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6.2L LS3 into my coupe

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Darth V8R Avatar
Darth V8R Vance Navarrette
Beaverton, Oregon, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
In reply to # 1466925 by tr7v8mike I don't know Todd ..... doesn't look strong enough to me.

I agree. Looks rather flimsy. But if you weld in some 1" (2.5cm to the rest of the world) rebar it MIGHT hold up.

Vance



1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, navy blue interior
Bare metal respray, Crower cam, raised compression
ported heads, modified Zenith carbs, 0.060" overbore

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TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
Making progress on my feasibility study on the independent rear end. Everything is disassembled. Center diff has been placed under car and wheels mocked in position. Measurements taken. Line of sights taken to make sure there is no obvious reason not to do this. Everything checks out. Clears fuel cell. Plenty of room for a couple of 3" exhaust tubes. Only issue is going to be the top wishbone will most likely foul on the frame rails when the car is at full compression or maybe even at half compression. Going to have to make upper wishbones that have a curve downward where the frame rails are. Not a big deal. Lots of cars do this including the donor Camaro. Hubs are already at Glens getting a wheel bolt pattern adjustment. Camaro used 9/16" studs at 5X4.75. I want Ford 1/2" studs 5X4.5. Should be a simple redrill as there is plenty of metal there. The brake hats and rotors I already purchased for the rear of the Explorer 8.8 won't work, so I need to do some more shopping. Utilizing the stock caliper mounts will require the use of no less than a 12.19 rotor; the same dimension as the fronts I just finished. The brake hat depth is also completely wrong. But on a bright note, it looks as thou I can simply slip on a rotor and bolt on the calipers, once all the numbers floating around in my head get put down on paper. Thinking 12.19" solid rotors will do the trick. My buddy Al is running those on his 8.8 rear end, and man that car stops. Axles look to be the easiest part of the whole operation. Because of the way the aluminum center section is constructed, I will need one axle 1.5" longer than the other. My driveshaft guy recommended a place here in Ma. that is a full service rear end, driveshaft, axle place. They make axles, narrow rear ends, make driveshafts, etc. Their website lists prices and they almost look to cheap to believe. I will need to have 2 splined shafts made, or I could just shorten the ones I have. They have an option to use heavy duty steel for another $10 an axle so I'll probably just end up with new ones and sell the Camaro ones. My driveshaft guy said he could shorten the Camaro driveshaft no problem. Recommended I keep it rather than doing a completely new one. He offered do it as a swap if I swing by his house and replace his water heater for him. Last but not least is where to mount the coil overs. Can't run them inboard of the frame rails because they would mount too far inboard. Mount them outside of the frame rails, and I might not get a 10" wheel in there. Currently have room for 13" of tire, and I'm hoping to get a tire in the 285 to 300 range on a 9 or 10" rim. Might have to do some more cutting. If I make new frame rails higher up, that will make room for the coilovers, and allow the use of straight upper control arms. By this weekend, I should know if this has been a waste of time or be able to start fabricating everything.

TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
OK, jumped the gun. Calipers won't bolt on. Brembo, in their infinite wisdom, came up with a caliper mounting bolt spacing all to theirselves. Its 4.7" or 120mm. Going to have to make a bracket... but there is very little room for a bracket because a bracket will push the caliper closer to the wheel. Pretty sure it will still work, but I'll need 3.5" mount calipers, and a very shallow brake hat.

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TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
Not much progress once Summer kicked in, but back at it now. Finished a Ford 8.8 rear end for it. Had to abandon the idea of adapting the Camaro independent rear end. Everything was just too oversized. Would have had to run 18" wheels to fit around the hub carriers. For now the Ford Stick axle will work, but I'm on the look out for a donor Thunderbird Supercoupe. Apparently thats what the Cobra kit cars all run. Need to get the rear end under the car and measure for a driveshaft. Once thats done, I can tear the car apart again and start final bodywork. Here's a picture of the rear end with the brakes installed. Thanks Glen for the sweet brackets to mount the calipers. Perfect fit first try. I guessed right on the brake hat offset. Also finally won a Corvette Z06 cold air intake on Ebay. New these are $493, and I wasn't about to pay that. Picked this 5,000 mile used one for less than half of that. Should fit like a glove up and over radiator and nestle down behind bumper. Its bigger than it looks in the auction pics. I'll try and mount it up over the weekend and take a picture of it installed.


