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LED Headlamp

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LED Headlamp
#1
  This topic is about my 1974 Triumph TR6
erictr6 Avatar
erictr6 eric l
Denver, NC, USA   USA
I'm thinking about upgrading the head lamps in my 74 TR6 to halogens. Is the install plug and play or is upgrading wiring or fuses or something else needed.
Wouldn't mind doing this for my 81 TR8 as well.

Thanks



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-02-11 03:19 PM by erictr6.

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poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
LED or halogens ?

erictr6 Avatar
erictr6 eric l
Denver, NC, USA   USA
Originally posted with LED then edited to halogens. Did find post 1483204 by "Darth"describing the halogens are plug and play. Not sure about LED's except they may require upgrading the wiring.Is that correct?

These guys have a good price on Lucas Halogens if anyone is interested.

http://jollyrogersmotors.com/store/p/423-Lucas-H4-Headlamp-Pair-New.html

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poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
You'll be able to find LED headlights that plug right into the existing sockets...you will not need upgrading the wiring....but the cost per lamp is pretty high, to say the least.
You can get halogen sealed beams for about 1/10 of LED or you can get a reflector housing and a separate Halogen H4 bulb that plugs right into your sockets...shop around, prices vary.
I think it would be a good idea to install relays and take the load stress off of the dash mounted headlight switch..

Atl TR6 Avatar
Atl TR6 Bruce W
Braselton, GA, USA   USA
Installed a set of those with replaceable halogen bulbs.

I also utilized the pilot holes in these lamps and installed 20w halogen pilot bulbs on a separate circuit that i use in the daytime as DRLs
as you will see in pic, I had to bend bulb holder connectors down to fit in TR6
I also purchased a new connector for pigtail wire so I could attach ground wire to it from pilot lamp



Bruce
1974 base TR6 Emerald Green "Emmy"
(with J-O/D added)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-02-11 08:25 PM by Atl TR6.


Attachments:
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100_4171.jpg

trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
My understanding of the H4 is the heat at the plug connection, melts the plastic. Lots of places sale the ceramic end for the H4 bulb that plugs into your existing wires and is only about 6 inches long. The better solution is the upgraded harness with relays. Cost around $20 for both sides including the relays.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
LED draw a lot less power (and generate less heat), so no relays needed. They are also (usually) insensitive to supply voltage (there is effectively a tiny switching power supply that transforms ~12v to whatever the LEDs need).

But I'm not real happy with the light pattern that mine generate (on my TR3); might go back to H4 now that I've got an alternator to power them. The most annoying (to me) is that low beam lights the ground in front of the car very well; but high beam does the same thing! All that reflected light interferes with night vision.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

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Peter-K Peter K
Central, ME, USA   USA
LEDs headlights really need a reflector that is designed for LEDs. H4s are designed for H4 reflectors and work well. Modern cars with LED headlights have light housings designed for the pattern of the LED bulb. To take advantage of the LED light, the reflectors are most important to proper lighting. So they'll work but not as well as you'd expect.

Here's a comparison between my tractor halogen (with the end of the bulb capped) and the replacement LED as an example.




Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-02-12 08:37 AM by Peter-K.

Darth V8R Avatar
Darth V8R Vance Navarrette
Beaverton, OR, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
In reply to # 1512817 by erictr6 I'm thinking about upgrading the head lamps in my 74 TR6 to halogens. Is the install plug and play or is upgrading wiring or fuses or something else needed.
Wouldn't mind doing this for my 81 TR8 as well.

Thanks

As long as you do not increase the wattage of the halogens, they are plug and play. 40% more light with no additional power draw over a sealed beam head lamp. If you go with halogen sealed beam replacements, they are $6-$7 each at your FLAPS. I went with Lucas H4 halogens, and I think they were something like $60 for a pair. But then I had to have "LUCAS" stamped on the lens. Can you spell 'anal-retentive' boys and girls?

If you decide to NOT go the rice boy route (100w blue tinted halogens, illegal in most states) you need not change a thing. I think 60W low beam, 65W high beams are the legal limit.

If you go LEDs, they draw less current than the OEM sealed beams as they are more efficient so once again, they are plug and play.

Lots of people install relays to keep the load on the dash switch to a minimum, although I never had a problem in 16 years. Perhaps I was lucky.

Vance



1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, navy blue interior
Bare metal respray, Crower cam, raised compression
ported heads, modified Zenith carbs, 0.060" overbore

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erictr6 Avatar
erictr6 eric l
Denver, NC, USA   USA
Thanks for the info. I'll order Hella Halgens for the 8 cause I have Hella fog lights. Do you think the relay is warranted for a 74 TR6?
Thanks

poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
Head light relays make sense to me...as well as for auxiliary lighting
For the Cibie halogen headlights I have 2 relays and one circuit breaker... one for the high beams and one for the low beams...

For my Airport 35's below the bumper...just one relay. It's in another location.


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Heaadlight relay 002.JPG

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
In reply to # 1513201 by poolboy Head light relays make sense to me..
I totally agree, as long as you're running halogen or tungsten bulbs. Not just the factory wiring but also the factory switches all drop the voltage just a little bit; and less voltage at the bulb means less light output. The drop isn't enough to burn anything up (with close to standard wattage bulbs), but you still lose some light.

IMO the stock switches are also somewhat marginal; and will last longer if they don't have to switch 10 amps. (The switches on my Stag are literally thermoplastic, they melt if they get hot. I assume TR6 is the same.) And relays are so cheap; not to mention the hassle (and danger) of having the lights potentially go out when driving at speed at night.

But after a bad experience some years ago, where a fuse failed while I was driving down a mountain, 75+ mph, about midnight, tired, with my daughter in the car ... I opted for a more complicated scheme where I used a separate circuit breaker for each side of the car. That way, if a breaker does pop, only one light goes out, not both of them. That meant I needed 4 relays (but again, relays are cheap, parts for the whole project were probably under $20). And I found a place where they are totally hidden and yet reasonably easy to install and service (if it ever becomes necessary).



PS, the fuse failure was eventually traced to invisible corrosion on the contacts in the fuse holder. Couldn't see anything wrong, but they were getting warm. Drive long enough with headlights on, and the heat would melt the solder in the end of the glass fuse. After the fuse failed again a few months later, I ran a piece of Scotch-brite pad through a few times, put in yet another new fuse, problem solved.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

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