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Lifter failure?

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darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, Washington, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
In reply to # 1500925 by POW
In reply to # 1500555 by darrellwalker ... Good to know that the holes are a bit deeper, so that I can use an insert that will include all of the threads.

How long are the thread inserts? Are they long enough to reach those previously unused thread at the bottom of the stripped hole and are you planning on bolts that are long enough to do that, or are you planning on cleaning up the whole hole and using an insert that will reach the bottom? The reason I ask is that if you are planning to butt up against those unused threads with an insert or even if you are planning on using a shorter insert but still utilize those threads with a longer bolt it is highly unlikely that the insert threads will transition perfectly with those at the bottom of the hole. I think you'll end up with a head bolt that screws in well until the existing threads are encountered where the bold will bind and start to strip out the bottom threads.

Maybe this is not your plan at all, just thought I'd mention these concerns. - Pete

The insert will have more thread length than the stud. The hole is about 1.5" deep, so the longest insert I can install would be 1.25" (it needs to be at least 0.25" less than the depth of a blind hole). The stud only has 0.75" of thread, though, so I may go with a 1" insert just to make sure I don't bottom the tool in the hole.



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

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POW Peter Wirth
HEBRON, NH - New Hampshire, USA   USA
Got it.

darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, Washington, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
Did a test run of installing the insert into a scrap block of aluminum. Went smoothly, now just psyching myself up to do it on my block!



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

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Darth V8R Avatar
Darth V8R Vance Navarrette
Beaverton, Oregon, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
In reply to # 1500789 by darrellwalker Despite the setback with the head stud, I'm making good progress getting the engine back together. Though now I have to pull the head and fix the hole before I can go much further.

I'm using a Time-set kit. They have a special head bolt kit, but it is about $500, vs $100 for the regular kit. The difference is a jig to align the hole and make sure it is perpendicular. Since I can't get the block onto my drill press, I started making my own jig. A $25 scrap of aluminum plate from the hardware store was drilled to match the holes in the head for three studs (the one I'm fixing in the middle, and one on each side). I used the head on the plate to start the holes, then once the centers were marked, I used the drill press to finish them.

Once I get the Time-sert kit, I'll enlarge the center hole to match the drill in the kit, that should help keep the hole aligned and perpendicular. It is still going to be a bit nerve wracking to drill the block, however!

Darrell:

You are very detailed. Me, I just run the tap in. Once the threads are stripped, the hole ends up being the correct size for the heli-coil tap.

This is why your engine will kick my engine's @$$. Details man, details. smileys with beer

Vance



1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, navy blue interior
Bare metal respray, Crower cam, raised compression
ported heads, modified Zenith carbs, 0.060" overbore

darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, Washington, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
In reply to # 1501335 by Darth V8R
Darrell:

You are very detailed. Me, I just run the tap in. Once the threads are stripped, the hole ends up being the correct size for the heli-coil tap.

This is why your engine will kick my engine's @$$. Details man, details. smileys with beer

Vance

The threads are not completely gone (though each time I thread something in that hole, more come out). I'm using a solid insert rather than heli-coil, so maybe the hole needs to be a tad bit bigger, too.

I also noticed that one of the holes next to this one may be failing, when I threaded a stud into it to hold/align the plate, I noticed it took more torque than I expected. So I'll probably be doing that hole, too.

Just waiting for the big brown truck to bring the proper length inserts...



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-12-04 12:51 PM by darrellwalker.

darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, Washington, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
Here is the hole drilled and tapped for the insert.



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA


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POW Peter Wirth
HEBRON, NH - New Hampshire, USA   USA
In reply to # 1501352 by darrellwalker Here is the hole drilled and tapped for the insert.

Oh, now you're just showing off! thumbs up

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darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, Washington, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
Here is the insert installed. I didn't mess with any of the other holes, the one I was suspecting was OK after a good clean. New head gaskets arrived earlier than expected, so I got the head back on. Also got the oil system primed.

Still waiting on the new thermostat cover with by-pass from D&D, so I'm holding off on installing the intake. But I can do that almost as easily once the engine is in the car, so I think I'm about ready to attach the subframe and gearbox, and lift it back into the car.



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA


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darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, Washington, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
Off the engine stand, subframe mounted, and on to the lift cart!



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

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Darth V8R Avatar
Darth V8R Vance Navarrette
Beaverton, Oregon, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
I don't know Darrell.

That garage floor looks way too clean. No pools of automotive fluids laying about.

I don't think you are a REAL British car owner. That, or you are photo-shopping your images prior to posting.

Vance



1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, navy blue interior
Bare metal respray, Crower cam, raised compression
ported heads, modified Zenith carbs, 0.060" overbore

darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, Washington, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
In reply to # 1501453 by Darth V8R I don't know Darrell.

That garage floor looks way too clean. No pools of automotive fluids laying about.

I don't think you are a REAL British car owner. That, or you are photo-shopping your images prior to posting.

Vance

Keeping the floor clean keeps the peace with SWMBO smiling smiley

Plus, most of the floor you can see is where the German car parks.



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, Washington, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
I continue to make progress on getting things back together. Got enough that I could put the car back on the ground. Feels good after so long on jack stands. I'll still have to get back under to connect the O2 sensor at least.

I got the new water outlet from D&D that will let me add the bypass back, but that caused a couple more delays. First was that the bypass nipple interfered with the heater return (I made a pipe to go under the intake manifold like original). That wasn't too hard to fix, I just had to bend the pipe a bit. The other issue is that the nipple on the water outlet is 5/8", but the connection at the back of the front cover is 3/4". So I'm waiting on a 5/8" x 3/4" adapter hose.

If all goes well, I may be able to fire it up late next week.



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA


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TeeR8 Avatar
TeeR8 Gold Member Henri Lefebvre
Calgary, Alberta, Canada   CAN
Darrell,

Excellent progress, you should be back on the road well before Christmas.

I really like the look of the front bumper in the first photo, nice and snug against the front and fender recess.

I see all the jack stands on the floor; did you ever consider a QuickJack or an Easy Car Lift for these types of jobs?



Henri
1980 TR8, Platinum
1971 MGB GT, Midnight Blue

darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, Washington, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
In reply to # 1501929 by TeeR8 Darrell,

Excellent progress, you should be back on the road well before Christmas.

I really like the look of the front bumper in the first photo, nice and snug against the front and fender recess.

Thanks, that is the DHC bumper mounted directly to the frame rails, without the rubber spacer.

In reply to # 1501929 by TeeR8 I see all the jack stands on the floor; did you ever consider a QuickJack or an Easy Car Lift for these types of jobs?

Every time I lift the car, I think about a solution like that. I always convince myself that this is the last time I would need something like that. smiling smiley

-Darrell



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

Ron Avery Ron A
Oxnard, California, USA   USA
I wish I had your skills.i love your wheels. I thought about those, but decided they'd be too difficult to keep clean. And I do clean my wheels after every drive. How did you get your front bumper so snug to the body? And I wish I lived were I could have headers on my TR 8. Your car and engine look amazing!!!!Ron



Ron
1980 TR 8
1965 E-Type Jaguar
2016 Aston Martin Vantage GT
Oxnard, CA

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