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Lifter failure?

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TeeR8 Avatar
TeeR8 Gold Member Henri Lefebvre
Calgary, AB, Canada   CAN
In reply to # 1501935 by Ron Avery ...... How did you get your front bumper so snug to the body? .....

Ron,

I suspect that Darrell could write a good long response, and I could add a few comments as would a few other wedge owners.
It's a topic that has not come up lately, it might be worth your while to start a new topic on that question rather than incorporating it within Darrell's Lifter project.

Just a preview, a Before and After...



Henri
1980 TR8, Platinum
1971 MGB GT, Midnight Blue

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Ron Avery Ron A
Oxnard, CA, USA   USA
Thanks for photos, will do.
Ron



Ron
1980 TR 8
1965 E-Type Jaguar
2016 Aston Martin Vantage GT
Oxnard, CA

Darth V8R Avatar
Darth V8R Vance Navarrette
Beaverton, OR, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
In reply to # 1501927 by darrellwalker I continue to make progress on getting things back together. Got enough that I could put the car back on the ground. Feels good after so long on jack stands. I'll still have to get back under to connect the O2 sensor at least.

I got the new water outlet from D&D that will let me add the bypass back, but that caused a couple more delays. First was that the bypass nipple interfered with the heater return (I made a pipe to go under the intake manifold like original). That wasn't too hard to fix, I just had to bend the pipe a bit. The other issue is that the nipple on the water outlet is 5/8", but the connection at the back of the front cover is 3/4". So I'm waiting on a 5/8" x 3/4" adapter hose.

If all goes well, I may be able to fire it up late next week.

Darrell:

Between the black valve covers and the coated headers, your engine compartment is awesome.

You mentioned the O2 sensors, so I gather the headers have bungs for them. If they are CARB approved, then Ron could install a set.

Did you modify the ECM to go open loop at wide open throttle? It would be worth a few more ponies.

Cheers,

Vance



1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, navy blue interior
Bare metal respray, Crower cam, raised compression
ported heads, modified Zenith carbs, 0.060" overbore

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POW Peter Wirth
HEBRON, NH - New Hampshire, USA   USA
It is interesting that you ran into interference with your heater plumbing since we both seem to have the same set-up. I ran my return via a hard copper pipe lying along the inside of the right valve cover connected with two shorter pieces of heater hose rather than the usual and easier long loopy hose route. Underneath the manifold sounds very tidy too. As for the short hose between new D&D thermostat housing I ran into the same issue with different sized nipples. 5/8" is the size of the D&D but my waterpump nipple is somewhat smaller than 3/4" and because that connector does not have a barb on it I was concerned with a weep. I found that Gates - Charter 5/8" fit fairly easily over the waterpump nipple. 4 inches is all it takes so with any work involving thermostat, waterpump, manifold removal, it's easy and cheap enough to simple cut the hose and replace.

darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, WA, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
In reply to # 1502277 by Darth V8R Between the black valve covers and the coated headers, your engine compartment is awesome.

Thanks!

In reply to # 1502277 by Darth V8R You mentioned the O2 sensors, so I gather the headers have bungs for them. If they are CARB approved, then Ron could install a set.

I had bungs added to the headers, but I'm sure it isn't CARB approved. And you would have to figure out how to get cats in the system, too.

But regarding your next question:

In reply to # 1502277 by Darth V8R Did you modify the ECM to go open loop at wide open throttle? It would be worth a few more ponies.

I'm not using the stock FI system anymore, I have a throttle body system (FiTech).

-Darrell



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA


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darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, WA, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
In reply to # 1502285 by POW It is interesting that you ran into interference with your heater plumbing since we both seem to have the same set-up. I ran my return via a hard copper pipe lying along the inside of the right valve cover connected with two shorter pieces of heater hose rather than the usual and easier long loopy hose route. Underneath the manifold sounds very tidy too. As for the short hose between new D&D thermostat housing I ran into the same issue with different sized nipples. 5/8" is the size of the D&D but my waterpump nipple is somewhat smaller than 3/4" and because that connector does not have a barb on it I was concerned with a weep. I found that Gates - Charter 5/8" fit fairly easily over the waterpump nipple. 4 inches is all it takes so with any work involving thermostat, waterpump, manifold removal, it's easy and cheap enough to simple cut the hose and replace.

I didn't have to move the pipe much, I just hadn't considered the bypass when I made the pipe. I actually matched it exactly to the stock pipe. On a stock manifold, the bypass connection is in a completely different place.

I did experiment with a 5/8" hose over that connection, but I could only get it about halfway up. If I still had the cover off of the engine, I might have machined it a bit to take the 5/8" hose, or installed a 5/8" nipple.



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

bowen6951 Avatar
bowen6951 Gold Member rob bowen
Fontana, CA, USA   USA
Hi Vance,
I would love for his headers to be CARB approved but no one is going to go to the expense of getting California to approve something for maybe 100 units versus $1000s to get it done. I do have a friend that has headers on his EFI car but his smog guy is an old friend and looks the other way because "that's the way it came from the factory", my guy even though he does other work for me would not pass it as he is terrified of the B.A.R. Thanks, Rob

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POW Peter Wirth
HEBRON, NH - New Hampshire, USA   USA
I see what you mean about the close quarters. My heater return just comes strait up a bit like yours but is twisted to the left so it can be connecting to the pipe that lays inboard of the rt valve cover. Turning the pump nipple down just a bit would make life simpler but as my D&D housing was added later I did not want to disturb the pump to do it. - Pete

darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, WA, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
In reply to # 1502319 by POW I see what you mean about the close quarters. My heater return just comes strait up a bit like yours but is twisted to the left so it can be connecting to the pipe that lays inboard of the rt valve cover. Turning the pump nipple down just a bit would make life simpler but as my D&D housing was added later I did not want to disturb the pump to do it. - Pete

I also found a 3/8" MPT x 3/4" hose barb that would have worked, too. But I didn't see any reason to run a 3/4" hose, and I think the hose I got will be a little cleaner.

