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anybody thinking about doing a V8 conversion

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Helzy Avatar
Helzy Silver Member Kent Blair
Calgary, Alberta, Canada   CAN
1978 Triumph TR7 "Lady Di"
In reply to # 1471394 by diver For those that have a Mallory setup, get rid of it. Mallory is no more, they were bought out by MSD.
I was in the middle of installing a new Mallory distributor in my Buick engine when it decided not to work. They could not fix the problem so the old distributor went back in. Later I found that Mallory had bought out by MSD. Ask about Malloy my distributor not working, no problem and MSD set me all new parts no charge, works great.

Diver

I wonder if they'd do the same with this silly hyfire6

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Darth V8R Avatar
Darth V8R Vance Navarrette
Beaverton, Oregon, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
In reply to # 1471242 by dhuddleson It is very rare to have had anyone report a 3.5 Rover V8 that dropped a liner, but many years ago at the TRF Summer Party someone invited me over to their car to show me their little "treasure box" in the trunk. In there he had a full cylinder liner that had become so loose it simply slid right out when they disassembled the motor. Before disassembly it supposedly made some serious knocking sounds (yeah, I bet...)

My own story is with the later 4.0 and 4.6 as fitted to Disco I & II and P38 Range Rovers. I had a 1998 D1 with 4.0 and one day driving to work it had a strange light shake or shiver when stopped at traffic lights. It still had plenty of power, but then the Check Engine light came on to indicate something more ominous. Check my photos of the end result, a liner that dropped a significant amount. I still have that block and may yet use it for something as otherwise it is in great condition.

From the color of the lifter valley, it looks like the oil was changed regularly, and that it was a fairly high mileage engine. So at least you got some use out of it before the motor packed it in.

As to using it for something else, it will need that cylinder to be re-sleeved (but you knew that). I would have the other cylinders sonic checked to make sure that no other cylinder will go belly up anytime soon. If you need to have all 8 holes sleeved, the block is scrap, but if the other cylinders have enough meat in them, then you would only need to sleeve the one cylinder.

Vance



1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, navy blue interior
Bare metal respray, Crower cam, raised compression
ported heads, modified Zenith carbs, 0.060" overbore

dhuddleson Avatar
dhuddleson David Huddleson
Manotick, Ontario, Canada   CAN
That Discovery engine had maybe 100k miles on it, so not really high mileage. It had a good service history record and I continued in a similar manner. The way I would fix this block (if I ever decide to...), is to replace the bad sleeve and if all others are still in spec, or can be bored to next level, do that. Another method to attempt to avoid those loose liners is "pinning" the liners down at the bottom end. This technique is certainly done in the Australian Rover V8 community and it seems to work well. Much cheaper than attempting to replace all liners with "top hat" ones....

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Darth V8R Avatar
Darth V8R Vance Navarrette
Beaverton, Oregon, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
In reply to # 1474006 by dhuddleson That Discovery engine had maybe 100k miles on it, so not really high mileage. It had a good service history record and I continued in a similar manner. The way I would fix this block (if I ever decide to...), is to replace the bad sleeve and if all others are still in spec, or can be bored to next level, do that. Another method to attempt to avoid those loose liners is "pinning" the liners down at the bottom end. This technique is certainly done in the Australian Rover V8 community and it seems to work well. Much cheaper than attempting to replace all liners with "top hat" ones....

I didn't know that was an option, but it certainly seems reasonable. Approximate cost per hole?

Vance



1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, navy blue interior
Bare metal respray, Crower cam, raised compression
ported heads, modified Zenith carbs, 0.060" overbore

Bergie Bob Berg
Powell, Ohio, USA   USA
MSD did purchase Mallory electric two years ago and phased out distributor and ignition product line forcing you to buy MSD only...all distributor replacement parts will be available and superseded to MSD new part number...ignition boxes are not supported...MSD is forcing you to convert if you want new to their distributors and ign boxes going forward.. Mallory fuel pumps continue under new MSD Sku number also...my distributor (3764301) and hyfire box going strong still...

dhuddleson Avatar
dhuddleson David Huddleson
Manotick, Ontario, Canada   CAN
Cost for "pinning the sleeves" is unknown to me, and seems to be something that is done more "down under" in Australia. What is the name of that Triumph/Rover specialist down there? I think they may follow that process....

