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Adjustable upper A-arms; 'anybody done or tried?

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A. Bradley Aaron Bradley
Erwin, TN, USA   USA
1969 Jaguar E-Type 2+2 "The Jag"
1975 Triumph TR6 "The TR"
'Just seeking some more and easier adjustability on the TR. Stock shim adjusting is about maxed out. Yeah the upper arms aren't symmetrical but they're shaped to clear the wheel. Speedway Motors catalog has some simple setups that may work but just wondering if anybody has done so before the cutting and tiging begins here.

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rjc157 Avatar
rjc157 ralph c
pearl river, NY, USA   USA
If you can weld Revington sells a upper fulcrum kit that allows total adjustment of the cambor

JimG Avatar
JimG Jim G
Aurora, CO, USA   USA
I know of a few TR's that have had heim joints welded in the upper arms but only on the non-adjustable, early tr4's. I run an IRS chassis on mine and I can get well beyond negative 3 degrees camber.
If you can't get enough camber you may have to lower your ride height which will certainly do it. You can either shorten up your spring spacers, go to longer bolts on the lower arms for more
shims or both. In my case I run right at 3" of ground clearance with QA-1 shocks and spaced my lower spring pan for more shock travel at the lowered ride height.
Before the QA-1's I could get 3 degrees negative without any mods by just pulling the spring spacers out but that cuts the shock travel way down so you have to shim the spring pan down.
Are you running the stock springs ? The lowered/uprated spring set will add camber right off. If you want to play with your suspension a bit the second photo is what I did in the rear.
I can get to within.1% of 50/50 crossweights with the adjustability of this set up.
jim g






In reply to # 1510755 by A. Bradley 'Just seeking some more and easier adjustability on the TR. Stock shim adjusting is about maxed out. Yeah the upper arms aren't symmetrical but they're shaped to clear the wheel. Speedway Motors catalog has some simple setups that may work but just wondering if anybody has done so before the cutting and tiging begins here.

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A. Bradley Aaron Bradley
Erwin, TN, USA   USA
1969 Jaguar E-Type 2+2 "The Jag"
1975 Triumph TR6 "The TR"
That’s some good looking go fast hardware goodies you’ve got there. You’ll have to tell me about how you fitted up all that nice QA 1 hardware.
I have the car lowered about 2 inches on every corner but still have not enough camber in the front. The outside edges of the tires get chewed off first. The rear is pretty much sorted out with the camber adjusters. In the front, one side is pretty much maxed out and the other is almost maxed out. Yeah the frames on these cars aren’t exactly rocksolid/straight. I’ve pondered on longer brackets but don’t really want to stress it much further. It gets hustled around some autocrosses throughout the season.

In reply to # 1511010 by JimG I know of a few TR's that have had heim joints welded in the upper arms but only on the non-adjustable, early tr4's. I run an IRS chassis on mine and I can get well beyond negative 3 degrees camber.
If you can't get enough camber you may have to lower your ride height which will certainly do it. You can either shorten up your spring spacers, go to longer bolts on the lower arms for more
shims or both. In my case I run right at 3" of ground clearance with QA-1 shocks and spaced my lower spring pan for more shock travel at the lowered ride height.
Before the QA-1's I could get 3 degrees negative without any mods by just pulling the spring spacers out but that cuts the shock travel way down so you have to shim the spring pan down.
Are you running the stock springs ? The lowered/uprated spring set will add camber right off. If you want to play with your suspension a bit the second photo is what I did in the rear.
I can get to within.1% of 50/50 crossweights with the adjustability of this set up.
jim g






In reply to # 1510755 by A. Bradley 'Just seeking some more and easier adjustability on the TR. Stock shim adjusting is about maxed out. Yeah the upper arms aren't symmetrical but they're shaped to clear the wheel. Speedway Motors catalog has some simple setups that may work but just wondering if anybody has done so before the cutting and tiging begins here.

JimG Avatar
JimG Jim G
Aurora, CO, USA   USA
How much camber do you have now and what kind of tires are you using? The shocks are sized for a Mustang 2.Those brakes are the Toyota brakes.
I have vented Willwoods now. I kept roasting rotors with the Toy brakes.
Do you have the lowered/uprated springs ? I'm assuming you still have the spring spacers in.
I believe it was BPNW that has their own spax adjustable shocks made for the lowered springs front and rear and their tube shock conversion brackets.

In this trim the car had 3.2 degrees negative on the front and just under 3 in the rear. I got that with the 1" lowered springs, spring spacers removed
and maximum shim pack in the front + Richard Good adjusters in the rear & no spacers.


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A. Bradley Aaron Bradley
Erwin, TN, USA   USA
1969 Jaguar E-Type 2+2 "The Jag"
1975 Triumph TR6 "The TR"
I like that racecar man!
There’s good positive camber in the rear but the front is still on the negative side (I forget exactly how many degrees). Kumho V720 tires, I love ‘em! I’m running the Toyota brakes also. They do pretty good.
Yeah the springs are the lowered performance versions. There’s a spacer in the left rear to counteract that ‘bachelor lean’.
Thanks for sharing that technical info. Looks like there’s some good shocks out there for these cars.
In reply to # 1511169 by JimG How much camber do you have now and what kind of tires are you using? The shocks are sized for a Mustang 2.Those brakes are the Toyota brakes.
I have vented Willwoods now. I kept roasting rotors with the Toy brakes.
Do you have the lowered/uprated springs ? I'm assuming you still have the spring spacers in.
I believe it was BPNW that has their own spax adjustable shocks made for the lowered springs front and rear and their tube shock conversion brackets.

In this trim the car had 3.2 degrees negative on the front and just under 3 in the rear. I got that with the 1" lowered springs, spring spacers removed
and maximum shim pack in the front + Richard Good adjusters in the rear & no spacers.


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