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Front Strut replacement

Moss Motors
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Tri-Al Avatar
Tri-Al Al Markowski
Cleveland, OH, USA   USA
Took advantage of the Moss Motors 20% discount sale and ordered new front struts and associated parts for replacement. WoW! What a crappy job! Currently still in the process of completing the job, but I think I finally have a handle on it! Never realized that the roll bar had to come off as well. Pretty tedious job re-building the shock tower! The car definitely needed this done! One of the rubber bumpers was half gone! The rubber boot was barely a skeleton of what once was. Should be able to finish the job tomorrow. NOT a simple out with the old and in with the new procedure!

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Don Andy Silver Member Donald Andreozzi
Flat Rock, MI, USA   USA
I did the same this year and it is a more difficult job than described in the books and posts. Just getting the rubber boot back over the strut is a challenge. In fact every step of the process was a challenge.

Tri-Al Avatar
Tri-Al Al Markowski
Cleveland, OH, USA   USA
Agreed! Pretty miserable job all the way around. Took me 3 days, but all seems to be good, now. Definitely needed it. Like a new car in the way it handles! Glad I won't be doing it again any time soon. That rubber boot was a real pain as was the top of the strut assembly. Had to do the driver's side 3 times before the shaft from the strut seated itself! Done and DONE!

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carltr7 Avatar
carltr7 carl g
halifax, NS, Canada   CAN
If it makes you feel any better,
it all comes off 100 times easier next time you have to do it!

Because old TR7s just love antiseize compound.

smileys with beer

AroostookTR7 Avatar
AroostookTR7 Keith Brown
Washburn, ME, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR7 Drophead "Geraldine"
Glad I read this post. It will be my winter project. I have purchased struts but no other parts yet. Are any of the smaller parts available at parts stores, or should I go direct to Moss?

Tri-Al Avatar
Tri-Al Al Markowski
Cleveland, OH, USA   USA
I ordered everything from Moss then realized that most of the "original" stuff was of better quality and in pretty good shape so I re-used most of everything that I could, (i.e. the rubber bushings, strut mounts, etc.) I DID replace the springs as well. Not sure that was needed, but the struts themselves definitely were and made a big improvement! I then did the rears and they were so horrendously simple, you could do them every year! The spring actually "falls out"! Very simple procedure. Bought all the cheapest stuff as it's not a daily driver and probably won't get many new miles. Enjoy!

AroostookTR7 Avatar
AroostookTR7 Keith Brown
Washburn, ME, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR7 Drophead "Geraldine"
I am working on the strut project bit by bit.
I have one strut assembly removed,
My ball joint gators are shot. Can I find new gators, or do I need to replace the ball joints ?

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TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
Ball joints on the wedge are one of those things I just always change whenever I'm in there. Can't ever remember doing front struts without replacing ball joints, tie rod ends, lower control arm bushings, and steering boots at the same time. All of those pieces wear together and conspire to give that dreaded 45mph shimmy. But, I always have new spares kicking around so I don't have to wait for a shipment. I also have spare lower arms that I can clean up ahead of time, and I have the ever important 20 ton shop press. But then again, its December in mMaine, what else you going to be doing the next 5 months. Now might be a good time to consider spring upgrades and maybe even coil overs.

Tri-Al Avatar
Tri-Al Al Markowski
Cleveland, OH, USA   USA
After replacing my ball joints, I drilled a hole in the bottom and inserted a grease zerk so I can shoot a shot of grease in them from time to time!

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AroostookTR7 Avatar
AroostookTR7 Keith Brown
Washburn, ME, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR7 Drophead "Geraldine"
I have the left front strut/hub assembly out, have not tackled taking it apart yet. I have removed the left tie rod end, no problem.

My problem is with the control arm bolt and bushing. Apparently there is a metal sleeve inside the control arm bushing, and my bolt seems to have corroded to the sleeve. Cannot get it to budge out to remove the control arm, even though the arm rotates freely, as does the bolt. Am I missing something, or do I need to sawzall the bolt ?

TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
Suspension bolts seizing inside the control arm bushing sleeve is real common. If you cant get it too free up by soaking it with penetrating oil and some well placed hammer whacks, you are going to have to cut the bolt. It gets tricky trying to get a sawzall in there. The bolt is hardened so it takes some work to cut it. You have to be very careful not to bugger up the subframe with the blade bouncing around. You will need a new bushing, sleeve and obviously a new bolt. Check the hole in the subframe to make sure the hole has not obliged. If it has, you will need to weld in hardened washers to provide a round mounting surface. If you leave it and bolt back into the ovaled hole, the front end shimmy will still be there. Once anything in that front end wears, the car starts with that 45mph shimmy. Every vibration hastens the wear on every other part. If you don't completely solve the problem, you will be back in there in short order replacing everything again. Its good practice to replace everything. Its also good practice to weld those washers onto the subframe just for good measure. Reassemble with lots of anti seize. Use spring compressors before you go and remove that top nut or that spring can release all of that compression force at once and potentially hurt someone.

AroostookTR7 Avatar
AroostookTR7 Keith Brown
Washburn, ME, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR7 Drophead "Geraldine"
Thank you for the advise, I will keep bathing it in breakaway to see if that works. Feels better knowing this is common.

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