TRExp

TR6 Tech Forum

Electrical problem

Moss Motors
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor

Electrical problem
#1
  This topic is about my 1973 Triumph TR6
cal1973 Avatar
cal1973 John M
Glendora, CA, USA   USA
Hello Everyone,

I'm having an electrical problem with my 1973 Triumph TR6.
The Fuel gauge and Temperature gauge have stopped working along with the turn signals and stop lights.
Where do I start looking? The fuses look fine. I don't see any loose wires under the dash.
Any help will be appreciated.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
smaceng Avatar
smaceng Scott Macdonald
Martinez, CA, USA   USA
Hi John,
I know that electrical problems can seem almost impossible, but most of the time solving them is just one of elimination.
Couple of suggestions: Do you have a schematic? One is available at www.advanceautowire.com.
The book of all books on the electrical system for TR6s is by Dan Masters and it is available through all the usual sources.
Just a guess, but you may also find that the heater, and windshield wipers, and washer are also not working.
All of these devices are powered when the ignition switch is in the on position.
A white wire is attached to one end of the fuse in the box (usually the top one) providing the power, and the green wires are connected to the other end of the fuse.
If you have an ohmmeter, take the fuse out and verify continuity (closed circuit)
Reinsert fuse.
If you have a voltmeter or 12 volt test light....Check that you have voltage on the white wire side of the fuse.
Then check if you have voltage on the green wire side of the fuse.
If all that checks out, text again and someone will help you.
If the tests are beyond your pay scale, try to get a friend who is familiar with such stuff.
Cheers and good luck.
Scott in CA

spridgettr Avatar
spridgettr William Kern
Pittsburgh, PA, USA   USA
If you have confirmed fuses are all good.....t and stop.....ground wires in boot, notorious for poor connection, remove the panels on each side, clean, crimp or replace, and a little dielectric grease. temp and fuel both run off volt stabilizer on speedo, start there to see if power is good, think it a gr/wh wire



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-01-15 10:40 PM by spridgettr.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

Attachments:
wiring-diagram-as-well-triumph-on-1971-triumph-tr6-wiring-diagram-6487603.jpeg    29 KB
wiring-diagram-as-well-triumph-on-1971-triumph-tr6-wiring-diagram-6487603.jpeg

LGMTR6 Avatar
LGMTR6 Larry Miceli
Mount Dora, FL, USA   USA
1952 MG TD
1954 MG TF 1500
1958 Triumph TR3A
1967 MG MGB GT    & more
First, I absolutely agree, get the Dan Masters book. It's worth it's weight in gold for any British car owner.
As far as your issues, there is way too much wrong all at once for it not to be related unless you've had some issues all along. If it all went out at once, then there's something in common. Fuel and temp can be the voltage stabilizer but where you also have brake and turn signals out! I'd suspect either fuse block or ignition switch. All the items mentioned require the ignition switch to be in the on position to get power. Shouldn't be too difficult to track down with a multi meter.



Larry Miceli
Mount Dora, Florida

52 MG TD (restored)
54 MG TF 1500 (project)
56 Triumph TR3 (project)
67 MGB GT (restored)
68 MGC GT (nice driver)
68 Triumph TR 250 (nice driver)
71 Triumph Stag (driver)
73 Triumph Stag (project)
74 Triumph TR6 (restored)

I've just never really figured out the "sell one when you get another" part of it all...

cal1973 Avatar
cal1973 John M
Glendora, CA, USA   USA
Thanks for the information. I'll check the items you all mentioned. If it's not one thing, it's another.

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
Start by running over to Horrible Freight for a DMM, test light, and test leads. Got to have the right tools, and all that should be under $20.

I suggest a "divide and conquer" approach, for example I would probably start at the green wire coming off the fuse block. If you find 12v there (with the key on), the problem is between there and all the devices that don't work. But if not, the problem is between there and the ignition switch (assuming that anything else works, like the engine will run).

Note that fuses can fail and still look good, or not make good contact with the holder, etc. Also, a DMM (voltmeter) can be fooled by a bad connection, so it's best to have a load on the circuit when checking voltage. The test light forms a (small) load itself, so is less likely to "lie" to you.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-01-16 11:41 AM by TR3driver.

Mechanicsville, VA, USA   USA
I had the same problem with my 74. I could pull the fuse and test it and it was "good". I would put it back in the fuse holder and I would be good for awhile, but then it would lose power when I used the turn signal. This went on for some time happening probably 6 more times. I even moved the circuit to a spare fuse holder but the problem persisted. The last time I pulled the fuse I noticed the metal end cap was a little loose. I was able to pull it straight off of the glass tube. The solder connection was not a solid connection. It would make good electrical connection until it got warm from an increased load and then disconnect. It was a very rewarding moment when I discovered and fixed this problem. Hopefully yours will be as simple of a fix.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
gina98776 kenneth taylor
Oxford, CT, USA   USA
Check the voltage regulator that is attached to the upper back of your speedometer.Sounds like that is the problem as I had the same thing happen to me.

cal1973 Avatar
cal1973 John M
Glendora, CA, USA   USA
Yes, I thought about the voltage regulator. It's a bitch to get to. I took the drivers seat out so I could lay flat and it's still going to be difficult. I may pull the dash out just so much to reach it. Thanks for your suggestion.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
You should be able to get the speedometer out without too much effort...In fact both it and the tach have to be removed before you can tilt the dash to the 'service position'.

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
The voltage stabilizer on the back of the speedo only supplies power to the temp and fuel gauges. The only way it could affect the turn signals and wipers would be if it shorted and blew the fuse; which would also disable the wipers and heater. And while not impossible, they very rarely short out.

IMO it makes a whole lot more sense to at least find out for sure the fuse is blown before starting to blindly replace components.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

spridgettr Avatar
spridgettr William Kern
Pittsburgh, PA, USA   USA
as stated all these run off the ignition switch, as you can see in the diagram i posted. don't see where you mention if wipers and washer motor work ? if those are out too I'd suspect the ignition switch is faulty. Again confirm fuses are good. All are easy to check with circuit tester aka idiot light.

cal1973 Avatar
cal1973 John M
Glendora, CA, USA   USA
Hello everyone,
Thanks to all who gave me suggestions on how to fix my electrical problem. After a few hours of testing, removing the drivers seat, following every wire and checking every connection (no easy feat), I finally found the culprit. Inside the fuse box, there was a corroded terminal that tested good for continuity but weak when tested with a test light. I will replace the whole fuse box and that, my friends, will solve this problem. Needless to say, I have learned by doing. Thanks again to all who posted.

trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
Save yourself some bucks and time. Get a small wire brush or sand paper and put it between the terminals on each side to clean
and the little spades also. Do all fuse holders, both sides.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-02-17 08:09 PM by trrdster.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

To add your reply, or post your own questions




Registration is FREE and takes less than a minute!


Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster





Join The Club

Sign in to ask questions, share photos, and access all website features

Your Cars

1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500

Text Size

Larger Smaller
Reset Save

Sponsor Links