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TR5 & TR250 Forum

Wiper Motor

Moss Motors
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Aphyle2012 Avatar
Aphyle2012 Silver Member Eric Pyle
Shenandoah Valley, VA, USA   USA
10-Ohm, 50 Watt. You've reminded me to pull the pictures off of my phone and provide a write-up.

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TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
Thanks, Eric. Since it seems our long drought is over, I may actually have some use for wipers in the future, and the stock speed is rather slow.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

Aphyle2012 Avatar
Aphyle2012 Silver Member Eric Pyle
Shenandoah Valley, VA, USA   USA
Hey Randall,

So I applied the basic ideas and descriptions in the link that you shared with me on the TR4/TR4A link:

http://tr4a.weebly.com/uploads/2/1/9/8/21980360/two-speed.pdf

I've assembled some crude pics to show how it was done. PM me an email and I will send a little video of the motor running.

Step 1: Disassemble the motor, and clean every thing. On the field assembly, there are two terminals, labeled on the case as "1" and "2." Terminal 1 (left) has two wires soldered to the tab. One of these is the red wire for the parking assembly, while the other is the insulated end of the field coil wire. The right tab, "2," has soldered to it the thin end of the field coil wire.

Step 2. Do nothing to terminal 2. Ever. Except make sure things are clear. For terminal 1, desolder both wires from terminal 1's tab. Solder to the insulated end of the field coil wire a length of R/LG (red/light green) wire. This becomes the "slow" wire. Use heat shrink to cover the connection.

Step 3. Re-solder the red wire back onto the terminal one tab and orient it toward the bottom (really the top) of the field.

Step 4. Reassemble the motor assembly, feeding the red wire through the hole in the top and the R/LG wire through the bottom of the case, using the terminal 1 hole. I need to come up with a better way of accommodating this wire, but for now it works.

Step 5. Connect the green wire (+12V) to terminal 2, and the N/LG (brown/light green) wire to terminal 1. Put a 10-Ohm 50W resistor in parallel between the N/LG (fast) and R/LG (slow wire). Attach the N/LG wire to the "F" terminal on the switch and the R/LG wire to the "S" terminal on the switch. Connect the center terminal on the switch to ground, or -12V. If you are testing the parking mechanism, the "E" terminal on the motor is connected to ground, as well.

So it works so far, and nothing that I have done cannot be reversed. All works well, including the parking mechanism. And I've done this to two motors now, and both check out. Yeah! Thanks for your earlier help!

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Attachments:
Step 1 field removed.jpeg    32.6 KB
Step 1 field removed.jpeg

Step 2 de-soldered.jpeg    29.6 KB
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Step 3 wires resoldered.jpeg    28.7 KB
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Step 4 cover in place.jpeg    29.4 KB
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Step 5 resistor in place.jpeg    34.2 KB
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Fictioneer Avatar
Fictioneer Doug Hirt
Colorado Springs, CO, USA   USA
Eric,

This is exactly the info I've been looking for. Thanks.

Doug



"Mr. Filby, do you think he'll ever return?"
"One cannot choose but wonder. You see . . . he has all the time in the world!"

Aphyle2012 Avatar
Aphyle2012 Silver Member Eric Pyle
Shenandoah Valley, VA, USA   USA
Doug,

Glad you like it. Let me know if it works for you, too. Since the four wires to the motor (G, B, N/LG, R/LG) are already in place in the loom, it was my intention to mount the resistor out of sight under the dash, putting it in parallel before the wires are connected to the switch. Again, everything is reversible if needed, and no need to damage the wiring harness.

azmark Mark P
Phoenix, Arizona, USA   USA
I solved the resistor problem by buying 26gauge Nichrome resistance wire and cutting it to a size (can't remember) to give me 10ohms. i then put the wire into 3/64" shrink wrap and wrapped the covered wire around the coil. This way i didn't have a resister outside the wiper body. Some of the original wiper motors had a coated resistance wire wrapped around the windings to create the 2 speeds. you do have to rewire the switch to get the 2 speeds to work.

Aphyle2012 Avatar
Aphyle2012 Silver Member Eric Pyle
Shenandoah Valley, VA, USA   USA
Thanks for sharing!

So where did you get your wire? I had found a few sources, but was unsure as to gauge, especially as it could get a bit hot - hence your extra insulation. This is how the factory did it, eh? In any event, the original Clear Hooters switch with three terminals does not require a rewire. I have an old three terminal one, and a newer 4 terminal switch. The latter requires rewiring. I was able to disassemble, clean, and reassemble the original switch, and it worked just fine. When switched to the slow mode, both outer terminals are engaged.

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