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Another Newbie--bought TR8--Transmission question

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johnjb John B
Auburn, washington, USA   USA
Just purchase a 1980 TR8---But has second gear problems.
Changed the oil as recommended on this site--but still grinds and pops out of gear.

So the options are:
1. have it rebuilt
2. find a good used one
3. purchase a rebuilt one

Can anyone give an approximate cost for each of these options?

I would have all the work done and I would expect with the transmission out
I might as well have a new clutch and release bearing..

Anyway any help would be appreciated--I am in the Seattle area.

Thanks, John

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darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, Washington, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
Definitely replace the clutch disc, pressure plate and throwout bearing if you have the transmission out. Also check the condition of the clutch fork, they can wear and then punch through the pivot.

I don't have much help in the price area, but two data points.

Used transmission on Craigslist no too far from you:

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/d/tr-7-8-rover-sd-1/6404712912.html - $475, but who knows if it will be any better

Rebuilt from The Wedge Shop:

http://www.thewedgeshopstore.com/rebuilt-rover-transmission-tr8-tr7-lt77/ - $1017.10 plus shipping with core exchange

However, they are not that exotic, and any competent manual transmission shop should be able to rebuild. Of course, the trick is finding a competent shop sometimes!



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
Rebuilds run around a grand if you do one locally. Helps if you have access to spare parts just in case something is really messed up. Easy to rebuild these things. They go together pretty much like a T5 so any competent tranny shop can do them. They may not be willing to find all the parts so its better if you grab the basic rebuild parts yourself and drop them off with the tranny. At a minimum you will need bearings, gaskets, oil pump, seals, and synchro rings. Those should run you 300 to 350. Been a while since I had one rebuilt, but I use to drop off a couple at a time and the guy would work on them at his leisure and charge me 300 cash a piece. If you can find a shop that will pull the tranny, rebuild it, and reinstall it for $1500 plus the cost of a new clutch, you are doing pretty well. Just remember the trannys had a crossover point where they went to larger bearings. The TR8s except for early coupes, had the later style, but that doesn't mean someone hasn't swapped in one of the earlier ones. Order parts based on the serial number on the case. Don't just assume its a TR8 so it has a later trans. A known good 5 speed should be worth about $300. A unknown one but one that doesn't have a sloppy input shaft is worth $175-200. One with a sloppy shaft is a $75 parts box needing a rebuild. I see them listed for way more than that, so maybe a new guy with no connections might pay that in desperation. First thing to go on these is the first bearing on the input shaft. Seen many of these go bad. Tranny gets low on fluid. Drive around town and you don't build enough heat to cause an issue. Get on the highway and go for a one hour trip. Driving along no problem and then the bearing starts to seize, power drops, you pull over and then it seizes completely. Call a tow truck. If your trans has a TR8 part number, rebuild it. Keeping that part number may make a difference somewhere down the road as opposed to swapping in a box with a TR7 number. Try to keep it local and save shipping costs.

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johnjb John B
Auburn, washington, USA   USA
Thanks for the quick reply and great information guys.

Sounds like I need to talk with some local TR8 owners. I did join the Wedge Owners Association.
So will see if there are any local shops with experience on rebuilding.

How do I tell the difference between the TR8 and TR7 transmissions???

TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
CL for TR7 CN for TR8. Changeover to bigger bearings and shafts was box #22476/22477. No internal difference between a 7 and an 8 box other than speedo drive gears, because 7s and 8s have different ratio rear ends. 8s have a slightly shorter shifter quadrant than the 7 quadrants. The two also have different shift arm pivot pins, and different throwout bearing carriers because the clutch covers and flywheels are not the same. Like I said before, pretty basic 5 speed box. Any competent rebuilder can do them. Doesn't need to be an overpriced British specialty shop. Chances are the British shop will just send it out anyway and mark up the price. Thats what the shop mentioned earlier in this thread does. Then if something isn't right, you have to mail it back across the country and trust the shop that sends it out is going to cover the mistake the shop he sent it out to created. Yea, no thanks. Take it someplace local and then if something is wrong, there is no question who is responsible.

darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, Washington, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
BTW, based on your description, this probably isn't the problem, but have you checked the bushings on the shifter extension? The original rubber ones can disintegrate over the years, if they've never been replaced, they could be completely gone. This can make it hard to select gears. An easy check is to try lifting the shifter straight up. It shouldn't have any movement in that direction, if it does, the bushing on the extension are going or gone. They can be replaced without removing the gearbox, either from underneath the car, or even from the inside.



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

johnjb John B
Auburn, washington, USA   USA
Thanks for the info

I wish that was the problem--I have no play went I lift up the the shifter.


All other gears are fine---just second gear--seems to be better sometimes on a hot day and
warmed up, but still is not right.

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Bergie Bob Berg
Powell, Ohio, USA   USA
you can check with john at quantum mechanics in oxford Connecticut...he rebuilds the TR8 LT77 5 speed (believe for wedgeshop also) other british marque trannies...when I lived in Connecticut near him I visited the shop(9 yrs ago) and he does all the work himself and knows these boxes well and has replacement hard parts...don't know if he is still in business and best to call and talk live...
http://www.quantumechanics.com/

Rick in Miami Avatar
Rick in Miami Rick Z
Miami, Florida, USA   USA
1973 Triumph GT6 MkIII "Spit 6"
1974 Jensen Healey
Before spending a lot of money on transmission / clutch repairs, first try changing your trans oil to Pennzoil Synchromesh Fluid 3501. I had a similar problem in 2nd gear only and only until the gearbox warmed up. The Synchromesh fluid cured it completely. It should be available at your local auto parts store.

Rick

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sliproc Avatar
sliproc Kevin Quistberg E
Long Beach, california, USA   USA
John,

One thing I've learned(the hard way)over the years is try the easy stuff first, while you don't have any play in your shifter the bushings are most likely original. I'd change them out first, they're cheap, you can do them with the tranny in the car, and if you have to rebuild the tranny they'll be replaced anyway. I'd also try Rick's oil recommendation, or some type of super slippery Slick 50 type of oil, what have you got to lose? Speaking of oil, what did the oil you drained look like, were there any metal bits, was there an excessively heavy metallic?

Rick,

Sweet looking Jensen-Healey, I've had mine for 24 years and love it. From time to time on these various boards questions of performance increase or adding a new car to someone's stable come up, my recommendation that they consider a Jensen-Healey as an alternative almost always falls on deaf ears, I guess it's the black sheep in the family of black sheep.

johnjb John B
Auburn, washington, USA   USA
Again thanks for all the help.

I did change the oil with Pennzoil Synchromesh, but it did not seem to make a difference and I did not have any real metal shavings in the old oil
or on the drain plug. but at the same time the the weather
was much older and that did seem to make a difference for the worst.

So I will change the bushings and try some Slick 50---May have to wait until Spring to really know if it helped.
Only drive the car in Summer anyway so I can wait before I jump into any real repair cost.

lgray001 Avatar
lgray001 Gold Member Larry Gray
Lexington, VA, USA   USA
1976 Triumph TR7 "POS-2"
1979 Triumph TR7 "The Money Pit"
Another quick fix may be replacing the bushings on the shifter tunnel. These assure the position of the shifter and can keep it from dropping out of gear.


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