Oh, here, this is what I was thinking of: http://www.triumphroverspares.com.au/

bowen6951 Avatar
bowen6951 Gold Member rob bowen
Fontana, California, USA   USA
I had at one time thought about another engine and flanged liners which is a whole lot of money. I found this by some resourceful Landy lad (who must be related to Todd) and found it interesting. Thanks, Rob


https://landroverforums.com/forum/general-tech-help-8/how-i-fixed-my-land-rover-tick-slipped-sleeve-48770/

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TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
Pinning the liners is a do it yourself type of project. Cost is whatever the cost of 16 allen screws is. If you want, you can also consider the cost of a drill bit and tap into the equation. You drill and tap two holes per cylinder below the bottom of the piston travel Then cut the allen screws down so they don't protrude into the cylinder, and install the screws with locktite and a lock washer. Wouldn't hurt to go back and dremel away any of the screw that happens to end up sticking out a hair into the cylinder. Pretty much ensures a good engine core won't slip a liner unless you do something really stupid. If you already have a slipped liner, then you need top hats and thats going to run you a couple of Gs. Google pinning Rover cylinder liners. There are some excellent write ups on how to do it, so I'm not going to bother repeating something thats been done well already.

toofast4you Silver Member Mike M
Charleston, SC, USA   USA
I did a 350 small block with T56 six speed transmission and a Ford 9" rear end in 2 TR7's I had 20 or so years ago. First was a 1981 TR7 convertible(no pics) and a $250.00 1977 TR7 coupe (pics). The 1981 was in great shape but the 1977 was a basket case and had been wrecked in the front valance panel so I thought why not. The 1981 had a hood scoop the size of a big mailbox but the 1977 had a small hood scoop due to lowering the engine crossmember 3"". The headlights didn't flip up in the 1977 so I installed 1994 Camaro headlights. I believe I used the stock TR7 front struts but added coilovers by welding on lower plate for the springs.

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jacko241 Avatar
jacko241 Silver Member Joe J
Saint Augustine, Florida, USA   USA
I was told that TR8 engine mounts will bolt to a TR7 crossmember. Is this true?

TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
No, but, TR7 and TR8 use the same basic subframe. The TR7 gets an engine mounting plate in the middle for the TR7 lower engine mount. The TR8 does not get this. It gets two upside down Us made out of stamped boxed and welded steel out at either end. The engine sits between them and has engine brackets and rubber engine mounts that go between the engine brackets and the engine "cradle" on the subframe. The TR8 cradles are pretty elaborate. No way you could duplicate them, but you can fabricate something different out of bent round tubing that accomplishes the same thing. Problem is, you would have to use a jig to locate said round tubing. Unless you have a TR8 subframe to copy, you are better off just spending the money and buying a TR8 subframe. Rimmer has them NOS for something like $700 plus shipping. Some of the vendors will take your TR7 subframe and have angle iron brackets welded on to mimic TR8. Those are in the $425 range plus your core, plus shipping both ways. I have several used ones hanging from the rafters of the garage. I'd part with one for $400, no core, shipping from Mass. If you want me to make a jig for you, I can do that for $125 plus shipping. If you can't find pictures of what a TR7 and a TR8 subframe look like on Google images, I can post photos.

toofast4you Silver Member Mike M
Charleston, SC, USA   USA
I fabricated my mounts to fit the Small block Chevy engine onto the TR7 subframe. It wasn't that difficult. I'm not sure about using a TR8 subframe or the 215ci TR8 engine.


In reply to # 1484160 by jacko241 I was told that TR8 engine mounts will bolt to a TR7 crossmember. Is this true?

tr8mgbv8 jim s
sanford, north carolina, USA   USA
in the middle of a conversion and need lower radiator mount for an A/C car. Thought I could use the TR7 setup but the radiator slants ans is too close to the engine to allow belt changes.

toofast4you Silver Member Mike M
Charleston, SC, USA   USA
If I'm not mistaken, I notched my frame rails maybe 1" leaving a 1"×3" U shaped piece of metal I then welded back in to keep everything strong. I them bought a Griffin radiator and slid it between the 'cutouts' standing it upright. I did lower the bottom radiator mount a couple of inches so the radiator would fit. Then made a fan shroud and had no cooling issues with the engine driven fan.


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tr7v8mike Avatar
tr7v8mike Gold Member Michael Booth
SYDNEY, NSW, Australia   AUS
I just finished installing a 26" x 19" radiator and had the same problem. I tilted the base of the bracket forward about 20(?) deg and removed the top brackets. Cut holes in the internal panels inside the nose of the car to take the mounting pins on top of the radiator. All nice and snug.

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