TRExp

TR7 & TR8 Forum

Towing a TR7

Moss Motors
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor

FrankieD Frank D'Angelo
King George, Virginia, USA   USA
Vance,

I actually had a casual conversation with a guy who is not a Triumph guy, but is a pretty good car mechanic, and also mentioned a similar situation you described. Between the both of you, I'm hopeful I wont have a transmission replacement on my hands. I'm still away on business but am now less anxious, and looking forward to get back home to check and drain oil . Fingers crossed!

regards,
Frank

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
navydiver Rob Cornick
san diego, california, USA   USA
1975 Triumph TR7 "The Pumpkin"
1977 Triumph TR7
1978 Triumph TR8
1980 Triumph TR7 "The Plum"    & more
given that this transmission was fitted in various other leyland products of the time (SD1, Sherpa van, Landcover) and I'm not aware of any restrictions on towing those vehicles, have we all been perpetuating a myth for many decades? It only seems to be the later owners manual for the 7 that talks about removing the prop shaft and that is for an automatic, the TR8 manual says nothing about removing the propshaft. Where did the myth spring from? is there a service bulletin? Were BL just being uber cautious? It would be good to finally put this one to rest as it may be causing a lot of unnecessary angst and work to wedge owners.



1975 TR7 FHC Ca Spec ACL 4spd
1976 TR7 FHC Ca Spec 4 spd (Temp add)
1977 TR7 FHC ACW 5Spd
1978 TR8 DHC ACT FI development car 5 Spd
1980 TR7 DHC FI Spider 5spd
1980 TR7 DHC FI Spider 5Spd
1980 TR7 DHC FI 5spd
1980 TR7 DHC FI 5 spd
1981 TR7 DHC FI 5 spd

lgray001 Avatar
lgray001 Gold Member Larry Gray
Lexington, VA, USA   USA
1976 Triumph TR7 "POS-2"
1979 Triumph TR7 "The Money Pit"
The early L77 5-speed transmission had an oil pump with a phenolic pump gear that was susceptible to wear and failure. The oil pump lubricates the innards. It is manipulated by the main shaft and when towed the driveshaft continues to turn the main shaft.

I've heard that the later L77s have a metallic pump gear and are OK to tow, but the earlier ones are not.

I rebuilt my 1976 transmission and replaced the phenolic gear with the metallic one. I don't know where the cross-over occurred.

.


Member Services:
A Small Business serving the aviation community with avionics knowledge.
Darth V8R Avatar
Darth V8R Vance Navarrette
Beaverton, Oregon, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
In reply to # 1474785 by navydiver given that this transmission was fitted in various other leyland products of the time (SD1, Sherpa van, Landcover) and I'm not aware of any restrictions on towing those vehicles, have we all been perpetuating a myth for many decades? It only seems to be the later owners manual for the 7 that talks about removing the prop shaft and that is for an automatic, the TR8 manual says nothing about removing the propshaft. Where did the myth spring from? is there a service bulletin? Were BL just being uber cautious? It would be good to finally put this one to rest as it may be causing a lot of unnecessary angst and work to wedge owners.

I don't know if BL was being overly cautious. There are Triumph technical service bulletins warning TR7 and TR8 drivers that towing the car for anything other than short distances (less than 10 miles, IIRC) requires disconnecting the drive shaft.

The oil pump is inoperative when the car is in neutral with the engine off, but the gears are turning while being towed. Apparently the oil pump is driven by the input shaft on the transmission, and so when the car is being towed the only lubrication you get is splash lubrication. I don't know why this is bad, considering that is the only kind of lubrication Triumph transmissions ever got prior to the five speed, but BL thought it was a problem. It might be that with the nose of the car in an elevated position, all the oil ends up in the tail housing where it can't lubricate much of anything. But that is speculation on my part.

Still, it seems funny, as there is no load being placed on the gears during towing.

Vance



1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, navy blue interior
Bare metal respray, Crower cam, raised compression
ported heads, modified Zenith carbs, 0.060" overbore

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
diver Richard Crothers
NorthEast, Maryland, USA   USA
A idea for towing TR7. Remove drive shaft, put a pug in end of trans or drain oil from same. Next, get a tow set-up like used when pulling the toad behind RV all wheels down. Don't forget unlock steering wheel, hook up lites.

Diver

navydiver Rob Cornick
san diego, california, USA   USA
1975 Triumph TR7 "The Pumpkin"
1977 Triumph TR7
1978 Triumph TR8
1980 Triumph TR7 "The Plum"    & more
if you're thinking of doing it that way you really need to remove the front bumper and fix the 'A" frame to the bumper mounts, the tow points under the car are too low to get any reasonable clearance to the towing vehicle.



1975 TR7 FHC Ca Spec ACL 4spd
1976 TR7 FHC Ca Spec 4 spd (Temp add)
1977 TR7 FHC ACW 5Spd
1978 TR8 DHC ACT FI development car 5 Spd
1980 TR7 DHC FI Spider 5spd
1980 TR7 DHC FI Spider 5Spd
1980 TR7 DHC FI 5spd
1980 TR7 DHC FI 5 spd
1981 TR7 DHC FI 5 spd

kansanbrit Avatar
kansanbrit Phil H
Bonner Springs, Kansas, USA   USA
1952 MG D-Type Midget
1964 Morris Mini-Minor
1980 Triumph TR8
1980 Triumph TR8 "TR8 Holley"    & more
Don't panic, it will be fine.

Flyguy55 Dick Roberts
blanco, NM, USA   USA
I just towed My 1980 TR8 on a dolly from Abq NM to the Phx area last week with out disconnecting the drive shift . I stopped every 100 MI and ran the engine for a few min to splash the oil around in the tranny . no problems .
I used to tow a Suzuki Side Kick behind a motorhome and needed to do that about every 300 mi.
Im not recommending it , but it worked for me

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
carltr7 Avatar
carltr7 carl g
halifax, ns, Canada   CAN
It takes like 5 mins with 2 half-inch spanners to disconnect the drive shaft from the diff.
Just remember to mark how it was connected to the right bolts go back.
Also once the shaft is out of the box you may see some oil coming out - although I run a T5 so yours may be different.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

To add your reply, or post your own questions

Members Sign In   or   Create an Account

Registration is FREE and takes less than a minute!


Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster