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Hazards and Right turn signals not working-Help

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tr6janet Janet P
San Diego, CA, USA   USA
I'm new to the forum and trying to get my 1969 TR6 back on the road after 15+ years in the garage. Noticed today the my left front and rear turn signals aren't working. The hazard lights also aren't working, but the right front and rear turn signals work normally. The bulbs are working when I switch them out.

If I understand correctly, the Hazard switch sends power to the flasher unit which interrupts the current going to the turn signal switch on the steering column. If my right turn signals are working, then that tells me that the hazard switch is getting power and the flasher unit is getting power, but it's not getting to the left turn signals. What is my next step in tracking down the source of the problem? Dive into the steering column and dash to look at the hazard switch and turn signal switch?

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JFB Joseph Byrd
Dunn, NC, USA   USA
here is a condensed wiring of just the turn/hazard. I just had a flaky problem with my 73 and it just "went away"

The turn and hazard use different 12v supply through different fuses so that is one item to check. The hazard fuse also supplies the horn so that is a way to check it.

The hazard has its own flasher and a relay that ties in with the turn signal wiring



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-12-17 08:48 PM by JFB.


Attachments:
69 turn signals r1.jpg    26.3 KB
69 turn signals r1.jpg

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
I would start looking at the turn signal problem; save the hazards for later. Since the right side works, the turn side of the hazard switch must be OK. Most likely, IMO, it's the turn switch itself, but I would first get a test light onto the GR wire at some point to make sure you don't have a double lamp failure. (The bulbholders themselves sometimes fail.) If there is no juice on GR (with the ignition and turn switch on), pull the turn switch out and try temporarily connecting a jumper across it. If that makes the LH turns signals work, obviously it's the switch.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

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tapkaJohnD Avatar
tapkaJohnD John Davies
Lancaster, Lancashire, UK   GBR
A common problem is poor earthing.
Triumph expected the earth to be through the body of the light fittings, the lamp cluster, and the bodywork, but age and corrosion often breaks that circuit.
Try a jumper lead from the indicators that dont work to some known good earth point on the body, or right back to the battery.
If that gets them working then you know what the probelm is and can work from there.
A separate earth wire may be the best solution.

John

tr6janet Janet P
San Diego, CA, USA   USA
Wow, you guys are quick. Thank you for the wiring diagram and suggestions for where to start. I'll test the wires and ground as you've all suggested before I remove the switch.

jtmjbda Jeff Chappell
Herriman, UT, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "Mrs Thatcher"
When I got my TR and not much worked, everyone said "clean, clean, clean." So I wore out about half dozen Dremel wire wheels, some electrical contact cleaner, installed separate ground wires at the taillights, and shazam, stuff started working! If you haven't polished all those spade connectors and the male parts of the bullet connectors, here's my indorsement of doing that simple operation.
Good luck and Merry Christmas!
Jeff

SteveKJR Steve KJR
Stockbridge, GA, USA   USA
One of the big problems with the switches and turn signals is corrosion. I removed all the switches and took them apart to clean them. Before you do anything I would follow the power through the switch to see if in fact you are getting power to the component that is not working. I had a rear tail light that was getting power but wouldn't light up. Come to find out the ground on the side of the holder that comes in contact with the bulb was not making contact. Ended up soldering the contacts on the plug together so that it would bridge the gap between the brass strip and the wire terminal ground strip.

If you check and don't find power going through the faulty component then in all likely hood there is corossion inside the switch They all have brass contacts so there is a sure bet they are corroded.

SteveKJR

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tr6janet Janet P
San Diego, CA, USA   USA
Thank you everyone. I cleaned the contacts and checked the wiring to find where I was losing power. The problem seemed to be between the switch and bulbs. Jumped over the wires and the turn signals still didn't work, so it looked like the switch wasn't the problem. Went under the dash to find the barrel connectors to clean them and found that one of the connectors had pulled loose. Put it back together and I have working turn signals! Easy, inexpensive fix after hours spent chasing it down. Lesson confirmed - look for the obvious problems first!

rjc157 Avatar
rjc157 ralph c
pearl river, NY, USA   USA
You never said if the hazards are working now also be prepared to replace all the rubber on the car especially the brake line hoses they tend to rot if they were never changed just do it also the calipers might be frozen good luck

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tr6janet Janet P
San Diego, CA, USA   USA
Hazard switch is definitely faulty, but at least it's faulty in the "on" position for the turn signals. I'll tackle the hazard switch later. Right now it's on to replacing the clutch hydraulics. The clutch went to the floor and when I opened the master cylinder, it was pure crystals. And yes, Ralph, the left caliper was frozen. That was the first job tackled - replacing the calipers, hoses, resurfacing the drums, etc. Brakes should be good to go now. Little by little, the car is closer to getting on the road again!

trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
Janet, that hazard switch. if the old 4 prong one on the back is one of the rare parts for the '69 and hard to find. It is unique, so be very careful.
They can be rebuilt, which is mainly just cleaning it. A couple of problems. Very brittle, so taking it apart without breaking the case will be a challenge.
The top rocker part has a hole containing a spring that pushes on a small plastic folk, that pushes a little dumb bell looking piece of cooper from one end to the other.
Using a small artist paint brush and some WD40, clean out the inside and wash off the dumb bell. and the contacts. Put it back and check the connections at the top and bottom for continuity.
Be sure and photo the wires, so you can put them back correctly.

The switch comes apart by prying it at the top to get the small plastic tits out of the case.
Before doing all this, shoot some contact cleaner (WD40) or such down the crack and fill it up and shake the heck out of it, a couple of time, this just might clean up enough to work for a long time.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-12-26 07:21 PM by trrdster.

rjc157 Avatar
rjc157 ralph c
pearl river, NY, USA   USA
Just replace the clutch hose take the slave cylinder out and clean it I would just rebuild it and change the rear brake hoses and clean the wheel cylinder don't take for granted that they work flush the lines to make sure your working with new fluid

tr6janet Janet P
San Diego, CA, USA   USA
Thank you, Wayne. I put the repair of the hazard switch on the back burner mostly because I didn't want to tackle removing the tach and speedometer right now and because I saw the price of a replacement switch on Moss! It seems like each time I venture to do a simple job, I discover/tear/break something new and the job becomes much larger and longer (I'm sure no one else experiences that). I'll follow your instructions and treat my switch with the utmost of care, so I can hopefully clean and rebuild it without having to replace it.

Ralph, I decided last week to replace the whole hydraulic system. Received the parts on Saturday. Right now, I'm up against a time crunch because I'm moving at the end of January and would like to drive the car to my next home rather than have it towed. It will be faster to put in a whole new system. For rear brakes, the left side gave me some problems, but after cleaning the cylinder and resurfacing the drum, all is well. Changed lines and flushed both sides.

Thanks for all the help!

trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
Well done, you did the right thing.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

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