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1976 tr7 no crank no start

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hoomadness Jammie Barnes
Clearwater, Florida, USA   USA
I have a 1976 tr7
It will not start-no crank
All fuses are good,has power on both sides of lead fuse link on positive cable,all grounds are clean and ohm out good.no lites on dash except dim brake lite ,tach jumps when key is turned,blower motor works,horn works and wipers work very slowly,headlights pop up.all other interior functions are inoperative.
Starter is just rebuilt with new solenoid,battery and terminals are new
Ballast resistor test good on both sides
Seems like it has a blown fusible link but where is it ?

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glenzo654 glenn brackett
buzzards bay, mass, USA   USA
there is a neutral safety switch wire on top of the trans what you describe is exactly what happens when not connected or at least not properly
it took me a while to figure out after putting a 5.0 and t5 ford setup in my car and having a two wire plug without a home so i put a jumper wire on the plug and bingo
good luck Glenn

hoomadness Jammie Barnes
Clearwater, Florida, USA   USA
It's a manual ,I know there is a clutch safety switch
Will that affect the dash lites too?
There are two wires near firewall that have small round make and female connections that are not attached both are black



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-10-24 10:53 PM by hoomadness.

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mcmahontr7 Chris McMahon
Fort Worth, Texas, USA   USA
Jammie,

There isn't a clutch or neutral switch. That is why you don't have to be in the car to start it. Can you take pictures of those wires and post them?
If I had this problem, I would start with jumping the starter to see if it will crank over. Use the screwdriver technique. This will bypass everything and give you a place to start.

hoomadness Jammie Barnes
Clearwater, Florida, USA   USA
I did it crank on own that way but very very slowly ,I smell gas so fuel pump is working
Since I posted I repaired a wire behind the battery off of the lead link on positive cable
Now I have the ignition lite,catalyst lite and choke lite on dash cluster
Still no buzzer, dome lite, radio and still no crank no start

Darth V8R Avatar
Darth V8R Vance Navarrette
Beaverton, Oregon, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
In reply to # 1494360 by hoomadness I did it crank on own that way but very very slowly ,I smell gas so fuel pump is working
Since I posted I repaired a wire behind the battery off of the lead link on positive cable
Now I have the ignition lite,catalyst lite and choke lite on dash cluster
Still no buzzer, dome lite, radio and still no crank no start

Jammie:

The Radio probably has its own fuse behind the radio. Usually there is a fuse in the hot lead to the radio. I would not worry about that.

You mentioned that you had to repair the wire coming off the fusible link, and that restored power to your dash lights. Was the wire heat damaged (melted insulation)?.

Here is a SWAG (Scientific Wild Ass Guess): The slow cranking means the starter is damaged/worn out/tired. That means it drew too much current. Eventually the high current draw damaged the fusible link and the tap from the fusible link. So, the fusible link now has too much resistance to pass enough current to spin the starter, but will pass enough current to get a few lights and whatnot working.
The starter was the original problem, which was ignored until it finally opened the fusible link, at which point the car was stored.

When you directly connected the starter, it reluctantly tried to turn over the engine. That is what makes me think it is a root cause - with a new battery and a direct connection, it should crank the engine vigorously.

OK, how to test my SWAG? Use a very heavy wire and jumper the fusible link. Does the engine crank (even if it is slow)? Then the link is bad. Replace the link. Does it now crank, but slowly? Congratulations, you found the reason the car was put in storage. Pull the starter and have it rebuilt.

I won't comment on the radio, dome light, or buzzer. They may or may not spring to life when you get the fusible link replaced as they could have separate issues. Fix the engine cranking issue first.

Vance



1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, navy blue interior
Bare metal respray, Crower cam, raised compression
ported heads, modified Zenith carbs, 0.060" overbore

hoomadness Jammie Barnes
Clearwater, Florida, USA   USA
Ok fantastic thank you very much
I will jumper the fusible link as you suggested
Starter was original and Betty poor and was freshly rebuilt last week so it's good to go new solenoid,brushes and stator work by rebuilder
I'll get back to you

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hoomadness Jammie Barnes
Clearwater, Florida, USA   USA
I ordered new fusible links
To answer your question about melted wire it wasn't just broke in half
Will get back to you when I install the links
Thanks a million

Darth V8R Avatar
Darth V8R Vance Navarrette
Beaverton, Oregon, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
In reply to # 1494498 by hoomadness I ordered new fusible links
To answer your question about melted wire it wasn't just broke in half
Will get back to you when I install the links
Thanks a million

Jamie:

So it cranked when you bypassed the link?

Vance



1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, navy blue interior
Bare metal respray, Crower cam, raised compression
ported heads, modified Zenith carbs, 0.060" overbore

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