-Darrell



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

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Darth V8R Avatar
Darth V8R Vance Navarrette
Beaverton, OR, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
In reply to # 1502296 by bowen6951 Hi Vance,
I would love for his headers to be CARB approved but no one is going to go to the expense of getting California to approve something for maybe 100 units versus $1000s to get it done. I do have a friend that has headers on his EFI car but his smog guy is an old friend and looks the other way because "that's the way it came from the factory", my guy even though he does other work for me would not pass it as he is terrified of the B.A.R. Thanks, Rob

I gotta agree with that. It is expensive to get things approved, however I hoped it might be something like Land Rover headers which would have enough volume behind them for CARB approval to make sense. <sigh>

So you are left with stealth modifications, which is what I more or less do as a matter of course. K&N filters, porting, camshaft, free flow mufflers, etc. There is a good deal of power to be picked up that way, and the stock exhaust manifolds are actually pretty well designed and seem to flow well. You do not get the advantage of scavenging from a moving column of gas, but with a modern cam design you should not be giving up a whole lot.

And of course, there is always the option of a larger displacement engine swap.

Vance



1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, navy blue interior
Bare metal respray, Crower cam, raised compression
ported heads, modified Zenith carbs, 0.060" overbore

darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, WA, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
Got some time this morning, and got everything back together. But I have meetings for the rest of the day, so startup will have to wait until tomorrow.

The 3/4" to 5/8" hose worked well for the bypass. I had to cut about 3/4" off of the length, and it was a bear to get in place, but fits well. The I could build up the rest of the cooling and ignition parts that sit above it.

Just need to fill the cooling system and connect the battery, and should be ready to fire up for the cam break in tomorrow!



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA


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POW Peter Wirth
HEBRON, NH - New Hampshire, USA   USA
The 5/8" to 3/4" hose looks good as of course does the rest of the bay. I have a 390 Holley and the same low profile Spectre plenum as you but in polished. What is the finish on your's? My filter also ends up about where your plumbing go's 90°. I sometimes consider satin black for the polished bits and plumbing the whole thing to terminate at the stock FI airbox. And, as if I have not bored you enough, My crankcase breather is as your's but located where your PCV is. My PCV is where your breather is and is plumbed into the back of the Holley.
You'll be happy with the by-pass, Expect to see much more consistent temps with out a big spike when the car is first driven from cold. Before the by-pass my temp would spike quickly to over 3/4, when the thermostat opened, then drop like a stone to under 1/4, and then to a lesser degree repeat until it kind of stabilized at a bit under 1/2. Now, with the by-pass it initially climbs to 1/2 then drops back down to between 1/4 and 1/2 where it sits consistently unless in traffic on a hot day (that's what the fans are for). This with a 180° thermostat. Those D&D's look nice but YIKES on the price.

darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, WA, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
In reply to # 1502431 by POW I have a 390 Holley and the same low profile Spectre plenum as you but in polished. What is the finish on your's?

I had the plenum hydro dipped in a carbon fiber pattern. Originally I painted it with wrinkle paint, but I think I put it on too thick, it looked more like lava!



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA


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Ron Avery Ron A
Oxnard, CA, USA   USA
Boy, I wish my engine bay could look like that. On day if I pull my V8, it will get all cleaned up. However I still won't have those cool headers and intake here in California.
Ron



Ron
1980 TR 8
1965 E-Type Jaguar
2016 Aston Martin Vantage GT
Oxnard, CA

darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, WA, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
I got some unexpected time yesterday, and got everything buttoned up, and decided to start it and break in the cam.

It started up quickly, and while holding it at 2000 RPM, I didn't hear anything unusual, at least from the driver's seat. I had planned on just setting the idle speed to 2000 on the FiTech, but the engineers there I guess decided that 1650 was a reasonable max RPM. I was also maxing out the IAC anyway.

After about 5 minutes, the new coating on the headers started to smoke (not unexpected), so I decided to shut down a bit for them to cool. While that was going on, I discovered I was leaking coolant from the thermostat cover. I figured it probably just needed to be tightened down, but I couldn't find any combination of tools that I had to get to the lower bolt.

So this morning I drained down some coolant, pulled the distributor (for clearance), the top hose, and the by pass hose. I pulled the outlet off, but didn't see any problem with the gasket, and the thermostat hadn't slipped. So I reinstalled, torqued to the ROM value of 20 ft-lbs, plus a couple more for good measure. I don't think I had it anywhere near that, as I originally installed it with the intake off of the car, so I was just holding the intake with one hand while I tightened the bolts. And because of the o-ring design of the D&D outlet, I think it does take a good tightening to get the o-ring compressed.

So back on with the hoses, and then I did what I probably should have done before, pressure tested the system. The first time I didn't add the coolant I had removed, and I found that compressing the system half-full of air takes a lot to pumps on the Mighty-Vac. I gave up at 5 PSI, but it all looked good to that level, so I topped the coolant up, and went up to 15 PSI. There I found a little leak around the coolant level sensor grommet. I was able to wiggle the sensor around a bit and get it to stop, but I may need to order a new grommet. I had replaced it a few years ago. I also got a drop or two from the hose around the bleed fitting on the intake manifold. Cranking down the hose clamp seems to have fixed that one, but I may have to cut a bit of the hose off. The nipple always skins off some hose when I take the hose off, and it may just be time to get a new section of hose there. I left it at 15 PSI for about 5 minutes, and didn't see any more leaks.

So I'm going to wait until it is a bit later in the morning, and try again today.



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

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