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Brake overheating

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Brake overheating
#1
  This topic is about my 1976 Triumph Stag
Dave1954 Dave Carpenter
Newport, Risca, UK   GBR
Hi my back brakes brrakes are getting very hot, new shoes, with the car rear wheels off floor the Hand brake works as it should,wheels release nicely when hand brake realised. The only theory I can come up with the diff is a bit noisy, could it be a bearing in the diff is generating heat right through, any thoughts would be appreciated . All the best. Dave

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tkrich Avatar
tkrich Tim Richardson
Vancouver, Washington, USA   USA
1971 Triumph Stag "Saffron"
1971 Triumph Stag "Saffron"
The first thing that I would do is to check the fluid in the diff. If it is dry or really low, you are running on borrowed time, but I don't see how this would cause your brakes to overheat.

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
FWIW, when I had that problem on my TR3, it proved to be that the soft brake line had failed internally. No leaks, but a flap of material had broken away inside and was acting as a check valve to hold pressure in the rear brakes. It would slowly leak past, so no drag when checking the next day, but at one point the brakes were literally smoking.

On Stag #2, the front brakes overheated because the MC had malfunctioned and was not opening the passage back to the reservoir. The brakes worked fairly normally until they were used in heavy traffic and got warm, then the fluid expanded a bit and held them partially applied. When my co-pilot woke me up and I climbed out, my first thought was that the engine was on fire! The glow from the red hot rotors was literally shining off the (wet) pavement.

So I would be looking for anything that might interfere with fluid moving back into the reservoir. It seems unlikely that both hoses would fail at the same time (the TR3 only has one hose for both brakes on the solid rear axle), but maybe??

Of course, I assume you realize that it's normal for brakes to get hot when they are used; and what you are seeing is hotter than normal.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

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Stagman 73 Avatar
Stagman 73 Colin M
Epping, NH, USA   USA
I would start with the flex lines attached to the trailing arms. They will swell internally and while they will allow pressure to be applied, the return springs aren't strong enough to overcome the pressure to the wheel cylinder when the brake pedal is released.

Dave1954 Dave Carpenter
Newport, Risca, UK   GBR
Hi mate thanks for reply, I've only just got around to having a go at this job, as I said when jacked up all seems to be fine, (not binding when realising handbrake ) just had car put on rolling for yearly m.o.t. Braking pressures were all good, drums still bloody scalding after 2 mile run.when I bought the car it had just had new shoes fitted, I'm not sure if the adjusters are fitted correct way around, I googled it and 2 pictures shoes diffent way around any idea which is correct. Pictures attached. Ps when I looked at the adjusters a while ago I can't recall seeing springs holding them together. Cheers. Dave


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Stagman 73 Avatar
Stagman 73 Colin M
Epping, NH, USA   USA
I read somewhere that the beak shaped portion of the adjuster should be fitted with the beaky part pointing forwards. That's how I fitted my new ones last summer. I've added a picture but it's a bit dark


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