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Propshaft
#1
  This topic is about my 1980 Triumph TR7
gerald4247 Avatar
gerald4247 Gerald Davies
Ventura, CA, USA   USA
Hi All,
I am replacing the propshaft (driveshaft) on my 1980 TR7 5 Speed due to a bad joint and vibration. My question is what is the correct orientation for the shaft as I think the one currently on my car may be wrong.
I believe that using my attached picture as reference, the end with the RED band should go towards the transmission and the YELLOW band towards the diff....can anyone confirm the correct way round or does it matter.....

Many thanks
&
Happy New Year

g

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nick Avatar
nick nick m
Bend, OR, USA   USA
The CV joint, which looks like it is the red end goes against the gearbox.



nick

lgray001 Avatar
lgray001 Gold Member Larry Gray
Lexington, VA, USA   USA
1976 Triumph TR7 "POS-2"
1979 Triumph TR7 "The Money Pit"
Based on the attached diagram and the orientation and size of the CV joints, I believe the yellow striped end goes toward the gearbox.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-01-09 11:23 PM by lgray001.


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Darth V8R Avatar
Darth V8R Vance Navarrette
Beaverton, OR, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
In reply to # 1506779 by lgray001 Based on the attached diagram and the orientation and size of the CV joints, I believe the yellow striped end goes toward the gearbox.

Larry:

Either way is correct, depending on the model year. Triumph tried both orientations over the years in an attempt to reduce noise/vibration. The CV joint in the driveline was a good idea, but apparently demanded tighter tolerances in the CV joint than their supplier could reliably deliver, so there were complaints and warranty claims from many owners.

Add to that the fact that a CV joint is not easily rebuildable and you have yet another source of issues that led to Triumphs rather poor reputation.

My PO swapped out the original driveline for a conventional U-Joint driveline. I rebuilt it, painted it and tossed it back in. No issues.

I considered going back to an original driveline, but ultimately left it as is. You can't see it, so despite being anal-retentive about originality I don't really mind.

Vance



1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, navy blue interior
Bare metal respray, Crower cam, raised compression
ported heads, modified Zenith carbs, 0.060" overbore

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POW Peter Wirth
HEBRON, NH - New Hampshire, USA   USA
Last summer a weird vibration started and got progressively worse. Diagnosed by me on the first try (a miracle) to be obviously the driveshaft, I ordered a brandy-ass new one from RimmerBros at just $145.25 (another miracle). I researched getting the old one set up with U-joints but that looked quite expensive and pointless when compared to the cost of new. If anyone would like my old driveshaft as a candidate a U-joint candidate, it's yours.

Darth V8R Avatar
Darth V8R Vance Navarrette
Beaverton, OR, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
In reply to # 1506986 by POW Last summer a weird vibration started and got progressively worse. Diagnosed by me on the first try (a miracle) to be obviously the driveshaft, I ordered a brandy-ass new one from RimmerBros at just $145.25 (another miracle). I researched getting the old one set up with U-joints but that looked quite expensive and pointless when compared to the cost of new. If anyone would like my old driveshaft as a candidate a U-joint candidate, it's yours.

Do Tell.

Can I assume the original driveshaft (aka propshaft) was the OEM style with a CV joint?

As to the replacement, was it a u-jointed shaft, or a CV style?

Inquiring minds want to know. spinning smiley sticking its tongue out

Vance



1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, navy blue interior
Bare metal respray, Crower cam, raised compression
ported heads, modified Zenith carbs, 0.060" overbore

Bergie Bob Berg
Powell, OH, USA   USA
My driveshaft also went a few years back throwing grease so I replaced it with a new steel (DOM) slip yoke unit from Dynotech driveshaft's in Detroit..its lighter than original, steel and bulletproof...costs +/- $350 and you will never have to replace...there is a spicer flange fitting (off memory 2-2-459) that fits the factory holes at the gearbox and at the differential flange the holes don't match(very close) so you need to re drill with different orientation. ...


http://www.dynotechengineering.com/


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POW Peter Wirth
HEBRON, NH - New Hampshire, USA   USA
In reply to # 1507096 by Darth V8R
In reply to # 1506986 by POW Last summer a weird vibration started and got progressively worse. Diagnosed by me on the first try (a miracle) to be obviously the driveshaft, I ordered a brandy-ass new one from RimmerBros at just $145.25 (another miracle). I researched getting the old one set up with U-joints but that looked quite expensive and pointless when compared to the cost of new. If anyone would like my old driveshaft as a candidate a U-joint candidate, it's yours.

Do Tell.

Can I assume the original driveshaft (aka propshaft) was the OEM style with a CV joint?

As to the replacement, was it a u-jointed shaft, or a CV style?

Inquiring minds want to know. spinning smiley sticking its tongue out

Vance

Yes the one replaced was an original with CV joints and the Rimmer replacement was OEM style also with CV joints. The replacement was a tick smaller in diameter and the CV joint ends were welded up subtly different from the original. It fit perfectly. Oh, and by the way that price of $145.25 included shipping. The propshaft itself was $109.00. - Pete

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