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TR5 & TR250 Forum

Re-attaching the Door Pull

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Brian Oklahoma Brian Plotkin
Edmond, 73012, USA   USA
1968 Triumph TR250 "Kevin"
The drivers side door pull (the pad at the top of the door) isn't stuck on to the door very well. When I bought this car, it came that way. It seems to be getting worse. I tried injecting some JB Weld two part adhesive into the gap between the door and the pad and clamping the pad in place with a band clamp. That didn't hold. What is the best way to attach the door handle pad to the door?

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sagreenwoo Stuart Greenwood
San Diego, California, USA   USA
Quite frankly I wouldn't even try unless you are stickler for originality I suggest that you install the door pulls used on the TR4/4A, part number 650306 with the screws, part number 510799 ( 2 per pull). The holes to attach these pulls are already in the sheet metal of the door underneath the door cards but you will need to get some captive nuts to fit into these holes.
I did this mod on my TR250. They work fine and look good
Stuart Greenwood
68 TR250, 71 Spit MkIV
San Diego Ca

Brian Oklahoma Brian Plotkin
Edmond, 73012, USA   USA
1968 Triumph TR250 "Kevin"
Well - this is a concours car - at least it tries to be. So, I do try to stick with the original design as much as possible. Besides, I really like the door lip handles as long as they stay attached to the doors.

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StagByTriumph Glenn Merrell
Lafayette, Colorado, USA   USA
Stuart,
where is your Stag?



Glenn Merrell, a.k.a. StagByTriumph / Garage
1968 TRG TR250; 1973 Mimosa Triumph Stag; 2000 XJ8; 2001 XJ8
"The BEST Trophies are: Miles on the Odometer; Stone Chips in the paint; Dead Bugs on the Windscreen (and the occasional smell of manure!)" an S by T Original quote!

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StagByTriumph Glenn Merrell
Lafayette, Colorado, USA   USA
Brian,

Epoxy does not do it and if the foam is not new, you need new crash pads. You need a 3M HD exterior automotive adhesive - used in a well ventilated area.

To properly mount the Crash Pad door pulls, you really need to take the door apart - inner/outer waist seals off, window out, and for best access, window lift mechanism out.

If you want to remain OE Stock with the vinyl crash pad style door pulls, there are three very critical attachment points;

1. First, clean the door surfaces receiving any of the Crash Pad vinyl completely with alcohol. Then test fit your door pull and mark the forward and rear edges and also top to bottom locations.
1.a. On the Crash Pad Door Pull, the inner Door Waist connection vinyl needs to hook up under (between the door and the Waist seal) the inner waist seal door steel edge, so it must be heated and bent under the top door inside the window edge. If you use the correct #M HD Adhesive, it will soften the vinyl enough to bend around the edge, but I prefer heat and leather gloves. When it is properly bent and cooled, it is then attached with a 3M HD Exterior Adhesive.
1.b.The inner Door Waist Seal (weather fuzzy strip) is then placed over the vinyl and attached with clips the correct style clips (with the little notch). You need to make a tool to get the clips in place;
2. the next part - inside of the foam Crash Pad is then glued with 3M HD adhesive over the top of the door to the painted door section above and under the door card mounting points, and then
3. the lower vinyl of the Crash Pad door pull is glued under the door card top. Punch holes through the vinyl for the door card attaching clips.

Make up some sort of boards wrapped in clean rags/towels to press against the length of the crash pads and hold them in place for 24 hours for everything to set.

Cheers!



Glenn Merrell, a.k.a. StagByTriumph / Garage
1968 TRG TR250; 1973 Mimosa Triumph Stag; 2000 XJ8; 2001 XJ8
"The BEST Trophies are: Miles on the Odometer; Stone Chips in the paint; Dead Bugs on the Windscreen (and the occasional smell of manure!)" an S by T Original quote!

Brian Oklahoma Brian Plotkin
Edmond, 73012, USA   USA
1968 Triumph TR250 "Kevin"
Actually, I didn't need new foam. The foam was in good shape. Here is what I did:

1) Peel off the the entire crash pad door pull. Mine came off easily. I ended up doing both sides (after noticing my passenger side was also coming loose.
2) Remove the door panel. This is not required, but it protects the door panel from the adhesive solvent and the glue.
3) Remove the old adhesive. This is the hard part. I used alcohol and acetone. Neither worked well. Then I used Goof Off. Goof Off worked eventually.
4) Use 220 grit sandpaper on a sanding block to (dare I say it) scratch the paint under where the crash pad door pull will be. Make sure you don't scratch beyond where the crash pad will be. You could tape this off, but I didn't. You don't need to go to the edge. You don't want to scratch all the way through the paint. Just abrade the paint, giving the adhesive something to grip on to.
5) Apply an adhesive made to secure foam to metal. I did some research on the Internet and found a product called Goop. It is a contact adhesive that works for this type of application. I applied it to both surfaces, waited a couple of minutes (per the instructions on the tube) and set the pad in place.
6) Using a plastic spatula, I inserted the crash pad flap into the slot by the window.
7) I wrapped a piece of cardboard I had around the top of the door and clamped the pad down with a band clamp.
8) I let it cure, then put the door panel back on.

Its been a couple of weeks and it seems to be holding very solidly. It came out looking clean.

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