, Crower cam, raised compression
ported heads, modified Zenith carbs, 0.060" overbore

bowen6951 Avatar
bowen6951 Gold Member rob bowen
Fontana, California, USA   USA
Hi Vance,
new A/C harnesses are available from British Wiring, if you are interested I can dig out the bag and give you the number. Or you could just call Josh. Thanks, Rob


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Darth V8R Avatar
Darth V8R Vance Navarrette
Beaverton, Oregon, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
In reply to # 1500548 by bowen6951 Hi Vance,
new A/C harnesses are available from British Wiring, if you are interested I can dig out the bag and give you the number. Or you could just call Josh. Thanks, Rob

Kewl!

I have dealt with them before, they are awesome. I will check it out.

By now I should know better than to go to the big three for something like that.

Vance



1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, navy blue interior
Bare metal respray, Crower cam, raised compression
ported heads, modified Zenith carbs, 0.060" overbore

Ron Avery Ron A
Oxnard, California, USA   USA
Picked up my TR 8 from the upholster, it took him a lot longer than he thought. The foam that came with seat kit from England, was, quoting him"not good". He said it was not dense enough or shaped correctly. He also had the replace the rubber straps on the seat frame for the back rest. The originals were stretched out.
I love the way it looks, I will take some photos tomorrow at sun set. I need to get used to sitting higher in my seat, apparently The bottom of my seat had a hole in the bottom seat diaphragm, that had me sitting in a hole before. I posted photos of my car, in the photo video section of this site.
Ron



Ron
1980 TR 8
1965 E-Type Jaguar
2016 Aston Martin Vantage GT
Oxnard, CA



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-12-07 11:58 AM by Ron Avery.

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TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
The seat foam and to a lesser extent the seat covers themselves just aren't that good. The foam is held together with seamstress tape and the foam is poor quality. The seat covers just aren't as durable. The rubber diaphragm has holes that don't align with holes in the seat frame. Makes it so the diaphragm is very taught and you sit higher than original stock seating height and much higher than the saggy bottom seats that came out. Whenever I recover a set of seats, there are a few things I do to add to the longevity. First off is to add foam pipe insulation around the front edge of the seat back. Just about every seat you tear apart had rips where the wire frame punched thru the seat cover. I add lots of duct tape to give the foams structure, and I put dense couch cushion foam in the head rests.

robtr8 Rob Stephenson
Lake St Louis, Missouri, USA   USA
Got the new distributor and coil installed but still wouldn't run. Had a local mobile boat repair buddy stop by to take a look. He was a Rover tech in a previous life. Discovered the rotor and mag ring weren't seated. Started right up. I asked him about my coolant disappearing and he said I likely have a couple liners slipped a bit but that it was one of the smoothest idling 3.5's head seen in awhile and to not worry about it.

I felt my fuel pressure seemed a bit anemic with the cheap replacement in-tank I'd been running. Just a dribble showing up in the clear filter. Installed a new Edelbrock external. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-17301?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-edelbrock&gclid=CjwKCAiA3o7RBRBfEiwAZMtSCT8F6pF3wGLN8i_wSebEcKYGvRp4A4VZ8HsCpkKCIROwadFMlNz9PBoCKvMQAvD_BwE Filter filled to the brim. Seems a lot happier.



1980 TR8 - MBT-RX, Overdrive Plus, GM-D9605, GS62, TS-SW2502S4 (2X)
2006 XC90 V8 - AVH3300NEX, PDX-F4 (2X), PDX-M12, L1V2, AR6K, GB12D4 (2X)
2008 328xi - AVH7800BT, GM-D8604, GM-D9605, MT230, GB40, XE 200, Primo 12"
2011 XC60 T6 RD - She won't let me.

