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New to me TR7

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RacingDreamz Avatar
RacingDreamz Ben Jones
Mountain City, Tennessee, USA   USA
I just got in a 1979 TR7. It came with a bunch of spare parts as well as a new rebuilt(Rimmer Bros rebuilt kit) engine. My problem currently is the running of the engine that's in the car. It has a terrible miss when cold(have to use manual choke). At idle, it's rough, wont barely run. But once it's on the road, it pulls great. And it's smooth running. It puts out a lot of black smoke which tells me it's flooding real bad. I'm not a mechanic by any means and really dont know of any close by that could work on a British car. So, what are my options? Should I get a carb kit from Moss Motors or someplace like that and try to do it myself or what? Oh, the car needs a paint job really bad too. No rust, new suspension and bushings and brakes in the front and rear. So it handles just fine. It's just real ugly and a terrible miss. Not sure what to do with other engine though, yet. My switch or sell it.
Any advice, suggestions or comments, are welcome. smiling smiley Thanks

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sliproc Avatar
sliproc Kevin Quistberg E
Long Beach, california, USA   USA
Ben,

A miss is usually a timing or an ignition issue and black smoke doesn't always indicate carb problems. Why don't you do a compression test then check the timing before you start tearing the carbs apart. That will give you a general idea of the condition of the motor and might even solve the problem.

RacingDreamz Avatar
RacingDreamz Ben Jones
Mountain City, Tennessee, USA   USA
Thanks, Kevin. When I say miss, it's a bad stutter on low rpm. Once it's warmed up and revved, driving down the road at 2500 rpm or better, it smooths out. Would that be timing? But it has to be choked to start, even in warm temperatures.

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sliproc Avatar
sliproc Kevin Quistberg E
Long Beach, california, USA   USA
Ben,

You're saying you got two motors with the car(one in the car, one on a stand) correct? The tests will establish a baseline on the motor before you start fooling around with the auxiliary systems(fuel and ignition). To answer your question, yes it could be timing. The timing necessarily advances as the rpms in the motor increase, which might explain why it runs well at one end of the rpm scale and not the other. What do you know about this motor, by your description you could be talking about a competition motor, they're tuned to run at high rpm and generally run poorly at low rpm.

RacingDreamz Avatar
RacingDreamz Ben Jones
Mountain City, Tennessee, USA   USA
Yes, two separate engines. One in the car and the one on the stand(now on a tire on ground). The new one, on the ground now, has never been run. It was just rebuilt. The engine in the car is the one that has problems at low idle. And it stinks. Smells like gas. Nasty burnt raw gas. So it's flooding bad. At low idle. I moved the car around today, and it started right up, just stuttered really bad. I had to keep the revs up in order to move it. It wont idle right at low rpms. Clutch, gearbox and transmission feels real good. No grinding at all(unlike my six). Brakes feel real good.
But I did get the inside cleaned up fairly good. Seats are in better condition that I thought. Passenger has two holes at upper right bolster and driver has one, same area. But they are clean. The door cards, cleaned up nicely but passenger door handle needs more 'scrubbing'. I'll fix that soon. All glass is good, dash is good. Just needs that low rpm stutter fixed and a paint job and this will be a very nice car. Even with the engine in it. No telling what it would do with the hi po engine in it. winking smiley


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RacingDreamz Avatar
RacingDreamz Ben Jones
Mountain City, Tennessee, USA   USA
Oh, and carpeting. Can't forget about the carpeting.

TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
Sounds like it could be a vacuum leak at the carbs. Try running the car at idle and spray carb cleaner around the area where the carbs mount to the intake. If the idle goes up, that means its sucking in the carb cleaner thru a vacuum leak. Next thing I'd look at is anything that has to do with the carbs choke and idle circuits. May not be your problem, but its a good place to start looking.

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RacingDreamz Avatar
RacingDreamz Ben Jones
Mountain City, Tennessee, USA   USA
Thanks, Todd. I'll try that. smiling smiley

RacingDreamz Avatar
RacingDreamz Ben Jones
Mountain City, Tennessee, USA   USA
Before I begin to search for the problems, can anyone tell me what the timing should be set at and how to check it(without a light)? Anything I should check for? Thanks again everyone. smiling smiley

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sliproc Avatar
sliproc Kevin Quistberg E
Long Beach, california, USA   USA
Ben,

Looks like a solid purchase with a spare engine to boot. For your next purchase I'd highly recommend a Robert Bentley Workshop Manual it will give you the settings you'll need to static time the motor. Next I'd buy a timing light and a compression gauge, I don't use them that often but I'm always glad I have them when I need them.
It's unlikely you have a competition engine in your car that was just an example of a well tuned engine that runs poorly at low rpm. If your timing is fouled up that could be one explanation for the gas smell, flooding. If the timing is off and there is no spark during the compression cycle you could be blowing unburned gas through the motor. When I'm trying to solve a problem I always try the easiest fixes first if they don't work you can always get into the carbs next. Also don't forget the compression test, you could be running a dead cylinder.

jb4249 Avatar
jb4249 Ted Bush
Highland Heights, USA   USA
My original TR7 engine is going to the machine shop tomorrow for a rebuild. I want it to look like that, it has to run good its beautiful.

RacingDreamz Avatar
RacingDreamz Ben Jones
Mountain City, Tennessee, USA   USA
Ok, today the guy that has worked on some of our cars before came over today. I started it for him and immediately he said "BAD GAS". Due to the smell. He pulled the plugs, they were all black and one was still wet. So I put some fuel system cleaner in the little bit of gas that was in it and added a little more fresh gas. I started it again and kept it running. It seemed to smooth out a little better. At least it would rev easier. But it still died on it's on. So the thought is for now, just bad gas. It has a new electronic ignition in it.

So, what's the best brand of plugs for these engines? NGK, Bosche? It has Champion in it now and I've never had any luck with Champion plugs in any car I've had the past 45 yrs. What should I gap them at?

I put the top up also, finally. Several gaping holes and rips so if anyone can direct me to the best place for a top.

Again, thanks to everyone for their support and help. smiling smiley We appreciate it.

Andrew1966 Andrew Ward
Abbotsford, BC, Canada   CAN
8 degrees before TDC. I dont know how to do it without a timing light.

wright p.j. wright
pittsburgh, pa, USA   USA
1972 Triumph TR6 "MIASSIS DRAGON"
Buy the maintenance manual and take an evening to study up with a good cigar and some scotch. Then like they are saying start with the easy stuff but the compression gauge and timing light is a must regardless.. After a while you will realize its not Rocket Science .
PJ

RacingDreamz Avatar
RacingDreamz Ben Jones
Mountain City, Tennessee, USA   USA
smiling smiley I already downloaded a complete 419 page manual on the car. As for the cigar and scotch, dont smoke any more but I do make my own whiskey. Got a half gallon of it just for medicinal purposes, ya know. I've been studying up on it.
The plugs in it are shot. Completely. Smells, once you think about it, like bad gas. So I got some new plugs(NGK), some fuel treatment and more fresh gas(there wasnt much in the tank anyway). Going to change all that tomorrow. Then we'll see how she does.
I meant to get a compression tester when I was in the auto parts store but somehow forgot. I'll see what happens after new plugs and take it from there.

Thanks all smiling smiley

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