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Rear spring disassembly question

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Dadsturn Avatar
Dadsturn Platinum Member Ed M
Cicero, New York, USA   USA
Hi. I want to take the rear leaf spring assembly apart to clean it up and repaint. I took the 4 bolt and spacers off but when I try to take off the bolt at the center of the top the whole thing just spins. The nut is rusted solid to the pin. Outside of the usual frozen hardware fixes, is there a trick to how the spring is taken apart? If I grab the bottom of the pin with a vice grip I will damage the end of the pin. It looks like a tolerance fit into the differential so I an sure this is not a good idea. I'm afraid I will do something that will cause undue harm to the spring. Until I understand how this thing comes apart I am doing nothing. Don't need damage a perfectly good spring out of stupidity. Any advice is appreciated.



1964 Herald 1200 Convertible
1966 Chevy Bel Air
Got it covered. A Land Yacht and a Dingy!

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Herald948 Avatar
Herald948 Andrew Mace
East Nassau, upstate NY, USA   USA
By "four bolts" do you mean those that hold the spring to the top of the differential? If so, sounds as if someone put a later Spitfire "swing spring" on. I know little about those, but a search of the Spitfire / GT6 forum here should yield a wealth of information about those springs.



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Dadsturn Avatar
Dadsturn Platinum Member Ed M
Cicero, New York, USA   USA
Hi Andy. I was unclear in my post. The 4 bolts and sleeves I refer to are for the U shaped pieces that keep the springs from fanning out.

It is the nut and pin(?) that go thru all the leafs at the center and stick below about 3/4". The nut is frozen and the whole thing just spins. I don't want to get too aggressive unless it is a last resort.



1964 Herald 1200 Convertible
1966 Chevy Bel Air
Got it covered. A Land Yacht and a Dingy!

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quikrx Ralph Hansen
Antioch, Illinois, USA   USA
1962 Triumph Herald 1200
1969 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "Gloria"
1987 Mazda RX-7 "Mistress"
2003 Toyota Celica GT-S "Natasha"    & more
ONLY WAY I HAVE BEEN ABLE TO SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM IS THE OLD VISE GRIPS - CLEAN AND SOAK THE NUT END FOR A few days, when you start to loosen the nut the leaves will slowly start to expand (relieve pressure) - I try to set the spring into a position where I can limit the release ( you don't want the nut to hit the last threads and then pop stripping the stud)- the center bolt end in the diff can be cleaned up, it's not really critical for fit, the mounting studs on top of diff will keep it from moving as long as the bolt isn't totally destroyed - reassembly can be a little fun trying to get the nut back on, usually a floor jack on top with all between something strong, doesn't need much but a little - call me if you like

Ralph

ps - I'm not screaming at the start, just not awake and too lazy to retype

Dadsturn Avatar
Dadsturn Platinum Member Ed M
Cicero, New York, USA   USA
Thanks Ralph. If anyone would have been screaming it would have been me if the nut would have flown off to who know where (or worse). I think I'll take this disassembly slowly. Would two C clamps, one on each side of the pin, keep the pressure off the nut as it comes off? Should I put the 4 U strap bolts on before I attempt the nut removal?



1964 Herald 1200 Convertible
1966 Chevy Bel Air
Got it covered. A Land Yacht and a Dingy!

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