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TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
Sort of fits. Need to remove cross bar I installed behind bumper, and then drop the rad about an inch. The snorkel on the CAI is just way bigger than I thought it was going to be. Should fit better once the new intake is installed. The new intake has a larger throttle body that points down at a slight angle instead of coming straight out. That downward angle will allow the snorkel to angle down as well. Once I get that done, I can remake the cross bar in a manner that doesn't interfere with that massive k&N filter.


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sbs Avatar
sbs Steve S
Are you familiar with the corvette C4 stock airbox? It's flatter than what you have which might be easier to work with. They should be pretty cheap.

This is the LT1 version. I think earlier C4s have something similar but not identical. The cutout in the lid here is aftermarket or modified stock.


TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
Smaller would be easier to fit, but as the LS engines got larger and much more powerful than the C4, the fresh air systems got larger as well. Pretty sure the stock C4 system is going to be restrictive trying to feed an LS3 making over 500hp. I'll unbolt the crossbar I made and space down the rad with some aluminum blocks. Pretty sure I can make it fit. My only concern is cooling. One of my fall backs was to install a larger radiator if needed. This CAI will prevent a taller radiator. Current rad is 26X16. With some creative cutting and boxing of the frame rails, I could go 30-31" wide. Before the CAI I could have easily fit a 19" tall rad. If need be, I could always sell the CAI and fabricate something out of sheet metal, and then just mount a filter up front.

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tr7v8mike Avatar
tr7v8mike Gold Member Michael Booth
SYDNEY, NSW, Australia   AUS
What about an oil cooler mounted to the side of the radiator and/or an air scoop mounted on the nose just up above the air intake. The car isn't about aesthetics but bhp, after all.

TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
The engine originally was installed with an oil to water cooler mounted down by the oil pan. I needed to remove it for header clearance. From everything I have read about them, they are a constant source of problems. Most of the hypo Camaro guys just eliminate them. Instead of just installing block off plates where it attached to the engine, I installed block offs with tappings. If needed I can run braided hoses from those block offs to a remote oil cooler. I need to run a remote tranny cooler somewhere, so I can run the oil cooler in the same place. There is 3" of room above the frame rails and beside the rad tanks on each side. I was leaving that space open for now to run cooler lines so I could put an tranny cooler on the right and an oil cooler on the left under the headlight pods. No real fabrication needed there, so it can wait until after the car is painted. The rad I installed has worked well in TR8s making 350hp and its the same one Will is using in his 400 plus hp TR8. It might work at 500, it might not.

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tr7v8mike Avatar
tr7v8mike Gold Member Michael Booth
SYDNEY, NSW, Australia   AUS
I installed my oil cooler to the right of the rad and slightly higher (will send pics tomorrow). Had to cut a bit of panel out. I don't have much experience with it yet, so it might turn out to be a bucket of spiders.
Just finished installing a 26x19 rad which just fit with some mods to the bottom bracket.
What about an air scoop in the nose which could marry with the CAI?

parrisw William P
Victoria, BC, Canada   CAN
Todd. Pretty sure I read somewhere that that rad, (the one I'm using) is rated to 400hp? Not sure. It seems to work fine with mine at 400+hp. Hottest temps are 214, but fan has no issue bringing it down to 195.

sbs Avatar
sbs Steve S
In reply to # 1487799 by TR8todd Smaller would be easier to fit, but as the LS engines got larger and much more powerful than the C4, the fresh air systems got larger as well. Pretty sure the stock C4 system is going to be restrictive trying to feed an LS3 making over 500hp.

640 HP 540ci C4:



650 HP 415 ci C4:



Both by Lingenfelter, whose customers wouldn't blink at paying another $1000 for an intake if it gave another 10 HP.

I realize that you're more willing to re-engineer the entire car to optimize performance than most Lingenfelter customers would be, but I had to correct the slur on C4 HP and displacement smiling smiley

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