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Darth V8R Avatar
Darth V8R Vance Navarrette
Beaverton, Oregon, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
In reply to # 1500541 by Darth V8R
The goal was to fix the heater that leaked from the first time I fired the engine. Turns out there was a pinhead sized hole in the pipes from the heater core to the firewall. I thought the pipes were copper, but when I tried to solder them I realized they were steel and had simply corroded through. <sigh> The pipes were never serviced separately, so there is no part number for them and I was unable to find any on line. So I ordered the Robsport Stainless reproduction pipes. Rather spendy! I will report on the pipes after I attempt installation.

Lads:

Color me stupid. eye popping smiley Got the Robsport heater pipes, and while they are very pretty and would last forever, they do not fit cars equipped with A/C. Doh!

So, back to the drawing board on fixing my leaky heater pipe. It is 14mm steel tubing, which works out to 9/16" for those of us still using the Imperial/SAE measurement system. So no copper tubing immediately available to try bending my own. I can get 1/2" and 5/8", but not 9/16".

My neighbor took a look at it for me (he has a TIG welder) and said it would be dicey trying to weld it. <whimper>. He also found a second hole in the pipe. What is interesting is that the pipe corroded from the OUTSIDE, not the inside as you might expect. My guess is the foam block used to seal the firewall must have been holding water (road spray and salt, likely) against the outside of the pipe, so it went bye-bye.

So now what? I tried looking for some suitable fittings at my hardware store. Hah! Might as well have asked for parts made of unobtanium.

Will try McMaster Carr for some fittings. I am also experimenting with a layer of epoxy on the outside of the pipe which seals the holes, to be followed by wrapping it with epoxy plumbing tape. Ghetto engineering at its finest.

Any suggestions?

Vance



1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, navy blue interior
Bare metal respray, Crower cam, raised compression
ported heads, modified Zenith carbs, 0.060" overbore

Bergie Bob Berg
Powell, Ohio, USA   USA
Vance...I would try a race car fabricator (experts in welding) or good radiator shop....stop in with the core and feel them out...
these folks?

http://www.racetechmotorsports.com/
https://preracing.com/
https://www.macsradiator.com/auto-repair-portland-or/

lgray001 Avatar
lgray001 Gold Member Larry Gray
Lexington, VA, USA   USA
1976 Triumph TR7 "POS-2"
1979 Triumph TR7 "The Money Pit"
You might try cutting the tube at both ends and replacing it with rubber hose. It would be best to flare the ends that you have. This would make a better seal.


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carltr7 Avatar
carltr7 carl g
halifax, ns, Canada   CAN
Finished stripping my donor car: a 2004 Malibu.
I have the LX9 engine, harness, ECU and a few plasticky bits that I can sell on ebay or whatever.
I also grabbed the spoiler which I think might look OK.

Oh and I ordered a Speeduino ECU.
I like my Megasquirt but the Speeduino is way more versatile for about 220$ CAD.
I'll be documenting the engine and speeduino work on my homepage if anyone's curious.

parrisw William P
Victoria, BC, Canada   CAN
Have a link to you’re page? Is speeduino arduino based?

In reply to # 1501590 by carltr7 Finished stripping my donor car: a 2004 Malibu.
I have the LX9 engine, harness, ECU and a few plasticky bits that I can sell on ebay or whatever.
I also grabbed the spoiler which I think might look OK.

Oh and I ordered a Speeduino ECU.
I like my Megasquirt but the Speeduino is way more versatile for about 220$ CAD.
I'll be documenting the engine and speeduino work on my homepage if anyone's curious.

Growling-Grinnall-V8 Avatar
Growling-Grinnall-V8 Alastair Campbell
Portadown, Northern Ireland, UK   GBR
Vance- have you considered getting hold of a non air-con unit?

I got round the leaking broken pipes problem this way- just replaced the entire unit. Just checked the pipes by connected the thing to the outside tap using a hose under mains pressure for leaks and resverse flushed it before fitting.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR7-TR8-HEATER-UNIT-UNDER-DASH-MATRIX-BLOWER-MOTOR-SWITCHES-ETC/202018124850?hash=item2f0937f432:g:-KIAAOSwix9Zjcl2

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