TRExp

TR6 Tech Forum

Clutch will not engage with good clutch pressure - TR6rsted

Moss Motors
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor

Feick2 Carl F
Madison, MS, USA   USA
Frust

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, BC, Canada   CAN
Just to clarify: car is in gear, foot is off the clutch, but drive is not transmitted (clutch slips) dispite seemingly good pressure supplied from the pressure plate??

Feick2 Carl F
Madison, MS, USA   USA
Frustrated - clutch will not engage -TR6

I just replaced the clutch master cylinder and slave and bled the system repeatedly and now have good clutch pedal pressure but with the engine running I still can’t put the car in gear. The clutch is not engaging. What am I doing wrong.
I had the slave rod on the lowest hole of the “throw out” lever. I assume that would push the rod into the slave the furthered?
Or does the top hole (level) push the rod rod in the furthered?

What else should I do/try

Help is greatly appreciated

Carl

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
Feick2 Carl F
Madison, MS, USA   USA
Car is not in gear. With engine on it will not go into gesr

dicta dick Taylor
Downey, Callifornia, USA   USA
In reply to # 1511463 by Feick2 Frustrated - clutch will not engage -TR6

I just replaced the clutch master cylinder and slave and bled the system repeatedly and now have good clutch pedal pressure but with the engine running I still can’t put the car in gear. The clutch is not engaging. What am I doing wrong.
I had the slave rod on the lowest hole of the “throw out” lever. I assume that would push the rod into the slave the furthered?
Or does the top hole (level) push the rod rod in the furthered?

What else should I do/try

Help is greatly appreciated

Carl


Carl --- It's the top of the three holes that gives the longest throw of the clutch release mechanism. This is usually the last thing to try when there are other issues involved in clutch disengagement. Without listing them all, see what they are by going to the buckeyetriumph web site. Look under "Clutches".

Dick

Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, BC, Canada   CAN
So your clutch is not Disengaging.

As dick says, the upper hole gives the most travel.

You might first try the middle hole.

Feick2 Carl F
Madison, MS, USA   USA
I have tried the middle hole twice. If I understand you both the top hole should push the clutch release lever the furtherest to the rear and therefore releasing the bearing more to allow the gear engagement. I purchased both the master cylinder and the slave fron victoria British as a kit and although both the VB slave and the one that was on the car looked the same and the rod looked the same I wonder if the rod or the slave are actually a bit shorter?


Thanks for all the advise -Carl

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
It shouldn't matter, as there should be a spring inside that holds the piston out against the pushrod & lever. Only problem is if it comes out far enough to leak.

Here's a link to the Buckeye article http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchHydraulics/Clutch_Hydraulics.htm
Scroll to the bottom for the "Insufficient Pedal" section. If those steps don't do it for you, check your crankshaft end float. Should be no more than .008".

And if still no joy, click on the link at the bottom of the above article for the "Clutch Operating Shaft Overhaul (and that nasty pin)" article.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, BC, Canada   CAN
Try the top hole.

But:

1) TR6 clutches tend to be problematic (a search will show that)

2) Victoria British (in my experiance) it not a place to buy mechanical components from, if you require them to fit, work or give long service life)

Sorry to say #2 compounds problem #1

That said, try bleeding once more. Perhaps un-bolt the slave and bleed with the bleed nipple fully up.

Make sure you can get a full stroke from your clutch pedal. ie. There is a little slack when the pedal is not pressed and that the pedal can be pressed FULLY to the floor.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
Feick2 Carl F
Madison, MS, USA   USA
I will try bleeding again and shifting the slave rod to the top hole. I am curious why several companies offer an adjustable slave rod?

Thanks

poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
Middle hole..and make sure the slave cylinder and bracket are mounted exactly as in this photo.
If you still have no working clutch with what was described, we'll have to dig a little deeper.


Attachments:
SlaveCylinder.jpg    13.1 KB
SlaveCylinder.jpg

South San Frncisco, CA, USA   USA
broken bolt clutch shaft to fork?
w

dicta dick Taylor
Downey, Callifornia, USA   USA
In reply to # 1511499 by Feick2 I will try bleeding again and shifting the slave rod to the top hole. I am curious why several companies offer an adjustable slave rod?

Thanks

Older TRs needed to have periodic clutch adjustments. With the TR6 this adjustment became automatic via the light spring inside the SC, making manual adjustments no longer necessary (or desired). Parts sellers will still peddle these 'adjustable' pushrods to the unknowing.

Again, I know it's a lot of reading, but it can save you a ton of of time and $$ in unnecessary work if you plan on finding the cause and cure, by reading the buckeyetriumph site on "CLUTCHES". You will find your answer there 95% of the time. The other 5% has to do with crankshaft thrust washers, not covered here.

Dick

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
In reply to # 1511499 by Feick2 I will try bleeding again and shifting the slave rod to the top hole. I am curious why several companies offer an adjustable slave rod?

Thanks
There is another reason IMO. When the system is just barely on the edge (&or the thrust washer is worn), doing a manual adjustment can help just a little bit. And sometimes that is all you need to get by for another season or two.

With the adjustable pushrod, you can minimize the extra fluid in the slave. Even DOT3 compresses very slightly under pressure, so having less of it to compress forces the piston to move just a bit farther.

You can also keep the crankshaft forced forward against the worn washer, so it doesn't float around and knock the slave piston into the cylinder.

And keep just a bit more pressure on the TOB, so the diaphragm is slightly compressed and it takes less travel to disengage the clutch.

None of these are "good things" IMO, but sometimes a quick fix is better than a good fix, even if the quick fix causes more work in the long run.

Just for example, Stag #1 was getting so I couldn't mash the clutch pedal quite far enough to the floor. I initially thought it was probably the dread broken taper pin, but didn't want to quit driving the car while I sourced an OD gearbox. So I temporarily remounted the slave with some big nuts between the flange and bracket. It didn't help much, but just barely enough to keep it on the road.

After the rebuilt gearbox didn't fix it, I found the real problem: wear at the clutch pedal pivot.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

Feick2 Carl F
Madison, MS, USA   USA
Everyone
I have been out of town traveling so I have not had time to work on my tr6. This morning I tried two things.
(The pedal is still very stiff therefore I assume that there are no air bubbles and slave is exactly like the photo that Ken D sent.)
(1] With the fork attached to the middle hole I measure a little less than 1/2 inch movement in the clutch release lever. I understand that I need to be able to move it slightly more than the 1/2 inch.
(2) I also tried the top hole with the same result (a little less than 1/2 inch movement)
Thank you all for your on-going assistance.

The clutch operation prior to me changing out the Clutch MC and the slave was working well other than a leak in the master requiring me to refill the reservoir frequently.

Help. Carl

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

To add your reply, or post your own questions




Registration is FREE and takes less than a minute!


Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster





Join The Club

Sign in to ask questions, share photos, and access all website features

Your Cars

1962 Triumph TR3A

Text Size

Larger Smaller
Reset Save

Sponsor Links